Door locks (1980)

[1980corvettegibson]

Im 22 and i have a 1980 Corvette. Ive had it since i was 18, but the door locks never worked on it. a couple of years ago someone stole my speakers out of it and i really would like to fix them myself. Ive had the door panel off a few times before to re-hook up the door handles. The door locks would lock when i pushed the inside button but they wouldnt unlock with the key. Lately though, the inside button doesnt even work. The local body shop said they might be able to fix it for $144 if its just the cylinders. But i dont know if it would be better to have it fixed or fix it myself. I was thinkin about puttin speakers back in it, so i wanted to fix it myself to have more money for speakers. If anyone has fixed their door locks and might have any tips i would really be greatful. Thanks

 

[80convertible]

I've messed around with my 1980 door locks. My passenger side would not unlock with the key. It turned out to be the linkage was slightly bent and hanging when trying to turn the key. I would suggest inspecting all the linkage. Trying turning the key and seeing how the linkage operates as the key turns. Always start with the easiest and least expensive first and work your way towards the more complex and expensive.

If the power door lock switch is failing it could be either the switch, wiring harness or the power door lock actuator. Also, if the left side (drivers) switch fails, it will cause the passenger side to not work even though the actual switch is still good. The passenger side gets power from the driver side, so the driver side has to be good in order for the passenger side to work.

 

[1980corvettegibson]

Wow, Thanks. Ill try that.

 

[Blue82]

Sometines my 82 gives me problems using the key on the drivers door. I don't really know how to explain what is causing the problem, but if you look at the edge of the door mechanism with the panel off, you will see a lever twist downward as you pull either door handle. This lever will meet the top of another small lever and push it downward as well. I have found that when you release the door handle and the levers move back upward to the original position, the lower one will not always fully return to the up position. When this happens the door can not be locked/unlocked with the key and it is difficult (sometimes not possible) from the inside of the car. If I lift it slightly (1/16" - 1/8") the door unlocks fine.

It took awhile to find the problem and I have no idea how to fix it. For now I have my door panel off. Eventually I think I'll have to find replacements for the lock mechanism and replace them.

 

[1980corvettegibson]

I took my panel off today and found that the gray wire is off the switch. I never got it back on the harnes when i held the wire to it and it still wouldnt work. I never could find the fuse to the door locks, but i fount alot of empty spaces where it might not even be. I have a book that shows the door lock wireing. The locks will still work with the key.

 

[Vette/Berlina-coupe]

-chronic problem with solonoid-locked C3's....

--believe this chronic-problem has been well address here in the past (probably by me at least) if you check-back, but sufice to say the electrical-grimlins are primarily in the Multi.female-contact/flat-plug that interfaces the door-button/switch's-prongs; -whereas their being pure-copper (not gold-plated) they are very prone to electrolysis-corrosion; --clean'em all up good and shinny and Volia, -like new until they eventually turn sour in a couple of years...
~Bob vH

 

[80convertible]

I took my panel off today and found that the gray wire is off the switch. I never got it back on the harnes when i held the wire to it and it still wouldnt work. I never could find the fuse to the door locks, but i fount alot of empty spaces where it might not even be. I have a book that shows the door lock wireing. The locks will still work with the key.[/QUOTE

You can purchase replacement male/female harness connectors for about $10.00. It is quite common for the wires to rip out of the connector, which I think is what you are describing. I replaced the connector and pigtail (wires) on both of my door locks. Look in any vette catalog.

 

[80convertible]

--believe this chronic-problem has been well address here in the past (probably by me at least) if you check-back, but sufice to say the electrical-grimlins are primarily in the Multi.female-contact/flat-plug that interfaces the door-button/switch's-prongs; -whereas their being pure-copper (not gold-plated) they are very prone to electrolysis-corrosion; --clean'em all up good and shinny and Volia, -like new until they eventually turn sour in a couple of years...
~Bob vH

Good point. I have fixed so many electrical problems simply by taking a pencil eraser and cleaning the contacts of various electrical connections/switches. A pencil eraser will make copper shine.

 

[kbrews]

I have a little different problem... someone snipped and stole the wiring harness ends for my electric door locks. It is a 1981. I have two new harness pig tails (a pair) that I bought. The problem is that the wire colors on the car are not the same as the new harness. So for the 5 stub wires I have haniging out of the driver's door... does anyone know how they physically map to the 5 terminals on the switch? The wire colors out of the door are black, orange, tan, blue, gray. Or if you know of an internet picture that I can link too that shows these 5 connections on the switch, and which goes to which... that would be great. thanks. kb

 

[craig32]

kbrews,
I had the same problem on one side. The reply I got is as follows: 'the orange and gray wires (the 2 on the one side) go to each of their respective colors, the other side purple to black, tan to tan and pink to blue. This would be for the DRIVER'S side. As for the passengers, the orange and gray are the same, but that's all I know! The two blacks are grounds but I don't know which is the 'odd man out' I actually gave up on the power locks when I changed a door, different harnesses so I just cut them all out. They either work 100% or 0%, everything has to be in order. Power locks make sense for a 4 door, but it's just as easy to reach over and lock the other door - just my opinion. If I can be of further help, feel free to ask.

Craig

 

[kbrews]

Power door lock switch terminals solved...

Craig, thanks for your feedback. I in fact figured it out.

It turns out that in the back of the red and white Corvette Shop Manual, there is a schematic that not only shows the connections, but it also shows the connections as they are on the physical power lock switch (5 terminals), and with the wire color codes. So once I found that, it was a breeze. All is working great now.
You are right, the color connections from one switch to the other are odd color connections. I don't know why they didn't just make them all color paired wires so they could be easily connected without a schematic. But the schematic solved my problem.
By the way, on the passernger side there are 3 black wires. In the group of 3 on the switch, it is the two outside wires that go directly to ground (screw to the door about 6 inches away), and the center black wire is the one that traverses back across to the driver's door. So if you ever need to work on that again, this is a note you might want to save.

Thanks again for taking the time to respond. If anyone is fighting this or a related power door lock problem, let me know. No need for us all to go thru the same (painful) research ! Keith