Engine belt pulley, jumping around

[ReggieD]

While driving, I noticed a rattle sound coming from my engine. My battery light came on and my steering became very hard.
I raised the hood and noticed the fan belt was barely turning. The main pulley attached to the engine was jump bouncing around, barely making contact with the belt to turn all the engine components.

I think some pulley bolts came out or are loose. What am I up against? Can a do-it-yourself guy like myself handle this job or do I need to leave it to the pros?

 

[tlong]

We need to know which pulley. There is a digram on the radiator. Can you identify the flaccid component?

 

[Robertwav1]

While driving, I noticed a rattle sound coming from my engine. My battery light came on and my steering became very hard.
I raised the hood and noticed the fan belt was barely turning. The main pulley attached to the engine was jump bouncing around, barely making contact with the belt to turn all the engine components.

I think some pulley bolts came out or are loose. What am I up against? Can a do-it-yourself guy like myself handle this job or do I need to leave it to the pros?

Sounds like it could be the balancer. If it's the pulley that's connected to the crank. Check the bolts...by all means. I would imagine the pulley on your car is two pieces....someone will chime in here to confirm that. Have you noticed any unusual vibration in the car at any speed at all?

 

[ReggieD]

main crankshalt / H. balancer pulley

It looks like the pulley that is attached to the balancer. It is the main pulley that drives all the other pulleys. It looks like the pulley is about to detach from the car. I would think that this pulley is screwed down to the balancer with one main bolt down the middle and/or smaller bolts screwed into the balancer.

The main (O.E.M. pulley attached to crankshaft / h. balancer .

I am only guessing.

How do I repair from this point.

( The only thing jumping around is the pulley, the balancer is tight and OK )

 

[tlong]

ReggieD I don't have a '92. Someone with a manual may be able to help, but I may have to suggest professional intervention on this. Do not drive it. Your attempt at repair if you don't have diagnostic capabilities and good mech skills will compound the repair and cost.

Has anyone worked on it before you can trust? I can't recommend anyone in Lawrenceville but TLD in Duluth/Norcross on I-85 does good work. Dealers can't be trusted unless you have a friend at one. David at Tom Jumper is fantastic but expensive.

Maybe someone has better advice or has had this happen to them. Hang in there.

 

[ReggieD]

Torsional Damper

I looked in my shop manual. It appears to be the torsional damper.
Maybe I can just tighten the main bolt.
Remove main bolt, apply loctite 565 to threads and tighten down to 19 lb ft.

Any advice....

 

[Rowdy1]

Why?

There has to be a reason it came loose. I'd start there, find out why it did, then see about the fix. Is the bolt still in the crank? Is it stripped? I don't know squat about the newer engines but I'm sure someone will be along shortly to help. There's also a keyway in the crank and pulley that needs to be examined closely but whatever you do, don't start it or drive it or you'll be looking at replacing the radiator and more, maybe a hood:ugh

 

[Ken]

The LT-1 damper is just like any other small block damper, Lou; the rubber ring deteriorates over time and the outer ring will slip. Mine was practically rubbing the timing chain cover when I pulled my L-98.

I had often wondered what the cause was for a mysterious vibration I was experiencing at the time. :L

 

[Rowdy1]

Got It

I missed the point here I guess. I was just so happy to have the sound back on the PC I wasn't reading right. Now we're talking a puller and a press on along with the bolt right?

 

[ReggieD]

I need a torsional damper expert...NEED INFORMATION

Ken is right.
"The LT-1 damper is just like any other small block damper, Lou; the rubber ring deteriorates over time and the outer ring will slip. Mine was practically rubbing the timing chain cover when I pulled my L-98."


My research has given me the following: The torsional damper is mounted to a hub with three bolts. The hub is mounted to the keyed crankshaft by one large bolt.

The verdict is in. I removed the fan belt to see what the problem was.

My hub was still securely mounted to the keyed crankshaft with the one screw. The damper housing was securely mounted to the hub with the three bolts. The damper is supposed to be one piece, mine was in two pieces. One piece was the outer body part which appears to be a fan belt pulley. The second piece was in inner piece which was a drum-like device. The drum was screwed to the hub with three bolts. The damper belt pulley and the drum should be one fixed assemble but on my car the belt pulley spins around the drum-like device. The device which connects both of these pieces together was grinded away. I need to replace the torsional damper. I need to talk to someone who is familiar with this problem.


I want to fix it myself. What secrets do I need to know before I start?
(My skill level..I rebuilded the engine in my Goldwing motorcycle 6 years ago by only reading a book, this is why I am asking questions)
This is a 1992, corvette

 

[ReggieD]

More questions

I found more information on removing the harmonic balancer. I have several questions.

What engine components do I need to remove to get a good clearance to make this repair?
My hub is still in tact with not problems. Can I just replace the balancers?
Just remove the three bolts, remove the balancer and replace with the new one.

Do I need a puller to remove the balancer only?
Do I need to remove the center screw to remove the balancer?

What type of balancer I should replace it with?
Manufacturer, part number, type, and price range?

Do I need to line something up before removing the balancer?

1992 vettte, LT1 engine

 

[Robertwav1]

All right...here's what I have done on other cars replacing the balancer. You need room to attach a puller on the balancer. You decide what needs to be removed to accomplish this. The bolt has to out of the center, usually very tough...impact usually don't do it. Carefully find the right size socket that fits the bolt...1/2" drive breaker bar will do with an extension that reaches the ground. Have someone crank the engine with a short burst...enough to crack the bolt loose. Pull it off and remount the new one. I always use neversieze on anything mechanical. I purchased a few through a good auto supply, that's up to you. Good Luck!

 

[Jeb]

Be sure to use a good socket, not some Ricer from the display wall at AutoZone.

Wear eye protection in case the socket explodes and sends shrapnel around the garage.

Make sure that whoever bumps the engine knows what he's doing or you're gonna have a hell of a mess to clean up. Crank it and and shut it down as soon as it fires. If that bolt isn't free by then, it isn't coming free.

Good luck.

P.S. When the socket is on the bolt and the handle of the wrench is installed, be sure it's on the right side of the bolt pointing down to about 4 o'clock with the tip of the handle against the floor. You don't want that puppy swinging around and then hitting the floor.

Stand back.

Please let us know how this comes out.

 

[ReggieD]

I am halfway there, can someome give me more technical advice

Today I removed the harmonic balancer with no problems. I did not need a puller, I did not raise the engine, I did not need a professional engine tech, I did not damage the crank, I did not damage the hub.

All I did was removed the three bolts that held the balancer to the hub. I snaked the bad component out without removing the water pump or opti-spark. The center rubber piece that held the harmonic balancer was completely gone. Harmonic balancer came off in two pieces.

I noticed an arrow on the balancer so I noted its location with respect to the hub. I also noticed the balancer has holes around to outer perimeter with one of the holes filled with a metal weight. It appears that this may be used to balance the balancer while on the car.

I need someone who understands this process so I can reinstall the new device correctly. I need information on how to reinstall correctly

Pictures enclosed

 

[I_R_DA_ONE]

When you replace the harmonic balancer,,, it should all line up with no problems...
but a secret is to turn the motor over where you can see the keyway...then mark the keyway on the outside of the balancer with a felt tip marker and it will all slide together.....but make sure you torque the large bolt to the proper specs...I don't know what it is on yours but it is a bunch....you don't want this to come loose
Mike

 

[Robertwav1]

Hey Reggie, is the hub still on the car...sounds like it is. You will need a puller to get it off the shaft. Did you get a new balancer yet? You will see then how the whole thing is made up. The hub has a key so there is no guess work on how it goes back together. Clean the shaft and also the bore in the new piece so it just about slides on with little effort. You can use the old key as long as it's not stepped or shows any wear.

 

[ReggieD]

Making it easy

It seems to me that it is easier if I keep the hub in place and install other working damper onto it. Just bolt the new damper down with the three bolts. The old hub is currently OK.
What is the disadvantage to this approach?

 

[Robertwav1]

When you get the new one, I would replace the whole thing...see what others think. That new piece usually comes with the hub and the whole thing is balanced as a unit. Unless you can buy it seperate. All the ones I have replaced were one piece and the pulley was the only thing that re-bolted back up. Maybe the configuration on the vette is different...anyone?

 

[ReggieD]

Back in business

I am back on the road again.

I changed everything...
Did it myself...Took me three weeks (Waiting for Parts).
1) Water pump
2) Harmonic Balance
3) Thermostat 160deg
4) Radiator
5) New Opti-Spark "DynaSpark"
6) Front and rear Brake shoes
7) Fuel Filter