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Doing some porting soon

Could/Should I get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I have always wanted to check the actual fuel pressure. Is it as easy as hooking the guage up to the schrader valve on the fuel rail? Just things I am thinking about while the white stuff is covering the ground.

Craig
 
vetteboy86 said:
Could/Should I get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I have always wanted to check the actual fuel pressure. Is it as easy as hooking the guage up to the schrader valve on the fuel rail? Just things I am thinking about while the white stuff is covering the ground.

Craig

Craig,

Yes, it is as easy as hooking the scrader valve to the fuel rail. It's by the two vacuum hoses on the passenger side on the fuel rail. I think a normal reading is in the 35-39 PSI range.

I would get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator; I see no harm in it.
 
vetteboy86 said:
Yeah that is all in my future. As for right now, I have somewhat of limited funds. The car still runs strong, so for now the cheap stuff will do. I think I will wait until the motor starts running poorly and do a complete rebuild. Then I am thinking perhaps a stroker motor. That is all in the future.


Craig

I know what you mean. All I need is the money!:L
 
Cool, I know my bro is getting ahead of me in the mod department. I haven't decided yet if I am going to go all out on my Trans Am before I do the vette. As long as they are running I am happy. Edmond do you have any experience with the fuel pressure regulator?

Craig
 
For me, money is the one thing that would certainly make my troubles go away. Not like those other people who say money cant buy happiness.:L


Craig
 
vetteboy86 said:
Cool, I know my bro is getting ahead of me in the mod department. I haven't decided yet if I am going to go all out on my Trans Am before I do the vette. As long as they are running I am happy. Edmond do you have any experience with the fuel pressure regulator?

Craig

The only experience I have with the fuel pressure regulator was checking to make sure I was getting the proper pressure. It turned out that it was at 38psi so I just left it alone.
 
vetteboy86 said:
money is the one thing that would certainly make my troubles go away. Not like those other people who say money cant buy happiness.:L
Maybe, but I think you just trade one set of problems for another. A wise man told me, "It's not what you make but what you keep".

With that in mind, be extremely wary of everything you hear, especially from hot rod shops. Hot rodders like to show off their 'stuff' and speak of improvements, so similarly......... In the end, a skeptical buyer will keep more of his pile of gold, whatever the size.

I am hardly the oracle at engine-dom, but can relate a bit about my mistakes and what my experts told me; some true, others questionable. Most of hat is expressed in other threads about modifying these engines.

Before you grind off anything other than extra flashing from a casting process, know what the design intention was. I'd agree that potruding gasket material and mismatched ports on adjacent parts are in this category. A member with more engineering expertise than I explained in one of the aformentioned threads, why smooth intake runners are not a good idea. Similar comments are made about the Tornado device and the TB wedge. Not everyone agrees that descreening the MAF and doing the coolant bypass delivers any real improvement, while potentially causing other problems.

I do know that I wasted a fair amount of cash with my shotgun approach to more power. I learned that many of the aftermarket claims are exaggerated, or at least, not possible to fully realize with MY engine. A multi spark igniion will do as it says and the logic is sound about the claims, but they are very carefully worded and I stand by my earlier comment. If you were to boost the intake charge or run much higher revs than you have expressed are likely, I would recommend spending that dough later, on a motor built as a system. You cannot get the results without telling your engine builder rather specifically how you will drive the car.

For me, I am satisfied, despite initial reluctance to specify to my builder, exactly what I wanted from the engine, that I have a great engine (perhaps too much) for killer street performance and a probable 12 second bracket dragger. I got what I wanted by wasting money first, then slowing down and dealing with a very experienced group of Corvette experts, who told the truth about what worked and what was baloney for MY engine.

I wish the best result for you and your expensive hobby, so DOUBT EVERYBODY! (and get coated headers early on)
 
I ported the ridge off of my plenum, and did not notice, any gains or any losses, in the seat of the pants feeling. There might be some losses, but if they are they are minimal, at best.


Justin
 
Well I was pretty much just going by a guy I know who had a TPI IROC. He said he did this and the car woke up right away. Who knows maybe I should ditch building the vette, and build the TA. It is probably a better base anyways.

Craig
 
Edmond said:
Selim,

If you want to get a system is is loud, obnoxious and that will scare the neighborhood kids and intimidate some would be challengers, get a Flowmaster. :L
Edmond & Jeff,

Now I am split between Magnaflow & Flowmaster... Which one is quiter inside the car and louder & meaner outside at low - mid rpm ranges? Such as the driving condition in down town to attract the blondes and scare the kids? :) :) :)
 
SSTibet said:
Edmond & Jeff,

Now I am split between Magnaflow & Flowmaster... Which one is quiter inside the car and louder & meaner outside at low - mid rpm ranges? Such as the driving condition in down town to attract the blondes and scare the kids? :) :) :)
Selim,
I'm partial to the Magnaflow. They are stainlees steel and shine real nice. I believe the Flowmasters are aluminum. Both sound good IMO but the Magnaflow look better and although they sound mean, they are not "obnoxious".
Jeff
 
Flowmasters are pretty obnoxious and I think they have a reputation for having resonance, at least on the L98 cars. However, you do have a different setup with the resonator thingy on the LT cars.

I would recommend going with Magnaflow because of what you want.
 
Edmond said:
Would coated headers such as the TPIS model alleviate some of that underhood heat?
Well, that's where I started, so I'd say NOPE.
 
With the subject on exhaust. My 90 has the precats and the main cat with stock mufflers. If I eliminate the mufflers and go straight pipe out the back. How noisy is this going to be? Is it going to be mellow or really crack?
I have done this with other cars but not with the compresion and power of the vette.Will there be any noticable change in how the car runs under WOT? As far as looks , I can build some 304 stainless pipes and tips at work. :w
 
scav said:
With the subject on exhaust. My 90 has the precats and the main cat with stock mufflers. If I eliminate the mufflers and go straight pipe out the back. How noisy is this going to be? Is it going to be mellow or really crack?
I have done this with other cars but not with the compresion and power of the vette.Will there be any noticable change in how the car runs under WOT? As far as looks , I can build some 304 stainless pipes and tips at work. :w

You will feel a difference and it will be loud. However, I don't know if there will be any resonance.

Next time you start the car up, put your hand outside of the muffler tips. On the stock exhaust, only one tip of the muffler is actually flowing out exhaust.
 
The exhaust tips are flat wide style . I was planning on making stainless the same shape. I might do a mockup of dual tips and see what they look like.
I have used the Walker super turbo mufflers on other cars and had very little more noise than the stock muffler. Would that be diff on the vette? Replacing the stock mufflers wouldn't really be that big of an issue if the pipes were to loud. I even thought about putting on the old cuttouts, but those stock mufflers look heavy to me. A little less weight wouldn't hurt anything.
 
scav said:
The exhaust tips are flat wide style . I was planning on making stainless the same shape.

Then the exhaust isn't stock. The L98's came with quad tips while the LT's had the flat wide style.
 
I did notice that the Y at the back of the main cat looked like it had been welded and also right ahead of the mufflers didn't look like factory welds. Everything from there forward looks as if it has never been touched. Is the LT1 muffler better flowing ? or same muffler . Looks to be factory welds on the tips.
 
I don't know if the LT muffler is better flowing. I do believe the LT cars have less back pressure but that is also due to the system being designed differently from the L98 systems.

Our L98's do not have resonators. I believe the LT style exhausts have true duals into the resonator and then true dual out of the resonators splitting into the mufflers, if I recall correctly.

Our L98's have the front y-pipe that goes into the cat and then a rear y-pipe into the mufflers. I honestly believe you can gain a some solid horsepower with an exhaust change on the L98's. You really can feel it. The stock mufflers just feel "blah!!!" :L
 

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