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Code 14 Have Questions!

Mad-Mic

Gone but not forgotten
Joined
Feb 12, 2002
Messages
1,853
Location
Annapolis Maryland
Corvette
1987 Redskin Red Coupe
ok fella's good news no code 36 after i changed the relays!

bad news it threw a code 14. i have a few questions.

has anyone experienced this? the information i have is from a pdf file that i downloaded only half the codes before it went down :mad but i had code 14 and what is says is it's a low coolant temp short or bad ecm.

what did you do to fix it?
where is the sensor so i can back track?
how do i check CKT 410?
lastly how much for a new ECM for an 87 A4?

anything else you can share i'd greatly appreciate it!



 
Mic, if I remember correctly, sometimes the sensor in the radiator will give a false reading, causing a code to be thrown. I forget which code, could be 14 I guess.

The solution? I forget that too. :o

You need a computer? I've got two: a stock '87 and a later, speed density computer, along with my modified chips, although they'd do you no good I'd imagine. Let me know if you want the computer (it cost me around a buck and a quarter).
 
Ken said:
Mic, if I remember correctly, sometimes the sensor in the radiator will give a false reading, causing a code to be thrown. I forget which code, could be 14 I guess.

The solution? I forget that too. :o

hehe thanks ken mucho help ;LOL the pdf file i got said either 1 of 2 things. short in the sensor and or wire or a bad ecm :(
 
Mic,

I can send you the two pages from my 88 service manual for a code 14. They're too large to post as thumbnails here....

Len:w
 
nyernga said:
Mic,

I can send you the two pages from my 88 service manual for a code 14. They're too large to post as thumbnails here....

Len

heya Len that would be Great Bro! i need to get this fixed i'm already late on emissions and the car goes to the paint and body shop hopefully this week.

email me at Mad-Mic@comcast.net

Thanks!
Mic
:w
 
Mad-Mic said:
heya Len that would be Great Bro! i need to get this fixed i'm already late on emissions and the car goes to the paint and body shop hopefully this week.

email me at Mad-Mic@comcast.net

Thanks!
Mic
:w

headed your way shortly bro...:)
 
The level sensor is located on the right (passenger) side of the radiator. It's notorious for givin' ya troubles. :(
 
Yeah Ken is right when I priced one out it was around 150 with turning my old one in. Does your car even run? I mean if the ECM was bad, would the car even run?
 
Vettefan87 said:
Yeah Ken is right when I priced one out it was around 150 with turning my old one in. Does your car even run? I mean if the ECM was bad, would the car even run?

runs strong once it gets warmed up. cold start is very hard. actually gotta crack the throttle about a 1/4 inch. i think that is from the IAC needing cleaning but i'm not real sure.

once i get this code fix i'm also gonna clean and reset the IAC along with resetting the TPS sensor.

i hope i can clear these codes and get this fixed as i want to fix this before i do a 388 stroker i got lined up with a cam, heads, mini ram setup :D

car goes in body shop next week for paint and a crack on the rear 1/4 panel due to a small fender bender. :( after it gets fixed and painted new stuff goes in. either the 388 with heads, intake, and cam, or just stock 350 with 75k miles with heads, intake, cam, with full rebuild and 1.6 roller rockers with a 100+ shot of nitrous.
 
The CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) is screwed into the front edge of the intake manifold more towards the passenger side.

It has a two wire connector. Yellow wire and a Black wire.
The Black wire is ground and the Yellow wire receives about 5 volts DC from the ECM.

The resistance of the sensor varies with the engine temperature. In your case Code 14 indicates the engine temp. is over 266F for over 3 seconds.

Here is a list of the resistance of the sensor at different temps.

210F 185 ohms
160F 450 ohms
100F 1.8K ohms
70F 3.4K ohms
40F 7.5K ohms
20F 13.5K ohms
0F 25K ohms
-40F 100.7K ohms

With the plug disconnected, measure across the sensor and see what the resistance is and compare it to the chart.

You can also with the igniton on (engine not running) connector attached to the sensor, measure the voltage at the yellow wire to ground when the engine temp. is around 185F to 203F the voltage measured should be around 1.5 to 2 volts DC.
 
are these actual coolant temps? i know the car isn't running 266 degrees. i runs 160 when warmed up due to a 160 tstat.

thanks for the info!

Mic

ecss said:
The CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) is screwed into the front edge of the intake manifold more towards the passenger side.

It has a two wire connector. Yellow wire and a Black wire.
The Black wire is ground and the Yellow wire receives about 5 volts DC from the ECM.

The resistance of the sensor varies with the engine temperature. In your case Code 14 indicates the engine temp. is over 266F for over 3 seconds.

Here is a list of the resistance of the sensor at different temps.

210F 185 ohms
160F 450 ohms
100F 1.8K ohms
70F 3.4K ohms
40F 7.5K ohms
20F 13.5K ohms
0F 25K ohms
-40F 100.7K ohms

With the plug disconnected, measure across the sensor and see what the resistance is and compare it to the chart.

You can also with the igniton on (engine not running) connector attached to the sensor, measure the voltage at the yellow wire to ground when the engine temp. is around 185F to 203F the voltage measured should be around 1.5 to 2 volts DC.
 
Mad-Mic said:
it runs 160 when warmed up due to a 160 tstat.
Really? Mine's a 180 and it never gets that low (unless parked).

I have the '87 manuals, if you need more. I just can't get to them at the moment, but it seems you have a lot to go on, so far.

Man, UR brave if you intend to have the new motor put in AFTER paint!

I would bet on the wire or sensor before a bad ECM.
 
Is this a hard failure? If you disconnect the battery to clear the code, are you saying the code sets again?

Where are you located?

I live in Annapolis around Forest Drive and Spa Rd.

I have Diacom software. It can display what voltage/temperature the ECM is receiving from the CTS

Example:

First verify you have around 5 volts on the Yellow wire to ground. If that checks out, with the connector disconnected at the CTS, place a 1.8K resistor in series from the yellow wire to ground, the ECM should see around 100F. If it doesn't the ECM is bad. If it does, the CTS is bad.

PM me with contact info. if you want some assistance.
 
Mad-Mic said:
i runs 160 when warmed up due to a 160 tstat.

So does mine. If I am cruising on the highway it will never get above 160, I have had it out when its been about 30 degrees out and the thermostat never even opened it stayed at about 157. And if I am stopped it never gets above 175 which is when the fan kicks on. My oil temps are in the same region.
 
ECSS,

thanks man i could use the help :)

contact info sent! i'm right behind earleigh heights fire hall off ritchie hwy.

Mic


ecss said:
Is this a hard failure? If you disconnect the battery to clear the code, are you saying the code sets again?

Where are you located?

I live in Annapolis around Forest Drive and Spa Rd.

I have Diacom software. It can display what voltage/temperature the ECM is receiving from the CTS

Example:

First verify you have around 5 volts on the Yellow wire to ground. If that checks out, with the connector disconnected at the CTS, place a 1.8K resistor in series from the yellow wire to ground, the ECM should see around 100F. If it doesn't the ECM is bad. If it does, the CTS is bad.

PM me with contact info. if you want some assistance.
 

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