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cooling issues

grumpyvette

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 17, 2001
Messages
841
Location
Loxahatchee, FL, Palm Beach co
just some info too think thru
the engines state of tune effects the heat generated, vacuum leaks tend to increase heat, octane used effects the heat, your ignition timing curve effects the heat
the type of coolant effects the rate heats transfered
the amount ant type of oil effects the temp transfer rates
a larger oil filter, and larger capacity baffeled oil pan, tends to reduce temps due to exposing a larger surface area to the air flow
anything that reduces airflow thru the radiator reduces its efficiency
the water pump and T-stat both effect the rate heats transfered, high flow water pumps can help
the electric fans work off a sensor and the temp they turn on at can be modified, larger or additional electrical fans can be added
on an auto trans car,the transmission fluid adds a good deal of heat to the radiator, adding a seperate ADDITIONAL trans cooler with a seperate ellectric fan,removes a good deal of the load from the radiator
oil in the engine flowing over parts absorbs and transfers heat , having a larger baffled oil pan hanging down in the airflow under the engine helps cool the engine
headers remove heat faster than stock exhaust manifolds
aftermarket aluminum radiators can be far more efficient
the dia. of the pullies your using does effect the coolant flow
running the correct T-stat can help cooling, generally the 180F-190F is the best compromize

http://www.becool.com/
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/categoryresults.asp?catID=19
http://www.kevko.net/images/1090_full.gif
http://www.kevko.net/wetsump_chevy.htm
http://www.stefs.com/products/oilpans/circletrackwetsump.htm
http://www.radiatorbarn.com/?source=overture
engine oil needs to reach and stay at about 215F-240f to lube and clean correctly and burn off moisture
trans fluid I try to keep under 160F,surely below 180F ,

Ideally I try to keep engine coolant in the engine in the 190F-200F range but don,t get overly worried below 230F. BTW I run a 190F t-stat, temp ranges should be kept within these ranges or the wear and emmissions won,t give you the long engine and trans life and low emmission levels you expect , drop the coolant temps lower and you may gain a few hp but the wear tends to get worse as the fluids can,t opperate correctly, drop the oil temp below 211 F and acids can form in the oil (bad for bearings)

heatchrt.jpg

img212.gif
 

grumpyvette

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 17, 2001
Messages
841
Location
Loxahatchee, FL, Palm Beach co
I got asked if anodes are a good idea?
well, when you run an aluminum performance cylinder head on an iron engine block with pure copper head gaskets,like Ive been for many years, those anodes are mandatory, and yes they do work:thumbsup: and prevent or at least slow electrolysis a great deal


http://www.ve-labs.com/productpdfs/Product Sheet RadCap Revised.pdf

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/anode.html

http://www.bmcno.org/RadCap.htm

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...10101&sku=anode&searchbtn.x=16&searchbtn.y=12
 

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