- Joined
- Jan 1, 2002
- Messages
- 7,246
- Location
- Washington, Michigan
- Corvette
- '67 Marina Blue Convertible
I use this "saddle" to support the engine - the base is a piece of 2x6, and the sides are 1x6 that sit on top of the base and are attached with 3"-long drywall screws driven up from the bottom. It snuggles up on each side of the oil pan, the sides are about an inch taller than the depth of the pan, and it supports the engine's weight on the pan rail, not on the pan - no marks, no dents. The notch on one side is for clearance at the "bump" for the dipstick tube.
When you install the new throwout bearing, make sure you do it correctly (the design allows it to be done wrong); the ends of the clutch fork AND the ends of the flat spring BOTH go inside the groove on the bearing; if you put it on with the "curls" at the end of the fork capturing the flange at the rear of the bearing, you won't be able to get the clutch adjusted. All three sides of the groove need a light coating of gray moly grease, same thing on the inside diameter of the bearing and in the groove in there, plus the recess in the clutch fork where the pivot ball rides.
When you install the new throwout bearing, make sure you do it correctly (the design allows it to be done wrong); the ends of the clutch fork AND the ends of the flat spring BOTH go inside the groove on the bearing; if you put it on with the "curls" at the end of the fork capturing the flange at the rear of the bearing, you won't be able to get the clutch adjusted. All three sides of the groove need a light coating of gray moly grease, same thing on the inside diameter of the bearing and in the groove in there, plus the recess in the clutch fork where the pivot ball rides.
I'm going to get a whole new clutch kit (pressure plate, throwout bearing, clutch disc, etc.) and replace it. But I'm just so scared that I will do all that and she still won't work. 
