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Correct order for bleeding brakes???

macvette

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2002
Messages
15
Location
Yorkville, IL, USA
Corvette
1996 Polo Green Coupe, LT1, Auto
I'm planning on bleeding my brakes soon. I've seen different things listed for bleeding order. In days of old, the normal order would be furthest from the master cylinder to closest. Is this still the case with the ABS stuff located behind the drivers seat? Should I still go RR, LR, RF, LF? I think my Haynes manual had something different than this.

Suggestions???
 
It's always been my understanding that you start with the closest wheel to the master cylinder and work toward the one farthest from the master cylinder. With the advent of the dual master cylinder, however, this can be done on either axle first, but do the drivers side wheel of the two first.

Good luck,
 
two bleeder screws?

Do the calipers on the '96 Vette have 1 or 2 bleeder screws? I only recall seeing 1. The article on that web site mentions 2.
 
I only remember one myself... I have to look now... It talks about outside bleeder screws, but I can't imagine where on the outside:confused
 
there 2 on the rear of C-3's

65-thru 82 I believe had an inner & outer bleed on the rears only.


As far as bleeding goes... do the furthest first...

And...If your system is REALLY gunky do a gravity bleed first..




Vig!
 
The GM manual for my 89 states to do them in this order:

Front Right
Rear Right
Rear Left
Front Left

I have bled mine this way 4 or 5 times without troubles

If you need Help, vettn94 (on the forum) and I would be happy to give to a hand or 2
 
Would bleeding the brakes help remedy a spongy brake pedal, or the vehicle pulling to one side when the brakes are applied? And is there any timeframe/distance for how often you should bleed them?

Jason
 
Most people don't do this as a normal maintenance item, but it definitely should be done!! To make a long story short, there is water in the air, the brake system isn't perfectly sealed from the outside air, brake fluid absorbs water, and water drastically reduces the usefulness of brake fluid.... 3% water contamination in brake fluid = 25+% lower boiling point... it takes apprx. 12 months to reach 2%, 18 months to reach 3% on most cars. When your fluid boils, it puts air in the lines, makes a spongy pedal, and really isn't safe! The only way it could help side/side pull is if one brake boiled first... i would bleed the lines and see what happens next.
 
Jeff,

My Haynes manual says

1) Left Rear
2) Right Rear
3) Left Front
4) Right Front


I'm wondering if it really matters what the order is?!?!?


Thanks for offering a hand. I think Harold (with the new '03
Anniv. Vette) is going to help me if I can find some time in the next week or two. He only lives 3 miles from me. If he moves before I can get the brakes done I might be giving you a call.

Thanks,
Jim
 
Da Bleedin brakes

I do it every 2 years... when I do brake inspections.

You can tell you need a bleeding when the fluid is BROWN!

The natural color is cooking oil yellow.

And bleeding will help a spongy pedal.


Gravity bleed

Get a piece of hose to fit SNUGLY over bleed screw
PUT a NUT over the end of the hose to weight it down...

Get a Mayo jar ( glass )

WASH IT OUT CLEAN!

Jack up car
remove wheel
Crack bleeder nipple, don' t open it.. just get it so it's turnable with wrench
( they get old & funky.. and sometimes you need a little EXTRA oomph!)

Put enough brake fluid in the MAYO jar in to cover the end hose.

OPEN BLEEDER

take top off master cylinder.... keep fluid topped off!

Watch as OLD fluid drains out....

When you've filled the master up 5 times....( front wheels... non ABS)
7 times rear wheels ( non ABS )

You have replaced the majority of the fluid in the system....

Close bleeder.

Do this ONE wheel at a time.. and check the pedal as you do it.


Vig!
 
Jim
If you change your mind I'll also offer my garage,
I'm half way between you & Jeff up rt59. it would be a little closer for you.

and keep an eye out for that nut in the maroon Honda on I-88 ;)
 
Vettelt193 said:
Most people don't do this as a normal maintenance item, but it definitely should be done!! To make a long story short, there is water in the air, the brake system isn't perfectly sealed from the outside air, brake fluid absorbs water, and water drastically reduces the usefulness of brake fluid.... 3% water contamination in brake fluid = 25+% lower boiling point... it takes apprx. 12 months to reach 2%, 18 months to reach 3% on most cars. When your fluid boils, it puts air in the lines, makes a spongy pedal, and really isn't safe! The only way it could help side/side pull is if one brake boiled first... i would bleed the lines and see what happens next.

Thanks for the info.

Jason
 
Unless there is air in the system, the order will not be important. Under these conditions, you are actually flushing the brakes. As vigman says, every two years is really a minimum. I try to keep the brakes in all my vehicles flushed annually, when the fluid gets even the least bit dark.

The reason it is important is that brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture. The moisture will lead to corrosion in the cylinders that, of course, leads to cylinder failure.

If there is indeed air, then follow the factory order as the guys indicate.

It really makes no sense to me to bleed the cylinder farthest away from the master cylinder when there is air present. There can possibly be air in the near cylinder that could make it out and down the line toward the far cylinder. This is why I was told years ago to bleed the near cylinder(s) first. It's always worked well for me.

Best of luck with the project,
 
I've always bled farthest to nearest, after sucking out as much from the master and cleaning it.

I use either a suction tool, or pedal pressure, into a jar, to bleed.

Water in the lines also causes corrosion in the cylinders. Changing the fluid helps prevent that and keeps braking action even. It MAY help stop 'pulling'.

:w

Small containers help ensure that little, if any moisture is absorbed by in partially used container. Any savings from a large one is eroded as quickly as the paint on yer fender, by brake fluid, when you have to toss a moisturized, darkened batch!
 
How much brake fluid is needed to flush a typical system (not nesisarily(sp?) a Corvette). And what about drum brakes. Is it a simmilar process?

Jason
 
For ME

6-8 pints
Buy em in the small containers,
that way you have enough on hand + spares!

And it's the same deal for Drum!


Vig!
 

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