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Engine Removal Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter Larry Langley
  • Start date Start date
L

Larry Langley

Guest
Hi all!

I have been doing some winter/spring work on my 1972 SB Coupe (AUTO,A/C,PS,Std Brakes, Base engine). Started out by needing to R&R the heater core due to a leak. After much foul language, I finished that job and while installing the new heater hoses I decided to replace the leaky power steering valve. Once under the car, that simple job transformed into a R&R the whole front suspension, steering and brake systems. Most of you know how that goes. The car, at 33 years old, is basically sound but needs refreshing in a number of ways. Lars has helped me with some suspension questions. Anyway, I have all the new parts accumulated and the "A"-Arms, springs, steering knuckles and spindles are back from the machine shop nicely blasted w/new bushings and ball joints. Now for my question---------!!!

As I have spent a good deal of time looking at things under the front end, I am thinking about pulling the mill, before I reinstall the above mentioned front end components, and having it rebuilt and balanced by the machine shop. Looks like a relatively simple job to pull the engine but I am wondering--how have some of you supported and transported your engines to and from the machine shop. Any advice for a weekend mechanic regarding this or any matter related to pulling an engine? I thank you for your replies. If you wish, you can email me at the following:

lnlangley@prodigy.net


Larry
 
I TRANSPORTED MINE TO AND FRO IN THE BED OF MY TRUCK ON AN OLD TIRE.....and NO I dont live in West Virginia.....heehee
 
I took the passenger seat out of my 1987 LeSabre, opened the door and set the block in with my cherry picker(without heads, crank, oil pump and bearing caps on it).:)
 
waterboy1976 said:
I TRANSPORTED MINE TO AND FRO IN THE BED OF MY TRUCK ON AN OLD TIRE.....and NO I dont live in West Virginia.....heehee
No kidding ... this works just fine ... regardless if you're in Westwood or West Virginia.
JACK:gap
-edit-if you're gonna use a cherrypicker ... some don't have enough reach to go straight into bay from front of car ... with those you have to go into bay from side.
 
After several engine swaps, the ol tire is your best bet. get a decent beefy 15" or so. drop the oil pan right in the hole! I would also suggest new motor mounts while you are at it. I went with the polyurethane. support the tranny, label all connects. remove the hood, blanket the fenders and front bumper.
 
Thanks for your replies! It looks like that it will be the "old tire" method for me.
 

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