DIPSTICK TUBE SNAPPED OFF AT BLOCK

[welsh c2]

The dipstick tube on my '67 small block coupe has sheared off flush where it goes into the block.
Does anyone know of a way to extract the piece left in the block without having to drop the pan and push it out?
Any help will be much appreciated!

Thanks

Richard

 

[grumpyvette]

if its not stuck badly screw a threading tap into it

and pull it clear with vise grips

something in the 1/4"-5/16" should fit, just try to use the smallest size that gets a grip, if you get aggressive and use too large a tap the tube gets expanded, and yeah before someone else points it out, change your oil and flush a coulple cheap quarts of extra oil thru after you do it and befor starting the engine because a few bits of metalic crud will fall thru the old dipstick into the oil pan durring the process

 

[gmjunkie]

if its not stuck badly screw a threading tap into it

and pull it clear with vise grips

something in the 1/4"-5/16" should fit, just try to use the smallest size that gets a grip, if you get aggressive and use too large a tap the tube gets expanded, and yeah before someone else points it out, change your oil and flush a coulple cheap quarts of extra oil thru after you do it and befor starting the engine because a few bits of metalic crud will fall thru the old dipstick into the oil pan durring the process

The best way I know,it will come right Outta There!!

 

[welsh c2]

Thanks for the advice guys, It's much appreciated . Using the tap does sound like a nicer job!

 

[WayneC]

Thanks for the advice guys, It's much appreciated . Using the tap does sound like a nicer job!

Be careful. If you aren't removing the pan, the tap may leave metal shavings behind. At least stuff an oil-dampened cloth topped by some heavy grease or something down inside the hole first to catch shavings and then pull it out afterward. Perhaps an ez-out would be a better choice, as it wouldn't be as likely to produce shavings: http://tinyurl.com/2qekn4

 

[welsh c2]

Thanks again!
It's good to hear different points of view.

 

[JohnZ]

Just coat the tap with grease - that will hold any minor shavings; just thread the tap in far enough to grab the ID of the tube - any further, and it'll expand the tube and it won't come out at all. A conventional tapered tap (rather than a bottoming tap) works better for this particular application, as its "bite" is more gradual as you turn it.

 

[welsh c2]

Thanks John, that extra detail is good to know. I'll try the tap on the other piece of tube first, on the bench, just to see how far to go to get a good bite.
Cheers!

 

[ChuckG]

Did the trick work?

Chuck

 

[welsh c2]

I'll get back with the results once I can get round to this particular job. Hopefully not too long!

 

[grumpyvette]

while an eze-out screw extractor may work its designed to bite into and expand as it tightens , not always a good idea on a flimsy tube, the bottoming tap was suggested because it cuts almost full dia threads and youll rarely need to go more than 1.5 times its dia. to get a decent grip on the tube in this case thats probably less than 3/8" deep.
the grease on the tap to grab chips cut as it threads into the tube is STANDARD practice, I should probably have mentioned that (thanks for the reminder)

 

[welsh c2]

Thanks again, I'll bear that in mind

 

[welsh c2]

Pictures of successful removal ! [broken dipstick tube]

At last I got around to this job!
With exhaust manifold removed I tried a selection of taps against the replacement tube and a 3/8 tap looked the best.
With the tap screwed in I attempted pulling it, and the broken piece free with vice grips.
It just would not budge!
Eventually the tap pulled free leaving the piece still firmly in the block!
The only way now was a bigger tap, assuming there was enough metal left to get a grip on. I also thought that another way of pulling it out with a more steadily appled force may be worth a try.
Now using a 10mm tap[1.5 pitch] and 4" long 10mm bolt with nut, washer and spacer pipe sitting on the block[clear of the rim of the tube] I tightened the nut down against the washer and the top of the pipe.
Eventually the bolt was fully withdrawn and on the end was the piece of dipstick tube!
So I would say a 10mm second tap fully greased to collect the swarf is the one for the job.
I'll also do an oil change just in case any chips found their way to the sump.

 

[SMOKINGJOE]

At last I got around to this job!
With exhaust manifold removed I tried a selection of taps against the replacement tube and a 3/8 tap looked the best.
With the tap screwed in I attempted pulling it, and the broken piece free with vice grips.
It just would not budge!
Eventually the tap pulled free leaving the piece still firmly in the block!
The only way now was a bigger tap, assuming there was enough metal left to get a grip on. I also thought that another way of pulling it out with a more steadily appled force may be worth a try.
Now using a 10mm tap[1.5 pitch] and 4" long 10mm bolt with nut, washer and spacer pipe sitting on the block[clear of the rim of the tube] I tightened the nut down against the washer and the top of the pipe.
Eventually the bolt was fully withdrawn and on the end was the piece of dipstick tube!
So I would say a 10mm second tap fully greased to collect the swarf is the one for the job.
I'll also do an oil change just in case any chips found their way to the sump.

Great idea Thanks Now all I have to do is remember it when I need it.