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Door lock problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter vetteengnr
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vetteengnr

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I am having an extreme problem with my driver door. It won't open!!
original problem:
The key lock on the outside of the door has significant play and doesn't seem to activate the mechanism except for a very small click. The knob on the inside of the door has decent pull on the locking mechanism doesn't really unlock the door.
now:
I was been able to remove the door panel and look at the lock mechanism a little better. Once I put the lock knob back on the inside of the door, IT UNLOCKED!!! I was so pleased I sat and clicked the lock back and forth and have a door that worked. It would lock and unlock freely from inside the door. Unfortunately I tried to work the key on the outside of the door. Bad mistake. It provided just enough torque to relock the door and now the inside lock doesn't seem to be providing enough power to unlock the door again. Once again I am stuck.

Has anyone had this problem before??

I saw that mid america sells new lock tumblers for the outside lock. Are these a difficult install? I'm going to try and get the door open again tonight. Is it possible to pull of the outer (metal) panel from the door to get to the lock mechanism without having the door open? It is pretty obvious that I'm not able to steal a C3 I can't defeat the lock!!

Any help or advice on the door locks is greatly appreciated.

Brad
 
The lock cylinder is held in place with a retaining clip. It's possible that the cylinder is being allowed to rotate in the door due to the clip working it's way off. Mine fell off inside the door and it was impossible to unlock the door from the outside. I never did find the clip inside the door.

You can take the drivers door inside panel off without opening the door, but you have to take the drivers seat out first.
If you put the window down, you can latch onto the lock rod with a coat hanger and unlock it that way.
 
tempermental door locks (?)

Been there, done that....exactly as you described. After I replaced the driver side door latch mechanism w/ a used one purchased at a vette salvage yard; well, you know....the shotgun side started playing dead.
since the salvage yard didn't have anymore, and at the time I didn't want to pay the price others wanted, well...I went into the door lock to see what might be the problem...found nothing.
remember, I had already replaced the driver's side, so I had a "little" experience in how the handle/lock/inside lock interface.
since I found nothing to screw with, I squirted some (no! NEVER use WD-40) Lubriplate on it and put everything back together. It worked fine........for about 6-8 months.
Just before Carlisle last year, both started acting up again...and at the same time I lost a set of my keys. When I got the new cylinders/keys, I went into the mess again. The lock cylinders sent were the wrong ones. I squirted everything, put the panels back on, and took off to Carlisle where I bought two used latches from a vendor....worrying if I'd be able to unlock the doors , to replace the latches. They unlocked...and I haven't "got-around-to-it" yet. they're still working fine.
All I can say is SQUIRT'EM!! Good luck, Jim
 
I am having a similar problem. I put the retaining clip back on and everything is fine. Unfortunately after opening and shutting the door a couple of times the retaining clip comes loose again, and I have to take door panel off and redo it. I have tried bending the clip a little to make it hold tighter, but it still comes off. Anyone have any suggestions on how to keep this thing on?
 
Interesting, a few people with the same problem. Makes me think someone will post a solution!! I'm going to be giving it a real good look this weekend. Why remove the drivers seat to pull the inner door panel?
 
If you can't open the door, you need to remove the screws that hold the door panel on. The drivers seat gets in the way of pulling the panel back into the compartment. Once you get it off, you can get to the linkages that unlock the striker assembly. Lube it up with som spray lithium grease to get things unstuck.

I fixed my problem last year, and everything works fine now.
 
LanceB said:
I am having a similar problem. I put the retaining clip back on and everything is fine. Unfortunately after opening and shutting the door a couple of times the retaining clip comes loose again, and I have to take door panel off and redo it. I have tried bending the clip a little to make it hold tighter, but it still comes off. Anyone have any suggestions on how to keep this thing on?
Get a new one. They are a couple bucks.
 
wishuwerehere82 said:
... Mine fell off inside the door and it was impossible to unlock the door from the outside. I never did find the clip inside the door...

It was working fine when I sold it to you. You must have broken it.
 
97RedCorvette said:
wishuwerehere82 said:
... Mine fell off inside the door and it was impossible to unlock the door from the outside. I never did find the clip inside the door...QUOTE]

It was working fine when I sold it to you. You must have broken it.
Oh, wise guy huh?
Bro Mark got me the clips after Carlisle two years ago. Not a hard fix for Houdini! Getting inside the door panel far enough to put the clip on was the hard part. A good pair of fishing pliers helps a lot.
'bout time you got back on the CAC.
 
Where can I find a good diagram of how the lock mechanism is supposed to look with all springs attached? I have the builders manual along with several guides...chiltons, etc. but none have a section for the lock and springs...

Thanks for all the input so far!!
 
Lock

This might not be exactly what your asking but maybe it'll help. This comes from Paragon's catalog, page 101.

I tried to upload the pic but it was too large, go to
http://www.corvette-paragon.com
 
I've torn off the panel and have the hole exposed where I can look at the lock, but don't have a good feeling for how it is supposed to look assembled. I've sprayed the heck of of the mechanism and it still binds up quite often. I have to sit and work the lock bars back and forth about ~25 times to get the door to unlock. Then the door will work freely for ~25 times. It then does the magic bind all over again and won't budge. What the heeeeyyyyyy!!!!!!!!

I haven't even gotten to looking at the lock tumbler. It now spins freely and doesn't torque the mechanism, why, why, why.....

Next, the door handle on the outside has no torque and doesn't do a thing for opening the door.

Is it a hard thing to replace all the door lock parts?? Is it possible to open the door further than the little hole in the upper corner??

Thanks!!
 
Had the same prob myself in April last year. I posted a Q on it here and ScrantonScrambler posted some very helpful photos and notes.

Do a search on threads I've started or on posts by ScrantonScrambler to find them.

John
 
True that little round clip is a PITA:mad ...I can see it sliding about 1/2" and almost off the rod when I unlock the door. I'd like to press a new one on there before I get F'ed...but I haven't come up with a tool that will reach as of yet.
All in all the insides of my drivers door look a mess, all loose and wore from use. The pass side is still like new.
PS. I also squirted the snot out of everything (white greaes)...windows fly up and down now, and the key locks turn much easer. but I need to get a new round clip on asap.
 
HammerDown said:
True that little round clip is a PITA:mad ...I can see it sliding about 1/2" and almost off the rod when I unlock the door. I'd like to press a new one on there before I get F'ed...but I haven't come up with a tool that will reach as of yet.
All in all the insides of my drivers door look a mess, all loose and wore from use. The pass side is still like new.
PS. I also squirted the snot out of everything (white greaes)...windows fly up and down now, and the key locks turn much easer. but I need to get a new round clip on asap.
I used a pair of 6" long fishing pliers like you use to take hooks out of Pike with. They have a 15 degree bend in the tip. Hold on tight and press the clip up and wiggle it a little and it should slide on.
 
When I got my '72, both locks were seized and the driver's door wouldn't open. It finally came open and I just didn't lock either door again for a while. Then I ordered new lock cylinders and installed them. They wern't that expensive or hard to install.
 
wishuwerehere82 said:
I used a pair of 6" long fishing pliers like you use to take hooks out of Pike with. They have a 15 degree bend in the tip. Hold on tight and press the clip up and wiggle it a little and it should slide on.
Thanks I'll give it a try...question, anyone got a GM part# or know the exact size of the little push on retainer? Think I'll need a few as Im sure I'll drop more than one:eyerole
 
Door latches & locks

The73vetteman said:
Had the same prob myself in April last year. I posted a Q on it here and ScrantonScrambler posted some very helpful photos and notes.

Do a search on threads I've started or on posts by ScrantonScrambler to find them.

John

Hey guys, I've had the same problems on my 78 and 82. What I found on the 82 was that the drivers side door wouldn't unlock with the power locks when the car was off but would with the car running. Just had to make sure I locked and unlocked the doors before turning off the car. I've just checked out the thread that The73vetteman and ScrantonScrambler had last Apr 04 and there are excellent pics on how to open the latches. Thanks a lot guys!!!

On my 78 passenger door I pulled the inside door panel off, no easy fete with the door locked closed, triggered the latch to open and then removed the door latch and soaked it in carb cleaner overnight. I've then lubed it with white grease and it works great. Part of what happens with these latches is that the old grease and road grime freezes up the moving parts of the latch and makes them stick.
Cheers,
Cal
 

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