?? Electric fan for C1

[fine59]

Has anybody put an electric fan on your C1? I need to get one soon, I'm runnin hot with my 283/230. It has always run hot but now I seem to be using it more in bumper to bumper traffic/parades/cruises. I have the Wetter Water additive in it but im still too warm for comfort. :W

 

[Verle]

Don't waste your money on additives, they are mostly snake oil.

I don't know of any fan with mount made specifically a C1.

Brackets for a front mount fan are easy to make. I installed a 15 inch (?, don't remember the exact size now) pusher on my 57.

I later installed two 11" fans behind the radiator. Again, I had to make the brackets. That turned out to be a real challenge to mount the fans and the fan shroud. I ended up replacing my original lower shroud and fabricating a complete lower to fit the fans.

If you are doing stop and go traffic or parades you almost certainly need electric fans.

You will also need to do some special wiring with relays for the fans and may need to upgrade your generator to an alternator to provide enough power.

Do not run the fans through any of your stock wiring harness for the high amperage side. Use a completely separate new, large gauge wiring harness for them.

Verle

 

[fine59]

It's been suggested to try an aluminum radiator, They said its 30% more efficient at cooling than the original copper. Does that sound reasonable? I wouldnt need to put more electrical load on the system by adding an elect fan that way. I dont like the idea of changing the gen to an alt, the car is mostly original.

 

[Verle]

A modern design aluminum radiator does a better job than present brass radiators.
The difference is in the manufacturing process; aluminum allows a better design because of process that will not work with brass.

Having said that, the aluminum radiator will not solve your low speed heating problems. If everything is working well, timing, mixture, etc, the only solution is more air flow. Since you are moving slow or setting still the fan must move the air through the radiator. If your engine fan is not adequate your choices are:

an electric fan on the radiator
someone walking in front with a big leaf blower
a nice rain/wind storm

 

[JohnZ]

I've never had a cooling issue in any of the many C1's I've owned, but all of them had re-cored original radiators, correct shrouds, and fans with the proper spacers that located the fan blades correctly (with the tips half-in/half-out of the rear edge of the shroud, as designed).

Airflow is king at low speed - if your car is set up properly as above and you still have an issue, you might try foam seals between the radiator and radiator support and between the shroud and radiator so all the air is forced through the radiator, not lost through the gaps. If that doesn't do it, you probably need a radiator (a DeWitts A55M aluminum looks dead-stock when painted black, and it's the last radiator you'll ever need).

 

[Verle]

I agree with JohnZ, DeWitts aluminum reproduction is the way to go. I have one in my 57 and everyone assumes it is an original. Cools very well.

I did everything on the list for cooling and still had to add fans for stoplight driving in hot weather (100s)

Verle

 

[Bob Willis]

When I put my 57 together I had the original water pump rebuilt and the rad recored. I've never had over-heating problems no matter how hot it was or how slow I drove.

Bob

 

[vette61]

I am having the same problem with my '61 with a 350. Have tried everything but an electric fan. I was told to install a pusher fan in front of the radiator, and use it with your stock setup but, there are two rod supports that cross in front of the radiator, and don't know how I would mount a fan.

 

[vette61]

I hate to bust anyone's bubble but, I tried water wetter, and then put in a De witt, didn't help at all.

 

[BarryK]

I hate to bust anyone's bubble but, I tried water wetter, and then put in a De witt, didn't help at all.

water wetter isn't a solution.
If a new DeWitts rad isn't helping and you still have cooling issues than there are definite other problems you haven't found yet in your cooling system you you need to go thru it step by step to eliminate all possibilities

 

[JohnZ]

It's been suggested to try an aluminum radiator, They said its 30% more efficient at cooling than the original copper. Does that sound reasonable? I wouldnt need to put more electrical load on the system by adding an elect fan that way. I dont like the idea of changing the gen to an alt, the car is mostly original.

Before you start throwing money at it, we need to know what your ignition timing setup is (retarded timing is a MAJOR contributor to "running hot").

What is your initial (basic) timing with the vacuum advance disconnected?

How much centrifugal does the distributor add, and at what rpm is it "all in"?

How much does your basic timing increase when you connect the vacuum advance?

 

[fine59]

Well, I did throw the money at it, Dewitts rad and fan combo is on the way. I'll let you know how I make out. Timing has been set to specs and played with to see if it changed the issue. No changes. Complete engine rebuild, new thermostat,cap,water pump,recored rad,new sender and nothing moves the needle. As soon as I get airflow under the hood, the engine cools right back down. Thanks TF

 

[coves4me]

fine59, A DeWitts radiator is a must. I run that radiator, the original four blade steel fan, an aluminum spacer and the factory fan shroud. Having said that, I found that if you don't close the gaps around the radiator on the front side, you pull air from everywhere!! First, check and make sure that the lower fiberglass valance is installed behind the license plate location. Many of these go missing. Buy some sheet rubber from a GOOD hardware store and make some panels that will close the gaps on the front sides and bottom of the radiator. There is a H-U-G-E gap under the radiator that lets air go under the car. I used weatherstripping glue and black silicone sealant to attach properly sized rubber panels around the radiator. This made a BIG difference in the temp of my car. It now stays rock steady at 180 to 200 degrees and never gets too hot......even in Texas traffic at 95 degrees and above. Of course, I sweat a lot, but that's a different story. Also, check your radiator cap!!!! I run a 13 lb. cap. Good luck.

 

[fine59]

All fixed

Happy to say the install was a success with no major issues. The car runs at least 20 degrees cooler. No problems at those pesky stop lights any more. I should have done this years ago. The rad looks stock but the removal of the original fan and shroud is a givaway that some updates were added. No worries for me in that department as this car gets driven not shown. Thanks to all for the kind words and ideas for solving this issue. The CAC is a great place for help when you need it. See ya TF