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Code 42 (Electronic Spark timing)

  • Thread starter Thread starter 3sacrwd
  • Start date Start date
3

3sacrwd

Guest
Leaving work the other day, my car just suddenly died. No warnings or anything...I pulled it over and let it sit for about 30 seconds. After that it started and ran fine for a few days, no codes were set. Today coming to work, it happenend again, I let it sit for about 30 seconds and it started and ran normally the rest of the way....This time it did set a code 42 (Electronic Spark Timing)

Any ideas where I should start to troubleshoot??? I changed my plugs out 2 weeks ago, but did not really mess with the ignition control module or the distributor cap.
 
I would be looking at the pickup coil in the distributor and the ignition module. The pickup coil acts as a "crank sensor" in older TPI motors and an intermittent failure can cause the problem you have noted. In addition. a failing spark module can do the same and either way I would expect it to get worse not better. Also, check the wiring to the distributor to make sure the connections and integrety of the wiring is good. If you need more specific info let me know.


Taz

:Steer
 
Another possibility is the fuel pump....as it sits in the tank it is cooled by the gas covering it. Ken has left a post about just that above. What happens is that as the pump ages it does not take much for it to seize up when it gets warm...stopping and sitting lets it cool off...then you run for a while or a day and it will continue to happen. One thing you could do is hook up a pressure guage to the fuel rail and thread the hose up to the wipers and let it show while you drive, when it quits you will be able to see if you have lost pressure.
Also look at the small module on the passenger side near the fan blower...there you will find the ESC (electronic spark controller) mine showed an intermittent fault and would also throw the dcode, I found it to be a loose and dirty connector. They fill it with grease to keep the water out of it. Clean it and ecoat with grease and that should do it. Most of the dealers have a module checker...just a thought....take care.
 
First thing I thought of was the fuel pump. My tank was almost full of gas both times. I actually took the pump out to look at it. It looked in good shape, the strainer was in very good shape as well. I jumpered the OBDI pins to run the pump, and it seemed to run OK. I was hoping that this was a one time only 'hiccup", but alas, that was not to be. I will pull my ESC and look at it tonight.....I will probably have to go buy a fuel pressure guage this weekend.
THanks for the replies.
 
Pulled my ESC off and sprayed with Electronics cleaner, didn't help. I decided that I may as well pull my Distributor cap off and take a look. It was pretty bad...The rotor was physically destroyed, with notches cut into it...the brass pin was all beat up and had a scrapes and such on that as well. 2 of my Spark plug wires and most of the pins on my dist. cap were corroded. I was surprised that my car ran as good as it did, and not leave me stranded. I replaced the Cap, Rotor and bought a new Accel HEI Coil. I bought new wires as well, but the Accel wires will not be in until next week.....Figured I may as well do it all since I am here anyway.

I thought I was in trouble after I got it all back together, when I started it up and it did not run very smooth.....I turned it back off and heard a "clicking" noise from the IAC with the car turned on, but not started....If I unplugged the IAC the noise would stop...I figured I would have to pull my throttle body off to work on that now.....but I went into the car to check for codes, and discovered that I had left the paperclip in the OBDI ports.....!!!!oopppppsss, I took it out and it started and ran much, much better!.....Sorry for the long post, but I always try to finish each post with the results, in case anyone else runs into the same situation.....Thanks for all the help.
 

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