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Do you think that is really a matching numbers big block car?

firstgear

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 11, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Norwalk, Ohio
Corvette
15 Z06, 01 Vert, 63 SWC & 60 ALL RED
The ad says it is....I know nothing about how the numbers should really look for a restamp versus the real McCoy....let me know what you think and what is a sign that is real versus not...I would appreciate your comments....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BIG-BLOCK-427-390_W0QQitemZ4576886553QQcategoryZ6168QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

ok...and here is another one....the stamp pads don't look the same.....so what gives? (second one isn't a big block but a 327...maybe that is the difference?)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1966-California-Org-s-Matching-Corvette-Conv-Project_W0QQitemZ4577104009QQcategoryZ6168QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 
Engine stampings

It would be almost impossible for anyone to guarantee the originality of a big block car using only pictures such as these. In order to do so correctly one must get down and dirty. :nono

As far a the engine pads, this is the way the General did the stampings. They were reversed on the big and small block. Big block has the date stamping and code on the left ( when viewed from the front ) and the serial number on the right side.

The small block was reversed, with the serial number on the left ( when viewed from the front ) and the engine date and code on the right.

This is why they don't look correct to you. What is incorrect is the painting on the pad that might be hiding the broach marks, or lack of ? :ugh


Stepinwolf
 
You mentioned broach marks.I read a thread once that mentioned the depth of the machining could indicate originality.my 427 actually has circular machining marks that sometimes concerns me.Mine is painted also but preveous owner sanded or ground a little bit to show numbers.Everything else looks original.Could someone show original broach marks for a 67/427. Thanks Jim
 
jims427400 said:
You mentioned broach marks.I read a thread once that mentioned the depth of the machining could indicate originality.my 427 actually has circular machining marks that sometimes concerns me.Mine is painted also but preveous owner sanded or ground a little bit to show numbers.Everything else looks original.Could someone show original broach marks for a 67/427. Thanks Jim

circular grind marks are often indicative of a rotatary grinder having been used to grind off the old pad stamp - I have a picture somewhere of just such a job
 
jims427400 said:
You mentioned broach marks.I read a thread once that mentioned the depth of the machining could indicate originality.my 427 actually has circular machining marks that sometimes concerns me.Mine is painted also but preveous owner sanded or ground a little bit to show numbers.Everything else looks original.Could someone show original broach marks for a 67/427. Thanks Jim

Jim,

Circular machining marks may also be from resurfacing the block during a rebuild. Whether it is from this or the more questionable practice of grinding off numbers, the block in the condition you describe offers no proof as to originality.

If you want to see the numbers better, use lacquer thinner and a soft rag.

Dave
:beer
 
Didn't BB's have the battery on the driver's side?

Also, a close look at the tach shows a 5300 redline (66 300hp). It has an 80lb oil pressure gauge (66 425hp), and the hood support is on the pass side (wrong for a 390hp BB).

In my opinion (which could be wrong), this car looks like it was originally, a 327/300hp. A lot of work seems to have been done to make it a BB car, but some stuff was missed.
 
Am I seeing the hood support of the BB on the Pass side? The stamp pad on the SB looks good to me.
 
Tach and oil gauge are correct for a 66 390hp 427 car. Pass side hood prop is also correct on an early 66, look at how low the serial number is on this car, it was built during the first few weeks of 66 production (A14). looks like a driver style resto, but car appears to me to be for the most part correct.


Dennis
 
Dennis, is the battery location correct? Can't seem to remember if the battery got moved only for A/C or for BB's also.
 
Subfixer said:
Dennis, is the battery location correct? Can't seem to remember if the battery got moved only for A/C or for BB's also.

A/C cars and 65 396 cars had the battery on the drivers side, all others were on the pass side.

Dennis
 
I am a real cynic (for the lawyers in the crowd, I will give a definition -> an adherent of an ancient Greek school of philosophers who held the view that virtue is the only good and that its essence lies in self control and indepence (yup, that's me..virtuous)) when it comes to a "correct" car...too many pros out there scamming the public......


If you like the car, buy it but it's pretty darned expensive. The descriptions in this thread match my "correct " 390hp '66

good luck
 
midyear said:
A/C cars and 65 396 cars had the battery on the drivers side, all others were on the pass side.

Dennis
Does this mean that '66 or even '67 have the same setup for the battery? I am not planning on buying this car or any car right now for that matter, but I always wonder what is a REAL BB car and what is not....I figured that there were some very knowledgable members on here that would be able to make a few points here and there to help those of us that don't know some of these pointers.....thanks!!
 
The battery setup was the same from '63-'67; A/C cars on the left, non-A/C cars on the right, with the one exception being the '65 396, (which wasn't available with A/C) that had the battery on the left just like the A/C cars.
:beer
 

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