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DEAD BATTERIES

"Pains" in the rear

vetmaniac:
I'm not trying to be picky, but it's phonetically pronounced "tuches" with the emphasis on the guttural "ch", as if you are trying to cough up a "luggy".
Anytime that I can be helpful. Amazing the time you have once you retire.
59-62USNVET
 
No More Dead Batteries

After many Dead Batteries and total frustration I brought the 06 back to the dealer and told him to keep it until it's fixed or I'll be seeing my lawyer about the "Lemon Law". He had it for about 2 weeks and all seems to be fine for now. The culprit? Evidently the car is affixed with a fuse for the "Onstar" feature even though the cars were not available with the feature. After removing the fuse, the battery draw causing the drain went away. The tech people at Chevrolet advised to leave the fuse removed as it is not needed for any feature. It has been a week now and the battery is fine. I am happy!!!!
59-62USNVET
 
Well I'll be darned.
Thanks for the follow up. It may turn out to be the cause of others' problems too.
 
USNVet,
I know you have a Z06, while I have a convertible, but I also experienced a curious battery drain issue that manifested itself several times over the 18 months since I acquired my C6. I documented it in THIS THREAD.

In my case, it turned out to be the Remote Door Lock Receiving Module, which was not turning itself off when the car armed itself, and there is apparently a known Technical Service Bulletin for this. It took going to a second dealer to get the problem fixed properly.

I wonder if your problem and mine might have been somewhat related?

:w
-Patrick
 
Still Dies

To All FYI:
The battery still drains after a visit from the Vet (Techs?). I can't go 3 days without the battery draining. My dealer has to wait after New Year before getting thru to someone at Chev. who can help. I am starting to consider the NJ lemon law. Total frustration. I feel like taking her out back and putting her out of my misery and frustration with a few rounds of OO buck except NJ has too strict laws on mercy killing.
59-62USNVET
 
Put an meter on your car and check the current drain out

To All FYI:
The battery still drains after a visit from the Vet (Techs?). I can't go 3 days without the battery draining. My dealer has to wait after New Year before getting thru to someone at Chev. who can help. I am starting to consider the NJ lemon law. Total frustration. I feel like taking her out back and putting her out of my misery and frustration with a few rounds of OO buck except NJ has too strict laws on mercy killing.
59-62USNVET

USNVET, take a little of the mystery out of the equation by measuring your car's current draw at rest. Both the C5 and C6 Corvettes should only draw about 10-20 milliamps of current when they are in "resting mode". My 2004 C5 draws 17 milliamps of current, as measured by two different digital meters.

You can get a nice digital meter with a 10 amp mode/scale for about $7 from Harbor Freight or a more expensive (but under $30) digital meter from Radio Shack. Cheaper analog meters will also work fine for this purpose.

The trick in obtaining a good resting measurement is to lower the hood (the hood light itself draws more than 1000 milliamps) so the hood light will go off, and then wait 1-2 minutes for all of the control modules to go into their resting mode.

You will need to put the digital meter into a 2 amp (2000 milliamps) or preferably into its 10 amp mode, then connect it in SERIES between the battery and the car. In other words, you attach the black negative lead from the meter to the disconnected cable that WAS connected to the battery's positive terminal and you connect the red positive lead to the battery's positive terminal.

Make sure you have enough lead length so that you can lower the hood to get to the resting current draw. On my C5, the initial draw started at a little over 2 amps, but went down to 1.1 amps (1100 milliamps) or so as soon as I lowered the hood to get the hood light off. As time passed (about 2 minutes) and various Corvette control modules went back to sleep, the final steady state current draw was only 17 milliamps (.017 amps), within GM specs, and low enough to allow a good battery to remain hooked up to the car for at least a month, without being discharged.

If your current draw does not drop down to the 10-20 milliamp range, then you have a control module or a hidden light (glove box??) or after market accessory drawing too much power from your battery. To troubleshoot which circuit is the culprit, you will first need to remove the hood light and then pull fuses, one by one until the current drain is eliminated. Since your car is under warranty, I would let the dealer work on this aspect, unless the car has been modified with a sound system, etc.

If your dealer can't tell you (in milliamps) right up front how much your current draw should be when the car is resting, I would go to a different dealer. He shouldn't need to "call anyone" at GM to get this information, but he may need to talk to one of his mechanics who is familiar with the Corvette. Good luck.
 
Dead Batteries

I had a dead battery in a week after I installed a "mild to wild" exhaust switch and plugged a escort 8500 radar detector into the cig liter. After I changed the wiring on the "mild to wild" and 8500 to a switch curcuit, all problems have been resolved. So, if you installed a "mild to wild" switch, choose the wiring option provided by the instructions, to wire into the switched circuit. Takes a few more minutes but it will eliminate the drained battery issue. Same for a radar detector. :thumb
 
I have an '07 Z06 which was built in October of 2006. It has 16,000 miles and is finishing its third Michigan Winter. Original battery, never a problem starting. No battery tender or disconnect during the winter. It may also sit up to three weeks without a starting.

I'm considering myself fortunate to not have this problem. Good luck in finding the cure. :thumb
 
I still have my OEM battery (after 3 years and 25,000 miles.) I find it necessary to "exercise the battery" by cycling it often. If you want to kill a battery, just leave it alone. It'll die from sulfates, and quick too.
 
On this topic of batteries...
I've noticed a decrease in quality, especially durability, of "Delco" branded batteries. I attribute this to Delphi no longer being the sole source of Delco batteries in GM vehicles.

I've also noticed that the fabled Optima Red Top has really dropped in quality. I've had one fail prematurely and my Editor at "Corvette Enthusiast" says he's seen the same thing happen. Now I read here that people are having similar results. I think since Johnson Controls bought Optima, the product is still very well marketed but is not as well-made.

I've moved most of my cars to the Odyssey Battery. I've been testing them for about 14 months with excellent results. The unfortunate thing is that Odysseys are quite expensive, but they're a high-end battery with very high pulse output (good for cranking) and outstanding durability and I was tired of Delcos and Optima's that fail at inappropriate times.

There's more info on the Odyssey right here on the CAC at:
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/79
 
Thanks for the info Hib. I WILL NOT buy another Red Top. I have spent a few bucks in the last few months changing out my 57 Bel Air(Corvette suspension and drive train) and my 90 ZR1 from Red Tops to regular lead acid batteries. I will give the others a new battery soon and will give your batteries a try.
 
Thanks for the info Hib. (sni)
I will give the others a new battery soon and will give your batteries a try.

Odysseys are a good product, but I don't work for or represent the Odyssey's mfg, EnerSys, Inc. I just tried them out and, after trying others, settled on them because I was tired of premature replacements.
 
Don't worry, I didn't take your recommdation that way. I do trust your opinion though.
 
Roger that.
I notice that you're in the Las Vegas area.

In my other "life" as the SoCal/SoNev Section Captain for the 2009 Caravan, I'm looking for an organizer in the Vegas valley. If you're interested, contact me at captain.socalcar@charter.net
 
NO MORE DEAD BATTERIES

It took about six weeks and numerous visits to my dealer from the GM tech to finally solve the problem: It seems that after shutting the car down instead of drawing 10-20 milliamps it was drawing about ten times that amount so that after a few days I would end up with a dead battery. The culprit? After extensive and time consuming diagnostics, it was discovered that when the vehicle was assembled, two wires leading to the drivers side visor had the insulation crimped upon installation. This caused the Body Control Module to "Wake Up" creating an endless cycle of current draw sufficient to drain the battery after a few days. The visor was replaced by the GM tech and all is fine. However, the replacement visor had a different garage door opener with 3 LED lights, one over each button. GM has replaced the supplier of the opener resulting in a completely different programming procedure than the one that is in the owners manual. Go to Lear Car2U System: Universal garage door opener for Cadillac, Chevrolet and GMC vehicles - Lear Car2U System for instructions on programming. During the hit and miss period of diagnosing they replaced the radio/nav. system. That resulted in killing the nav and clock. Back to the dealer and they will put a new radio/nav. in. To bad the original radio wasn't still around. Oh well, That is GM's problem. While anyone else having this battery problem can find this story interesting, it is a lot of work diagnosing the electrical problem. 59-62USNVET
 
It took about six weeks and numerous visits to my dealer from the GM tech to finally solve the problem: It seems that after shutting the car down instead of drawing 10-20 milliamps it was drawing about ten times that amount so that after a few days I would end up with a dead battery. The culprit? After extensive and time consuming diagnostics, it was discovered that when the vehicle was assembled, two wires leading to the drivers side visor had the insulation crimped upon installation. This caused the Body Control Module to "Wake Up" creating an endless cycle of current draw sufficient to drain the battery after a few days. The visor was replaced by the GM tech and all is fine. However, the replacement visor had a different garage door opener with 3 LED lights, one over each button. GM has replaced the supplier of the opener resulting in a completely different programming procedure than the one that is in the owners manual. Go to Lear Car2U System: Universal garage door opener for Cadillac, Chevrolet and GMC vehicles - Lear Car2U System for instructions on programming. During the hit and miss period of diagnosing they replaced the radio/nav. system. That resulted in killing the nav and clock. Back to the dealer and they will put a new radio/nav. in. To bad the original radio wasn't still around. Oh well, That is GM's problem. While anyone else having this battery problem can find this story interesting, it is a lot of work diagnosing the electrical problem. 59-62USNVET

U-N-B-E-L-I-E-V-A-B-L-E! But at least they found the problem. No wonder GM's in trouble. :eyerole
 
My Z06 is in for its' third Delco. If I could vent another battery like the Delco is vented, I'd do it in a heartbeat. Batteries don't outgas much unless they are being charged, but with my luck........boom.
 
I've had good luck with Red Tops so I was really suirprised at the feedback.

While you're at WalMart, buy one of their battery tenders....~ five years, no problems.
 
I've had good luck with Red Tops so I was really suirprised at the feedback.

While you're at WalMart, buy one of their battery tenders....~ five years, no problems.

I have also had good luck with Red Tops, but then again I use a float charger whenever the car is going to sit for ten days or more.

Consumer Reports says the brand 'Everstart' from Walmart as excellant batteries. with great long life? They also said 'Diehard' was a close second.
 
...You will need to put the digital meter into a 2 amp (2000 milliamps) or preferably into its 10 amp mode, then connect it in SERIES between the battery and the car. In other words, you attach the black negative lead from the meter to the disconnected cable that WAS connected to the battery's positive terminal and you connect the red positive lead to the battery's positive terminal...

I know this is an old thread, but isn't that backwards?

Wouldn't you connect the positive lead from the meter to the positive battery cable, then connect the negative lead from the meter to the positive post on the battery?

And does that need to be done on the positive cable? I had read you do it on the negative cable?
 

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