Dropping the transmission

[Stallion]

Okay, now it's time to take out the transmission (to get to the clutch). Just to go over it again, I un-bolt from the rear mount, then the mount on the bell housing (all the while having the engine supported on a stand/jack). Then twist the spindle out of the housing back, then slip the transmission down.

But, I know I'll have a floor jack under the transmission to take her out, but I'm having a hard time being able to menouver (sp?) the tranny to snake it out of the car. What do you think?

And another thing, I imagine that I should drain the transmission from its lube, right? Is the plug on the passenger's side and is it a square bolt (four corners)?

Thanks!

Stallion

 

[mfendley]

Remove the drive shaft and shifter before removing the the transmission mount. Once you remove the the mount, there is an adapter plate that goes from the mount to the cross member that has to be removed also. Then unbolt the transmission from the bell housing. I found it was easier to not use a jack under the transmission, since you have to spin the transmission 90 degrees as you pull it back. Once the input shaft clears the bell housing, then you pull the transmission forward. I did not find it necessary to drain the transmission first.

 

[GTR1999]

BE sure to either drain or tie theyoke in otherwise it could slip out when you're removing it and you'll get a nice 90wt bath.

The tranny weights 85- 100 lbs so be careful.You 'll need a clutch alignment tool or old inout shaft to re-install the tranny/clutch.

 

[Stallion]

When it says to remove the shifter, that's right up in the interior, right? Or can that be done under the car? In other words, where exactly do I unbolt the shifter from?

Also, since the tranny is that heavy, how will I be able to work with it like that (twisting, bringing it down, etc.)?

Thanks!

Stallion

 

[Chas]

been here...kinda,

my kid dropped the trans in his IROC Z-28 this last summer...alone...i tryed to assist but he needed to do it on his own. He had the car on jackstands and he balanced the trans on a floor jack, when it was time , he lowered the jack and eased it down.Before i knew it ,the trans was sitting next to the car on the ground...so becareful and take your time...i told him that somethings should be left to the pro's , but in the end it all worked out.good luck on this project.
Chas

When it says to remove the shifter, that's right up in the interior, right? Or can that be done under the car? In other words, where exactly do I unbolt the shifter from?

Also, since the tranny is that heavy, how will I be able to work with it like that (twisting, bringing it down, etc.)?

Thanks!

Stallion

 

[mvftw]

Vettedude, remember that most C3 4 spd. crossmembers don't come out. If it came out like on the Camaro it's an easier job. But I still give your son

 

[mfendley]

When it says to remove the shifter, that's right up in the interior, right? Or can that be done under the car? In other words, where exactly do I unbolt the shifter from?

Also, since the tranny is that heavy, how will I be able to work with it like that (twisting, bringing it down, etc.)?

Thanks!

Stallion

When I did mine last summer, I did some from the bottom (linkage rods and one of the shifter mounting bolts) and some from the top (the other shifter mounting bolt). Before you do anything from the top, I suggest removing the seats and center console. For my car, this only takes about 10 minutes. If yours is more difficult, you may consider leaving the seats in.

Mike

PS - the whole time you're twisting the tranny and moving it to the rear, its resting on the cross member. Only after the input shaft clears the bell housing and you pull the tranny forward do you have to bear the full weight of the tranny.

 

[BeaterShark]

My experience is with the Muncie, but I believe it is about the same.

I had to remove all of the brackets which hold the tranny and shifter to get the tranny far enough back to clear the pressure plate.

As for the manuvering of the tranny, I did it laying on the ground and "bench pressing" it out and then back in without a jack. I was 6'1", 165lbs when I graduated college, and am 10 years and 15lbs of fat gained since then and I had absolutely no problems with this method. I think that I read in another thread that the ST-10 weighs about 80 lbs, which is really not that much.

 

[Stallion]

When I did mine last summer, I did some from the bottom (linkage rods and one of the shifter mounting bolts) and some from the top (the other shifter mounting bolt). Before you do anything from the top, I suggest removing the seats and center console. For my car, this only takes about 10 minutes. If yours is more difficult, you may consider leaving the seats in...

I'm having a little trouble picturing the mount of the shifter. So there are only 2 bolts (besides the 3 linkages)?

 

[mfendley]

I'm having a little trouble picturing the mount of the shifter. So there are only 2 bolts (besides the 3 linkages)?

Yes, you've got it. Here's a picture:

 

[Stallion]

Okay, I circled the two bolts I think that are being referred to to disconnect and remove the shifter from (still not totally sure). Tell me if I'm right...

 

[JonM]

Just another tip...when I have dropped a tranny on my back...I jacked my floor jack under the tranny...tossed a small chain around the tranny and the jack, and bolted the chain togther. Then the tranny can't fall off the jack...I would also take the distributor cap and loosen it...just so it doesn't hit the fire wall and break.

 

[mfendley]

Okay, I circled the two bolts I think that are being referred to to disconnect and remove the shifter from (still not totally sure). Tell me if I'm right...

Yes, those are the two bolts.

 

[GTR1999]

You might not have to remove the tranny just for a clutch. On my 67 years ago we were able to slide it back and brace it to the cross member. Remove the bell housing and replace the clutch.
If you do remove the tranny then take a look at it for any leaks. You can also remove the side cover and look at the gears and syncros. The teeth tshould be sharp and not rounded,they look like a pentagon.
You should also replace the pilot bushing. Use a NAPA bushing not a "HP piece" from a catalog house. Check it with a magnet,it shouldn't be magnetic. I have some new bushings that have powdered metal in them and a magnet sticks to them.. This could cause a problem with the tranny input shaft when heat builds up.
Check the ring gear teeth and spend the $35 bucks to have the flywheel ground and the gear replaced if needed.

 

[Stallion]

Just another tip...when I have dropped a tranny on my back...I jacked my floor jack under the tranny...tossed a small chain around the tranny and the jack, and bolted the chain togther. Then the tranny can't fall off the jack...I would also take the distributor cap and loosen it...just so it doesn't hit the fire wall and break.

What does the distributor cap have to do with the transmission? I didn't think it was attached in any way. Or do you mean that the transmission supports the engine, and if let go then the cap will hit the firewall? I play on supporting the engine before removal of transmission. Is that what you mean? :confused

I'm going to try to get the shift off the transmission. Today I would like to dismount everything from the transmission. Besides the linkages and the shifter mount, that should be it, right?

 

[JonM]

Yes...I just suggest unhooking the cap so it doesn't hit the firewall...You don't have to take the wires off...just the clips. Once you get the linkage off...you should be able to drop the tranny...Then release the clutch fork and remove the bell housing...pay attention to the little things like how the clutch fork is connected to the ball socket...which way the springs on the clutch is mounted...so when you put it back togther you won't put it in backwards.

 

[GTR1999]

Jon did you have a shop in East Haven paint your car or did you do it?

 

[JonM]

Jon did you have a shop in East Haven paint your car or did you do it?

I did all the dismantling, sanding, prep, primer in my garage...then I brought it to a local shop where they let me do all the rest of the prep including taping it up...Then the guy shot it for me...then I put it all back together and buffed it out.

 

[Stallion]

Another question, I'm obviously going to have to support the engine before transmission removal, but where should I put the floor jack (with a piece of wood) on the engine to support it? I know the jack won't be holding all of the engine weight, but for instance, if I support the jack on the oil pan, I don't want to dent it in because of too much weight. So where should I support it?

And just a safety precaution, I know the tranny doesn't way that much, but will there be a terribly big weight distribution effect on the stands once the transmission is out? Or is that nothing to worry about?

 

[JonM]

What is going to happen once you take the tranny out is...the engine is going to pop back up...Myself, I usually stick a small 2x4 between the engine and the firewall so it doesn't pop up...this makes it easier to slide the tranny back in on an upward angle. It just gives me more room to maneuver the rear of the tranny in order to line it up, as opposed to pushing the rear of the tranny up against the floor tunnel. You can put a 1 foot square piece of plywood on the jack and it won't allow a dent to the oilpan. As a safty measure ...give the car a good violent shake while up on the jack stands...you will feel if its secure.