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Cove trim on 61

  • Thread starter Thread starter studiog
  • Start date Start date
S

studiog

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Some of the holes where the SS cove trim attaches had been "bondo-ed" in when I got my car. I can see where many of these holes are as I made sure not to fill and feather these so I would be able to find them later on. Well now it's later on and I am noticing that these holes don't all seem to be centered on the edge that defines the cove outline. They mostly seem to be to one side or the other. How accurate do i have to be? There are also a few around the front of the wheel well that are completely gone. The diameter of the holes also seems to vary. I am considering transferring with a cardboard template some holes that are present on one side to the other side. I am assuming they are symmetric and mirror each other but I will still be missing some at the very front. I don't have my new stainless yet but I'm thinking now would be a good time to get my trim and deal with this situation. HELP!! :L
 
61 Stainless

Hi!



I would wait until I got my stainless to lay out the holes. I had to massage the stainless to fit the wheel well arc and you will need to adjust it from front to back. It may be wrong, but I even elongated a few holes so that I could get the fit I liked. (Allowed the stainless to move horizontally) I believe that the 61 AIM will show the basic locations of the holes.



Ray
 
Thanks Ray,
Do the fasteners that hold the trim on slide on the back side of the trim pieces so you have room to adjust or are they stationary? I think you are right about having the trim in hand before punching any more holes. I have studied the AIM but it didn't help much.
Thanks again,
Gary
 
61 Stainless

Gary



The fasteners are T-shape and they slide or turn in to the underside of the molding. The area you must be most careful is around the curve of the wheel opening. The balance is almost a straight run. Be very careful on how much tension you use when tightening. I spent weeks straightening and polishing my stainless and after installation you could see where some of the fasteners were located.



Ray
 
Very good tip. I will probably order my $tainle$$ trim on Monday.
Thanks,
Gary
 
studiog said:
Some of the holes where the SS cove trim attaches had been "bondo-ed" in when I got my car. I can see where many of these holes are as I made sure not to fill and feather these so I would be able to find them later on. Well now it's later on and I am noticing that these holes don't all seem to be centered on the edge that defines the cove outline. They mostly seem to be to one side or the other. How accurate do i have to be? There are also a few around the front of the wheel well that are completely gone. The diameter of the holes also seems to vary. I am considering transferring with a cardboard template some holes that are present on one side to the other side. I am assuming they are symmetric and mirror each other but I will still be missing some at the very front. I don't have my new stainless yet but I'm thinking now would be a good time to get my trim and deal with this situation. HELP!! :L

WHEN ARE YOU GOING TO PAINT?
 
Hi Larry,
My wife keeps asking the same question. :L
I am really close to paint. Probably in 2 weeks. I want to do one more coat of primer this coming weekend then finish block sand and then the paint. I know I am really slow but I keep finding little things I need to fix.... I'm thinking of changing my avatar to a snail :)
 
Larry it is going to be Roman Red w/white coves.
 
61 trim

Studiog

Are you going to test mount and adjust your trim prior to paint?

Ray
 
61 Silver said:
Studiog

Are you going to test mount and adjust your trim prior to paint?

Ray
Yes Ray, definitely, per your recommendation. By the way I don't know if I told you how well the front hood line came out using your method. It looks great. Thanks again for that great tip.
 
61 Restoration

Hi Studio:

Got any photo's of the latest stage of your car's resto?
Just curious........

Chris
 
tsarbar said:
Hi Studio:

Got any photo's of the latest stage of your car's resto?
Just curious........

Chris
No, but I'll take some and post them soon. Funny thing is after all that time block sanding, priming, block sanding, priming, and touching up minor flaws here and there trying to get a good fit, the car doesn't look any different in a photo then it did a few months ago. You would have to see it in person to appreciate the progress.
 
61 Restoration

Hi! studiog





The 61 may not look different in the picture but you know what all you hard work has achieved. How many times have you walked by the 61 and just had to touch it. To feel the smooth finish and crisp body lines. I know I had to prep mine a couple times to insure that all my fingerprints and oil was removed prior to paint. I am still hoping that one of my fingerprints don’t show up in the future.



Can't wait to view your pictures!



Ray
 
61 Silver said:
Hi! studiog





The 61 may not look different in the picture but you know what all you hard work has achieved. How many times have you walked by the 61 and just had to touch it. To feel the smooth finish and crisp body lines. I know I had to prep mine a couple times to insure that all my fingerprints and oil was removed prior to paint. I am still hoping that one of my fingerprints don’t show up in the future.



Can't wait to view your pictures!



Ray
Ray, you read me like a book. That is exactly what I do when I walk by the vette which is almost every day. I have had my hands over every inch of the body seeking out flaws even though my guide coats tell me it is in good shape. I know in the end it won't be perfect but it won't be for a lack of trying. I will have to prep it very well. I still have one more coat of final primer to go. :)
PS: My cove trim should be here tomorrow.
 
So How many gallons of slick sand do you have on it to far? I dropped off 3 gallons of it to the body shop yesterday, today I have to go and buy 2 Home Depo primer guns with a .50 nozzel?

How hard is this stuff to work with
 
IH2LOSE said:
So How many gallons of slick sand do you have on it to far? I dropped off 3 gallons of it to the body shop yesterday, today I have to go and buy 2 Home Depo primer guns with a .50 nozzel?

How hard is this stuff to work with


Larry I used 2 gallons which seemed to be plenty. Its not expensive. It builds very high and block sands pretty easy with 120 grit to start, feathers great. I had some problems with allot of texturing on my first try with a HVLP gun that I was not use too. The only thing I would recommend in my limited experience is to thin it with acetone to the recommended maximum. It seems to level out allot better this way but will tend to sag & run easier of course. If it runs or sags don't sweat it, it will sand out easily. Let it sit overnight at least before sanding. I used the max gun tip recommended... 2.2. Also needs to be mixed very well as the solids settle out. I took it to a local hardware store and had them shake it for me just before I used it. Lowes would not do this for me. John McGraw is the real expert on this stuff hopefully he will comment on this. Good luck!
 
61 Silver said:
Hi!



I would wait until I got my stainless to lay out the holes. I had to massage the stainless to fit the wheel well arc and you will need to adjust it from front to back. It may be wrong, but I even elongated a few holes so that I could get the fit I liked. (Allowed the stainless to move horizontally) I believe that the 61 AIM will show the basic locations of the holes.



Ray
I wondered if these holes could be elongated to make the trim fit better. One side of mine is about 1/8" off at the front of the wheel well right at the bottom of the body. It's a nice fit everywhere else. My only concern is if there will be a mark in the paint where the trim was located if I move it a little. At least I know others have done it.
 
dennisb said:
I wondered if these holes could be elongated to make the trim fit better. One side of mine is about 1/8" off at the front of the wheel well right at the bottom of the body. It's a nice fit everywhere else. My only concern is if there will be a mark in the paint where the trim was located if I move it a little. At least I know others have done it.
This seems to be the trouble spot where the cove trim curves down to meet the front bumper. I will elongate mine too if needed. I don't care what it looks like from behind as long as the finished trim looks right. I think Ray said he was able to massage the trim to fit. I wonder if there is some flexibilty of the trim to bend ever so slightly to fit the curve where it meets the bumper? Guess I will find out.
 

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