Crankshaft balancer removal

[96Holly]

I forgot to ask that important question.... were do I get a copy of street and performance sales/parts catalog???

 

[rcdk]

"This thread has been driving me crazy because I have done this job before several times (on LT1 engines, just not in vettes), and don't remember EVER having any difficulty with the balancer. "

The problem in the vette is the frame runs right in front of the balancer. It makes it tough to get a puller down there, and the puller interferes with the frame if you try to remove the whole assembly.

Since I was just replacing the opti, I just managed to pull the balancer/hub far enough out to get the opti off, so I didn't have a problem reinstalling it -- that was the easy part.

I believe the textbook solution is to raise the engine a couple of inches until the balancer clears the frame rail.

 

[96Holly]

I did look at it last night to find the same thing. I removed all bolts from the ring/hub assy. and did some light tapping from behind. It did not budge at all.

I will probably purchase a new ring/hub for the car. I will remove the old one with my constructed puller. I can only hope that this street and performance has the correct part for the LT4. It will take about a week for me to fab up the puller so any other sugestion out there would be much appreciated!!

If I run into any snags with my puller, does Street and Performance parts/sales catalog have the assy and pull/install tools?

 

[evolution]

You HAVE to use a puller so as not to screw anything up

 

[96Holly]

I agree with the puller now. All indications tell me that these two parts, the balancer and hub, are welded together by the cancer....rust

Otherwise it should just fall apart.....

 

[Skyguy007]

Help with LT4 water pump removal.

I'm into an OptiSpark and water pump replacement on an LT4, however, I can't spearate the water pump from the block. I've removed 4 long bolts that I believe are the only fasteners from the pump to the block, but nothing budges. The shop manual is so vague that it's implossible to tell how many bolts there are.

Is there some trick to use to pop off the water pump? How about a preferred prying location?

By the way, it sure was fun getting showered in Dexcool when I pulled out the knock sensors. Obviously, the engineer who designed this system for draining the block didn't have to do it laying on his back with barely enough wiggle room to slide under the car!

 

[EricVonHa]

I may have missed something earlier, however, what is the purpose for removing the balancer? If your good is to replace the cam, timing chain, or re-gasket the timing chain cover, then the balancer and snout needs to be removed. If you're only working on the optispark then only the balancer needs to be removed.

The LT1/4 series of motors have pressed on crank snouts. The snout is separate is from the balancer. The snout is what the balancer is fastened to with (3) 15mm head bolts. If you've got some mileage on you LT1/4 and those 3 bolts have been removed-- you need to find a way to get it off by gently prying it out. After time and weather, it will become stuck on the hub of the crank snout and becomes a pita to remove.

There is a specific tool for removing the crank snout. Standard pullers will and can work-- but it's damn near impossible and you stand a chance of scarring the center bolt and threads of the crank. The high level of difficulty in using a standard puller is due to the tight space between the power steering rack and the cross-frame rail. If I had to do this all over again, I'd buy the specific tool for the LT1's and be done with it.

Here it is:

Balancer Hub Removal Kent-Moore tool J-39046

 

[Ken]

I see now why this thread grew so lengthy and detailed. This afternoon I saw first-hand why the balancer removal process on a Corvette LT-1 is so complicated.

My engine builder was working on a '93 today, and he had the whole front end of the engine apart; first time it's been apart since it left the factory. He was replacing everything for the guy, and not having an easy time of it either. It is kinda tight in there.

Don't know if you got it apart, and back together again, but good luck anyway!

 

[Skyguy007]

What you've seen doesn't count private messages and posts on other forums! If I live through this I'm vowing to make a fixture LT4/1 users can fit in the narrow confines to get the darned balancer off. One user suggested the hammer and 2x4 method of urging the balancer off. I'm going to give that a try tonight with some help from penetrating oil. Success, when it occurs, will be posted here.

 

[Skyguy007]

Success! Balancer was removed in 30 minutes by hammering on the center hub of the balancer from the back side with a metal bar and a 2 lb hammer while having an assistant periodically turn the crank using a 16mm deep socket on the hub bolt head. I had to be careful to pound on the balancer and not on one of the three hub "ears" where the balancer bolts fasten, but the balancer came off.

 

[96Holly]

Congrats skyguy007...

It took me a while also. Glad to see someone is getting some use out my old post. I was suprised to see it open again.

I have access through my brother-in-law to a machine shop. We detailed up a print for a special puller made out of some round stock. Works like a charm. the puller fits into the bell of the balancer. I was to scared to pound on the bal myself...

Anyway the job is just about done for ya!!! make sure you use anti seeze (sp?) on you water pump and stat housing bolts.

 

[Skyguy007]

The job's done and the Vette's back up and running strong. If I ever have to remove the balancer again, it will take me longer to get the car up on the ramps than it will to pound off the balancer from behind.

I'd be afraid of getting a puller stuck between the balancer and the cross member once the balancer comes loose. What will your puller hook onto?

 

[96Holly]

There are no "hooks". basically it's a slices of round stock steel with 4 holes in it. Take out the three "bell" bolts on the bal. Take out the center crank bolt and replace with a slightly longer one. Screw three "bell" screws into the bal. Then screw one long bolt through the puller untill it starts "pushing" against the center bolt that you just mounted onto the center crank position. Keep twisting long bolt till you have enough room to pull the Opti.

 

[94conv.]

where does one get one of your pullers?

 

[DMGroh]

96Holly:

How about posting a picture...I'm having trouble visualizing what it looks like. If it's a good as you say, I'll nominate you for the Crankshaft Damper Hall of Fame!

 

[redc4corvette]

Sorry I missed this thread but you need a puller for an LT1 and it costs $360.00.

Only an LT1-LT4 have a puller made just for that engine NO OTHER PULLER WILL WORK!!!

I HAVE ONE. I think you are to far away to borrow it.
Snap - On tools can get it for you.

 

[96Holly]

Wow this thread is still alive...

Once again I am suprised that this thing still has legs...

I don't have ready access to a digital camera but will post a pic or two when it's it's done. Mine worked pretty well because it fit in bell and out of the way. Looking back on my description it would be hard to visulize what I was tring to say.

Check back or subscribe to this thread. I should have it up in a week... no digital camera... I use the rabbit ears for my TV reception too... I am lucky to have this computer with dial up...

 

[thirdtimevetteowner]

It's called a harmonic balancer because it stops (lessens) unwanted harmonic cycles that the rotational mass produces, especially at a fixed RPM, such as cruising speeds.
Like rcdk said above, they are a "unit", and have to remain as one, so if you already have caused the outer one to move even slightly you should buy a new one or it will create havoc with the balance of the crank, rods and pistons. They are primative compared to the new ones developed by the company who came out w/the
"Fluidamper, which does the job by means of hydraulics, and can work much smoother
w/out worry that the two could separate or become ajar. If you have ever watched the timing mark move around when revving an engine, you can see the outer ring trying to "catch up" with the inner hub that is bolted directly to the crank, which may help put it all in perspective for you. Hope this helped.

 

[Vis Croceus]

Sorry I missed this thread but you need a puller for an LT1 and it costs $360.00.

Only an LT1-LT4 have a puller made just for that engine NO OTHER PULLER WILL WORK!!!

I HAVE ONE. I think you are to far away to borrow it.
Snap - On tools can get it for you.

The original post (which is three years old!!!) was about the balancer not the hub. A regular old 2-jaw puller works for the balancer. That's what I used.

For the hub, which I think you are talking about, you do not need the special tool, at least according to the book "How to Rebuild Small Block Chevy LT1/LT4 Engines." They used a steering wheel puller.