Do beam plates really work?

[4cefed]

I know they make installing the bolts easier, I just don't see how they stiffen the beam? They seem too short to be effective. However, I don't know since I have never had any on any of my car's. Would be interested in your thought's?

 

[tntcorvette]

I have them on my car. The design and construction is top notch. Im not into fabricating my own stuff so I would not try and make my own.

Have you ever accelerated and noticed the car pulls to one side? Almost a twisting motion?

These plates ensure the car tracks in a straight line.

Keeping the bolts tight will not replicate the beam plates function & effect.

 

[Ken]

Ok, now I gotta ask. One of you has a '90 and the other an '85; just what the hell are "beam plates?" :L

_ken

 

[Colorado]

http://www.zfdoc.com/c4beamplate.htm

 

[tntcorvette]

I got these a couple of years ago.

http://www.zfdoc.com/c4beamplate.htm

 

[Ken]

Very cool, thanks.

_ken

 

[ericcer]

They work well!

 

[scorp508]

I am still not convinced of these things. When I stomp on the gas my car goes straight whether it is getting traction or not. It has since day 1, and it has even after I've removed the torque beam multiple times.

 

[ericcer]

Some cars don't have this problem. Mine did. I noticed that mostly it was the cars with over 300 rwhp that had the problem. Quite a number of ZR1 and LT4 guys that powershift would have the car kick out to the right before beam plates.

 

[rkreigh]

they stiffen the mounting points of the beam where it "fish mouths" to go over the diff and the back of the trans by better distributing the clamping force of the bolts. they make a noticeable difference, more so on stick cars. I have put 3 sets on my zr1s, and even the drm car with the roll bar, I noticed the car puts the power down better and the tendancy for the car to step out under acceleration is reduced.

they make mounting the beam much easier, and reduce the tendancy for the bolts to losen up. another benefit of these is that the bolts tend to dig into the alum beam as it twists which causes them to lose torque. the plates keep this from happening!!!

bill b. did lots of testing with these and I help him market them.

I am a believer!!! but if you don't really push the car, you might not notice much and the improvement is subtle.

fyi,

on my LPE 368 ZR1, the rear mounting on the beam was so lose the engine was rocking. you will notice the shifter moving up and down under torque which is a clear cut sign that the beam bolts are lose. sometimes you can just tighten them up, but if they have started to dig in, they will quickly get lose again. previously, you would have to weld and fix the beam, or get a new one.

now you can just file the ridge off the mounting surface, and put on the plates and the problem is fixed.

best of all, they are money back guaranteed. if for any reason you aren't happy, your $$ is refunded.

I'm also going to put a set on my wife's LT1 automatic just to prevent the bolts from digging into the beam. she drives the car very ez, but I get my hands on it every now and then so the prevention is better than fixing it later.

see www.zfdoc.com and www.lt5registry.net (STORE) and the parts for sale thread for info. the beams are pretty slick IMHO!!!

 

[scorp508]

I noticed that mostly it was the cars with over 300 rwhp that had the problem.

Hmm.... well at 322 it hasn't been a problem (yet).

 

[rkreigh]

true, alot of the cars never do have the factory bolts get lose.

Only 1 out of my 3 zr1s had the problem. but I noticed a difference in the overall chassis stiffness on all of them.

the c4 needs all the help it can get in this area. when you see the c5 torque tube, even with the stronger hydro formed frame, the chassis stiffness is helped by making the spine of the car stronger.

a simple idea that works pretty well.

 

[ericcer]

I don't think it is a lose condition necessarily because my bolts weren't lose before I installed the beam plates. It probably has something to do with production tolerances of the C beam that connects the tranny and the rear end. Some C4's C-beams probably fit tighter than others and don't need the beam plates.

 

[rkreigh]

joel,

with that 415 you will need all the help you can get stiffening the c4 chassis. talk to aaron about putting them in.

let me know if you need a set. I have 10 sets ready to ship.

cya!!!

 

[Ken]

I don't doubt the beam plates would serve a purpose in helping tie the whole thing together, but I do have one question regarding the cost of such an item. What on earth justifies $145 at the ZR1Net, or $179 at ZR51 Performance? Can anybody explain what appears to be highway robbery?

Caveat emptor?

_ken

 

[rkreigh]

it's simple, I started buying the plates a long time ago and helping bill market them. he still cuts me the same deal he did when he started making them.

sorry you think they are expensive, when you see the quailty of the materials and see the difference they make, the 145 doesn't seem too expensive anymore. just the hassle they save is worth more than that.

I've sold over 60 sets of plates to both street folks and racers (mostly zr1 owners) and everyone has really liked them.

a very simple idea that works well and keeps the beam stabilized.

but if you just putter around in your vette and never hit it, you probably won't notice much. as for me, I pound the car and noticed a big improvement.

cya.

 

[Ken]

...if you just putter around in your vette and never hit it,

:L You evidently aren't familiar with my ongoing project, eh?

_ken

 

[rkreigh]

the more HP you make the more you will notice and appreciate what the beam plates do.

after driving my LPE 368 ZR1 (536 FWHP) the rear beam bolts losened up so bad the shifter was moving up and down about 1.5 inches just hitting the gas a bit.

I thought I had a broken motor mount!!! the beam plates really help the bolts maintain their torque, distribute the clamping force more evenly, and keep the bolts from diggin into the beam.

or you could just keep retorquing the bolts and replacing the beams. I like this approach a bit better, and the side benefit is the car plants the power better and tracks straighter.

I just upgraded to Michelin Pilot 18/335/30s and the LPE really hooks and cooks now.

sounds like you are building some serious HP Ken, shoot me a link to the details!!! thanks.

 

[Ken]

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