Clutch System Bleeding Problem

[BigRed]

Well I got that cap in and its very nice. Except it didn't fix my problems. I put it on and there was NO change in pressure therefore I still can't shift.

SO I got creative and took apart the master cylinder (Reserve off, Off firewall, Connector line off) and I heard a sucking in breathing sound. Hmm

So I clean everything out and off (Trying not to notice the little globs of black gooey crap) and I put everything back together.

Now I got NO pressure ok got air in the system SO I go under the car and find the bleed valve on the slave undo it and with a friend pumpin the clutch for me I hook my line up into my coke bottle half full of new DOT 3. Barely anything is going on so I abandon ship and pull off the line

..............BLACK GOOEY CRAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OH boy Im thinking someone has got the wrong DOT fluid in there and its eating my rubber line. And thats why I had no pressure before I started all this. It was because the line was plugged!

So Im asking HOW do I COMPLETLY remove the old fluid from the system and change it with new. AND how do I bleed it so I have pressure back so I can press in the cluch.

Its on the street on my parents house and I about 1 hair away from calling a flat bed and hauling my car to the shop.

MAYDAY!

ad ;help ;help ;help

 

[vigman]

So are the seals

OK?

and I assume you did the slave cylinder like the master?

I'll bet it's the old cap ( the black gooey stuff )

and not the line... the TRICK to bleeding the clutch slave is removing it and tilting it so the bleeder valve is the high point of the slave ( air bubbles get trapped when it's in the bolted position)

I'm here from you man!

EH!

Vig!

 

[JonM]

As a note...I would run about a 1/2 bottle through it to clean it out...then finish off bleading as mentioned above.

 

[BigRed]

Well today I was underneath the Vette for the majority of the day due to a stupid mistake made by Moi!

I removed the slave cylinder NP
I undid bleed screw so I can turn it with my fingers NP
I proceeded to pump (FOR A LONG TIME) new fluid through it NP


Still not working because I wasn't using the contents of my skull,

When I removed the slave cylinder to check it for leaks I pulled out the plunger (Piston) and checked the seals FINE but when I put it back in I shoved it all the way down.......(This cost me 3 hours more of pumping to get pressure that wasn't gonna come)

So I call my mechanic and he explains what I did wrong. SO I remove the slave for the second time pull the plunger back to the start point, bench bleed, then reinstall the thing.

(Now Ive bleed the system 3 times at this point Im tired and aggrovated not to mention my Wife who is still cranky at me on the pedal pumpin LOL)

Afte hooking the line up I QUICKLY bleed it (cause Im wore out) install to the housing and BANG got pressure galore, problem is I got TO much pressure and the pedal feels like a spring (An AIR spring)

But at least the car is moblie Ive done my job LOL Tommorrow Ive going to use 2nd gear and OD to get to my mechanics for another bleed.

I would do it myself but If I have to crawl under this car in the dirt again Im gonna freak!

But thanks alot guys (Vigman) for helping me I accomplished my goal and found I wasn't requiring extra parts just some extra know how.

:L :crazy

 

[vigman]

Learn by doing

It's the only way...

How can you have TO MUCH pressure

Where does the clutch start to dis engage?

Or maybe you were used to a bad pedal all this time?


Vig!

 

[BigRed]

Well its not the amount of pressure thats bothering me its the type I guess. Its very springy and I do know theres pbly alot of air still trapped. I still can BARELY shift the gears but at least I can for the drive tommorrow.

Ive got about 2-3 inchs of nothing before the pedal acutates the master I think this is normal for the slack in the pedal linkages.

For next time I know EXACTLY how to do this and the procedures/ little tricks to make this a easier problem to solve. But learning beat me up LOL I was fighting this thing for at least 5 hours ROFL

Actually my mechanic said on the phone he even hates doing this on clutches.

Oh well mission accomplished Im moblie

 

[vigman]

2-3" before you....

A) Can feel back tension?
B) The Clutch starts disengaging?

The free play should be close to nil... ( 1/2 inch ) before you"feel" resistance
and another 3-4 inches of pedal travel when your FULLY disengaged ( which should put you to the floor).

The Piston ( in the slave ) will move about an inch..


Sumptin is still fishy...

You SHOULD be able to have the clutch FULLY in and NO problems shifting between 1st & Reverse.

What color has the fluid in the rez turned?

And you did bleed into a bottle with a good hose RIGHT?


Vig!

 

[BigRed]

Oh ya the fluid is fine now all to gook is gone. I think I may have a problem with my pedal linkages because when my clutch pedal is idle it is further out than my brake. When I press it down as it lines up with the brake pedal the clutch engauges

This is not a big deal I can just do some diving and contruct or repair a stopper plate for the clutch pedal.

Today I go in for my "bleed" but we'll see if I do it or not Im sicker than a dog from yesterdays on the ashphalt routine.