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Engine & Transmission removal question?

tntcorvette

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2002
Messages
604
Location
Chicago, Il
I have not looked in the shop manual regarding this but when I pull the motor and transmission out of my car will I be able to move the car with the center beam that connects the transmission to the rear differential?

I am going to pull my motor and transmission and sell it but i'll need to temporarily transport the car on a flat bed tow truck or car trailer.


Thanks!
 
I did not move my car much when I had them out. I also removed the torque beam, which is only two more bolts, as long as the exhaiust system is out. Mine was.

The diffy cover holds the differential in place and the torque beam functions as it is labelled, while stiffening the drivetrain. With the limited movement it sounds like you are planning, I would think you are okay, but would either remove or support the front of the beam somehow. Either will reduce the moment applied (remember physics?) to the aft diffy mount, preventing excessive stress and possible breakage. The distance and roughness involved in the transport would surely direct my approach to this.
 
Thanks for the info. Looks like the torque beam needs to come out too.
 
You had a seemingly hot setup in there. Whatcha gonna install?
 
U should be able to move no problem.

Why u selling the engine and trans? If it is original u are giving away alot of your cars value. Just my .02

:beer
 
Well I have some emission issues and have a thirst for more power.

So im stuck and have to make a decision sooner or later.

To make power and be emission compliant forced induction is the only way to go. So im debating weather to go twin turbo or supercharger with a cog belt drive.

The top end will consist of Brodix -18 SPX 18* cylinder heads resting on top of a forged 383 sbc. Hydraulic Roller cam with crazy lift and mannerable duration. This is the kit from Jegs:

158-9991002
Brodix 18 SP X Combo

Kit Includes:
18 SP X Heads
Intake
Valve Covers
Head Gaskets
Intake Gaskets
Exhaust Gaskets
Carburetor Gaskets
Valve Cover Gaskets
Head Bolts & Washers
Intake Bolts
Spark Plugs
Brodix Hat



This wouild be a carb/efi conversion using my current 58mm throttle body.

Looking to make +800 hp at the crank and pass emissions.

Either that or sell the car, grab a modded LPE ZR1 and a car note for a year! Im still debating all that but having the baddest '85 Vette has always been a dream of mine plus I just got the car painted.

Work keeps me busy so we will see what happens.
 
tntcorvette said:
To make power and be emission compliant forced induction is the only way to go. So im debating weather to go twin turbo or supercharger with a cog belt drive.

Each turbo (not known yet) should be able to support 200 hp and with the above mentioned intake and heads it should not be a problem. DFI would be a must.
 
The big advantage that the twin turbo setup over the supercharger is the power loss by supercharger being driven by the crankshaft.

Every bit helps!
 
Twin turbo is the only way to go blowers never hold the belt on and it will take 100 hp when it makes 245 hp to operate it you can always juice it later if needed.But the block will not hold up if you use a chevy you will need a dart block.
You could use a chevy block but you would have to fill it with concrete.
I think you will have to run 2 sets of injectors and at least 1/2 inch fuel lines, not to mention you will be looking at around 150 psi on the fuel pump at full boost?
Banks has the turbos and it is around $40,000 to buy their motor with turbos installed.
Good move if you can aford it.
 
I have to agree with redc4 that u will need a better block than a stock chevy to handle the kind of power you are looking for. I think you would be better served selling the 85 and buying an already modified car like a TT Callaway. 800 hp in a 383 SBC even with turbos is not gonna be very streetable IMHO. Maybe it is just me but I cannot see anyone being able to utilize 800 hp anywhere but a track. I would think a slightly modified TT Callaway with say 500 hp would be a good choice.

:beer
 
800 hp out of a blown 383 with streetable manners is pretty much out of the question.

Twin turbo is the only way to go. I will not need 2 sets of injectors to handle the power. A friend of mine named Monty has a t.t. 427 c.i. small block chevy in his 82 vette that made 1200 hp on low boost. Check out http://montygwilliams.com/

Im not sure if he still has the car or not but it is proof that 16 injectors is not needed, but also confirms that a upgraded fuel system (from the tank to the fuel rail) is a must.

It will not cost $40 to do this motor. I am confident that I can build the motor, turbos, headers, intercooler, built 4L80E, FAST ECM and TCI trans controller, torque converter, etc, etc, etc all in the car for under $20K Not to mention a dana 44.

800 hp does sound crazy for every day use but the good thing about turbos and superchargers is the power is not there until the boost kicks in and you start to spin the motor. Under 2500 rpms these engines are quite mannerable. Assuming there is no radical camshaft.

Guys the key factor to making this power is the twin turbos, turbo headers, intake, cylinder heads and engine management. The rest just falls into place.
 
TNT I wish you all the best on your endeavour. Engine sounds like it will be quite the piece of art. Gonna need some really sticky tires to keep the power to the ground. I suspect that this car will spin the tires even off boost. Having had a modified 87 GN I know turbos are very fun but also very unpredictible even with a good boost transition.

I went on your friends site. Boy that is a nice looking install. As I read the page I noticed he said even at 5psi boost the car was a handful. Hate to see what it would be like at say 15 psi


:beer
 
Nicely done '82!

My engine puts over 500 flywheel and passes SoCal SMOG, which most said could not be done. I neither know Chicago SMOG law or how much more room you have before hitting the 'power/SMOG ceiling'.

I know:
1) my rear end broke and many predicted a hardened 44 would also break,
2) that first gear is only useable with less than full throttle,
3) that I have $20000 in my 'new' car, incl. new leather + foam,
4) it was a real ***** getting a good chip guy,
5) I probably should have used a smart, DFI computer,
6) I should have bought a newer car,
7) somethings are now broken,
8) and bigger things are about to break,
9) I should've bought a newer car, that I could enjoy ALL the time, not fix.

Good luck, and enjoy! :w
 
WhalePirot said:
9) I should've bought a newer car, that I could enjoy ALL the time, not fix.
But Mike, where's your "hot rod/gearhead" spirit? You oughta know we gearheads are never really done. :bu
 

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