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coolant fan runs all the time

ALG

Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2012
Messages
7
Location
Kentucky
Corvette
1986 Convertible Bright Red
I have a 1986 convertible. I removed the air pump and the A/C. Now the fan runs all the time. It worked perfectly prior to removing this stuff. I was told to jumper the 3 plugs i disconnected by the evaporator. One has a green w/white stripe and black wires, one had solid green and blacks wires and the small plug has 2 black wires. I jumpered them one at a time, 2 at a time and all three and fan continued to run.

Any ideas on what to do to have fan come on when temp is around 225 like it used to?

Thanks,
 
I was told to jumper the 3 plugs i disconnected by the evaporator. One has a green w/white stripe and black wires, one had solid green and blacks wires and the small plug has 2 black wires.

Any ideas on what to do to have fan come on when temp is around 225 like it used to?

Take a piece of wire and ground the Dark Green wire
to the negative battery terminal. It's possible if you
removed any of the wire harness the Black wire is
no longer grounded. The Dark Green wire goes to
pin D11 of the ECM.

The ECM also uses the engine coolant temperature
sensor mounted in the front of the intake manifold to
turn the fan on when the temperature reaches around
228F.

86acfan_zpse9f72ab5.jpg
 
Thanks. I will try this tomorrow night. If I ground the dark green wire i take it that when i start the car the fan will not come on until the temp reaches about 225?

Thanks again. I will let you know tomorrow night.
 
I did like you said and the fan motor did not shut off. I run a wire from the negative side of the battery.

So i did it to the other plugs too with same results.

Any other checks i can do?

Wonder how long the fan motor will last if it runs all the time?

Thanks
 
I did like you said and the fan motor did not shut off. I run a wire from the negative side of the battery.

So i did it to the other plugs too with same results.

Any other checks i can do?

When you removed the AC hardware did you physically remove any of the wiring harness?

Have you verified no codes are set by grounding
pin A and B on the diag. connector, turn the
ignition On and look at the Service Engine Soon indicator. Only 12 should blink three times and any codes three times if there are any then 12 three times indicating the end of the sequence.

Example code 12
Blink pause Blink, Blink long pause between
codes.

If any codes are set, disconnect the negative battery terminal for at least 10 seconds to clear any codes. Ground the Dark Green wire again and see what happens.
 
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I disconnected the neg battery. I took the tube i took off when i removed the a/c and plugged in the 2 plugs and plugged in the other plug to evaporater. I reconnected the battery and let run 10 minutes. Fan still came on immediately and did not shut off. Temp got to 188.

What am i doing wrong. There was no damage to the witring harness.

What now? Should i jumper the plug that was in the compressor?

Thanks,
 
1) Is this the C60 manual ac or C68 auto climate control?

2) You are saying the radiator fan motor
runs all the time and you don't mean the
blower motor?

3) If it's the radiator fan does the fan
run when you turn on the ignition or
does the engine need to be started?

Verify no one has installed a manual fan
switch.

Look at the fan relay which is mounted on the
back side of the driver side wheel well housing
almost below the front of the brake master
cylinder. At the relay socket is a Red which is 12 volts
from a fusible link, a Black/Red wire which goes
to the fan motor, a Dark Blue wire 12 volts for the
primary relay coil and a Dark Green/White wire
which the ECM grounds to turn the relay on.

Verify no wires are spliced into the Dark Green/White
wire.
 
C60 manual, cooling fan behind radiator, engine needs to be started, no manual fan switch, worked perfect before i took out the a/c, all wires at fan relay look ok, i haven't been doing anything around this area.

Any ideas?

Thanks
 
If you plugged the 3 connectors back in and the fan
still comes on that makes no sense.

It could be the Dark Green wire is not making connection with pin D11 of the ECM.

You could strip some of the insulation off of the Dark
Green wire and connect a wire to it and the negative
battery terminal and see if that works.

Other wise you need to ohm out the Dark Green
wire to the ECM connector pin D11. There must
be a break in the connection.
 
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Sorry if i sound stupid, but the dark grren wire you are talking about is the one of the 3 plugs that has the solid green wire? One of the plugs has a green wire with a white stripe and the other has the solid green wire. This is the one you are talking about?

Thanks again
 
Sorry if i sound stupid, but the dark grren wire you are talking about is the one of the 3 plugs that has the solid green wire? One of the plugs has a green wire with a white stripe and the other has the solid green wire. This is the one you are talking about?

The schematics show 3 connectors.
1) High pressure cut out switch is two Black wires.
Switch opens when AC pressure reaches 430psi.

2) Low pressure cycling switch (evaporator tube)
DarkGreen/White wire and a Black wire.

3) High pressure fan switch. (for some unknown reason
the manual shows it as high pressure switch). Other
manuals call it a fan switch. Switch opens at 233 psi
and closes when pressure is below 180 psi. When the switch is closed a ground is placed on pin D11 of the ECM. When
the switch opens the ECM responds by turning on the radiator fan. The connector wires are Dark Green wire and a Black wire.

This is the switch that must be causing the fan to come on.

The only thing I can think of is the connector pin for the
Dark Green wire is damaged inside the connector plug.

So I recommend you use a razor blade and cut back
some of the wire insulation from the Dark Green wire a
couple of inches in back of the connector plug wire.

Then attach another wire to the exposed wire and the other end to the negative battery terminal.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks. I will try this tomorrow.
 

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