Code help

[titan81]

I have been unable to get the pesky check engine light to go out
I get codes 13, 23, 44

o2 sensor, MC sol, and running lean?
I have no idea where to start after the o2 sensor cuz its okay?
I had a vaccum hose off for a while and I think that caused the issue
but I unplugged the battery and the ecm still has codes in it?

And ideas, or similar problems

thanks

titan

 

[titan81]

Anyone?

 

[Hib Halverson]

You need to get a service manual for an 81 then follow the diagnostic tables and other information. In many cases, what's in the book will help you solve those trouble codes.

 

[titan81]

already have it

heres the deal
Vaccum hose was off, and I didnt notice, put it back on and try'd to clear the ecm of trouble codes... Those are the ones it gives

MC is open or grounded, and its running lean....I replaced o2 sensor
so I cant figure out how to clear the emc??? Or is it another problem...
I assumed the hose caused the 44 code and running lean no?

 

[Yoda]

titan,

How long did you leave the battery disconnected? For some reason I remember reading or hearing to leave the positive post disconnected for at least 15 minutes to clear, and if that doesn't work then flash the positive post and let it sit another 15 minutes without power, to erase codes.

I just broke out my GM Shop Manual:
Clearing Trouble Code Memory
**The trouble code memory is fed a continuous 12 volts even with key in "OFF" position. After a fault has been corrected, it will be necessary to remove this voltage for 10 seconds to clear any stored codes. Voltage can be removed by removing the "ECM" fuse.**

Sounds like you already have tried the book technique... maybe the flash and wait a few minutes may work :confused

Bud

 

[titan81]

thanks bud
I'll see what happens

 

[Rudzvetz]

Get a piece of real small steel tubing, maybe 1/8", probably 2" long and start the car then gently drop the tubing down the center hole above the M/C solenoid. If the solenoid is physically working you will see the tubing bounce up and down as the sol. pulls the primaries up and down. You shoudl also get hooked into the O2 sensor wiring (the black wire from the sensor) and hook a digital volt meter up to it. Set it on mV and watch to see that you have somewhere in that 400-800 range once it is running warm. Or somewhere in the .4-.8 volt range. O2 sensors read between .1 and 1.0 volts on the black wire when they are warm. See what you get there. I would say either a bad O2 sensor or wiring to it, or a bad M/C sol. or wiring to it. If I had to guess I would say O2 sensor.


-Justin

 

[titan81]

Get a piece of real small steel tubing, maybe 1/8", probably 2" long and start the car then gently drop the tubing down the center hole above the M/C solenoid. If the solenoid is physically working you will see the tubing bounce up and down as the sol. pulls the primaries up and down. You shoudl also get hooked into the O2 sensor wiring (the black wire from the sensor) and hook a digital volt meter up to it. Set it on mV and watch to see that you have somewhere in that 400-800 range once it is running warm. Or somewhere in the .4-.8 volt range. O2 sensors read between .1 and 1.0 volts on the black wire when they are warm. See what you get there. I would say either a bad O2 sensor or wiring to it, or a bad M/C sol. or wiring to it. If I had to guess I would say O2 sensor.


-Justin

HHHMMM
that wiring could be at fault I will check for and also thanks for the steel tube idea I'll cut some at work tomorrow