Clutch replacement

[dshanks]

Assuming you have the original flywheel and bellhousing (and you don't have an original LT-1), you need the 10.4" clutch; your flywheel doesn't have the holes drilled for the 11" clutch. The 11" clutch requires a 14" 168-tooth flywheel (and a different starter), and that flywheel won't fit in your bellhousing.

At the time I wrote this, I didnt know that the clutch was dependant on the flywheel size, not the transmission. Since then, I spoke to my engine builder, and he said that the flywheel on my new motor can use either a 10.4" or an 11" clutch, so I assume its the larger flywheel with the holes. Right now I have the stock setup, will my starter fit an 11" flywheel? I dont want to replace the starter if I dont have to, and I know the original flywheel needs work or replaced, what should I do?
Replace the new flywheel on the new motor with ANOTHER new flywheel, replace the starter, or will my starter work fine with the new 11" flywheel?

 

[JohnZ]

The key issues are flywheel size and which bellhousing you have. If you have a 14"-diameter flywheel with 168 teeth and a casting #3899621 bellhousing, you can use an 11" clutch, or a 10.4" clutch if the flywheel is double-drilled. If you have a 12-3/4"-dia. flywheel with 153 teeth and a casting #3858403 bellhousing, 10.4" is as big as you can go with a clutch, as the larger flywheel won't fit in that bellhousing.

 

[GTR1999]

I used a Hays 11" on our 75 L-82 and like it. One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the fact the Centerforce clutches create a differnt geometry with the linkage. They are not a direct bolt in,you have to use an adjustable ball stud a lot of the time. Some guys have used different Z bars to get the adjustment,others have fab their own. Regardless check into this before you finish the job and find there is no clutch pedal.
Last week I had to adjust the linkage on a 63 SWC because the resto shop used a centerforce and had the the pedal set with no free play at all. This wasn't a clutch linkage issue because they addressed that, I think it was more of a "get the money and get the car out" rush.
Gary

 

[handya]

Seeing that you have done a clutch replacement on your 69, maybe you could give me some advice. Have a 77, 350, 4 speed. I have replaced clutches 50 years ago on 55 chevy, but I have myself in a fix right now. I decided that I could do a clutch job. Loosened everything, removed transmission hanger bracket, got transmission moved back, but there is not enough room to drop the bell housing past the presure plate. Bell housing hits firewall on both top corners. All I need is about on inch more to clear the presure plate. Thought I would try jacking body, but that didn't help at all. Only other thing I can think of is to loosen motot mounts and somehow try to move the motor forward a pinch. Any adivce it welcomed....l

 

[glen242]

I used a Hays 11" on our 75 L-82 and like it. One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the fact the Centerforce clutches create a differnt geometry with the linkage. They are not a direct bolt in,you have to use an adjustable ball stud a lot of the time. Some guys have used different Z bars to get the adjustment,others have fab their own. Regardless check into this before you finish the job and find there is no clutch pedal.
Last week I had to adjust the linkage on a 63 SWC because the resto shop used a centerforce and had the the pedal set with no free play at all. This wasn't a clutch linkage issue because they addressed that, I think it was more of a "get the money and get the car out" rush.
Gary

Centerforce outlines dimensions to check, before installing their clutch. They give you a dimension from the end of the fork ball to flywheel? I forget, but if these dimensions are within Centerforces range, there is no problems.

My stock fork ball dimension was ok, as was the bell housing runout. Installed the Centerforce II PP and disk without a problem. The flywheel had been trued up/cut 0.020. This was using my stock '76 L-48 flywheel, bell housing and linkage.

 

[fine69]

It looks like I have to change my clutch after installing my new 3.36 rear end. What would you recommend?
OEM?
Aftermarket?
Hayes?
Luk?
Center Force?
This is one job that I have already done, and after this time....I don't want to do it again.
Thanks for your imput.
Rick

Rick

I replaced mine with a Luk clutch, and also replaced the shifter with a Hurst Corvette style version (with the black chrome knob). I love it... shifting is nice and tight, and the clutch has a nice grab.

Keep in mind the if you go with the Luk, you'll have to use a longer stud with the clutch fork. Luk offers this stud - but none of the documents I received in the packaging alerted me to it, and I had to remove my tranny from the engine again to replace it!! Don't make my mistake.

Hope helpful....

Ralph

 

[ahoover]

Rick,

The Centerforce Dual Friction is the best of both worlds. Great for comfort and holding power. It's probably overkill for most stree applications but I've been using them for almost 10 years in various project cars after trying Hayes and others. No comparison for a good street/strip capable clutch and they can take abuse. Just to be safe, I would replace the fork and check the front bearing retainer while you have it apart.