Engine momentarily cutting out

[dennisb]

Both driving and idling, every minute or so, the engine cuts out as though its losing power. The ammeter drops to -15, the lights dim. It's just for a split second and it comes right back. Any ideas on what to check and/or how to isolate the cause?

 

[paul67]

That happened to me last year. It was a loose bulk connector at the ignition switch. The nylon locking tabs had broken off. A couple of small dabs of JB Weld now hold it in place.

 

[JohnZ]

I'd also take a look inside the inboard multiple connector on the engine side of the fuse block; the main feed to the ignition switch is in that connector, and corrosion-damaged terminals there are a VERY common C2 problem.

 

[paul67]

John makes a good point. I lost all electrical contacts to the front last summer as well. It was a prestige cruise event. Complete front-end electrical failure. Needless to say I was not impressive. And terribly red in the face. (How do the Corvette Gods time these things?) But again, a little clean-up afterward with emery cloth and di-electric grease (and yes, dabs of JB Weld) and all has been well since.

 

[dennisb]

OK, we checked all the connections at the ignition and the connector on the drivers side. Jiggled wires to see if we could find a loose connection. Checked each of the plugs/wires with timing light to make sure they were firing and not causing the problem. Disconnected the generator to make sure it wasn't part of the problem. Replaced the fuel pump. Still having the problem. From all this, it does not seem to be ignition related or starving for fuel. Yet at idle, it will shut off but then it will start right back up.

Other ideas and/or things to check/recheck?

 

[WayneC]

Possibly a bad battery; a loosened or corroded battery cable connector; battery cable shorting to the battery hold-down bracket; voltage regulator.

Release/remove the two main cables going into the firewall connectors on the driver's side and inspect for corrosion.

 

[JohnZ]

I failed to note that you have a C1, not a C2. Sounds ignition-related. Clean connections at horn relay (source of power to the ignition switch), check ballast resistor (back side) for corrosion/intermittent connection, wire from there to the coil (+) terminal, small black primary wire from the coil (-) to the distributor, black ground wire in distributor from breaker plate to housing, wire connections to terminal on points connector, etc. Could also be the coil.

 

[dennisb]

In future posts, I'll be sure to specify it's a 61. I know there are different possiblities based on year. We did check the coil and ballast resistor and they checked out ok. Will check the rest of the suggestions. Stay tuned because I will respond one way or the other. Hopefully, the response will be "we found the problem". Thanks for all the ideas.

 

[paul67]

My apologies for bad advice. I was thinking C2.

 

[dennisb]

Problem Solved

I thought I'd give an update for all those who kindly offered suggestions. Turns out to have been a problem with the rotor. There was a carbon buildup on the inside of the cap and the rotor was hitting it and sparking. We put a new rotor and cap on it and everything is working fine. Put new spark plug wires on while we were at it.

Thanks again for all the thoughts and suggestions. If nothing else, it helps eliminate possibilites.

 

[IH2LOSE]

I thought I'd give an update for all those who kindly offered suggestions. Turns out to have been a problem with the rotor. There was a carbon buildup on the inside of the cap and the rotor was hitting it and sparking. We put a new rotor and cap on it and everything is working fine. Put new spark plug wires on while we were at it.

Thanks again for all the thoughts and suggestions. If nothing else, it helps eliminate possibilites.

Dennis sorry I did not have answer for you or a valid suggestions,But from the repairs you have done above,they would correct a poorley running car.not a car runnign good and then just shutting off. I hope you have it,But it just dosent sound right