Engine VIN Number Missing

[Rab563]

I have a '72 LT1 coupe. My problem is that the motor has been rebuilt or replaced at sometime and the VIN number on the engine pad is gone. Does anyone know how raise the numbers so I could find out if it is the original block. Any help is greatly appreicated.

 

[Eric]

Once the motor has been "decked" there is no way to know what numbers were present prior to the machining process. The closest you can come is to verify the date the motor was cast which is found by reading the codes at the back of the block on the drivers side just in front of the bell housing. I don't have the numbers handy but I'll look them up when I get a chance. In the meantime perhaps someone else who has them handy will post.

Oh yeah, welcome to the CAC!

 

[Robert N]

First, don't feel too bad....mine is a 70 LT-1 with a replacement engine. Second, check the block codes as suggested. If they fall in line with what should have been in the car, there is an acid treatment that can be used. Some machine shops, engine builders may be able to perform this test. It is very similar to what the police use to raise serial numbers filed of guns and such.

Regardless, as long as the car is well documented, it will retain much of its value.

 

[Rab563]

The date code of my block is L50. Which should be 12/5/70 for the casting date. Is this to old for a 1972 car? The casting number of the block is 3970010. This is correct as far as I can tell.

Thanks for the help,

RAB563

 

[Robert N]

The block has the correct casting code but the date code indicates an early 1971 car. Generally, the date code needs to be within 6 month of the manufacture date. On the drivers door pillar (at the windshield) there should be a metal tag. On the top right of the tag, there is a code with a letter and number (mine is F29). The letter is the month the body was installed and the number indictaes the date (Mine is June 29). Finding the correct block, if desired is possible for about $500. I have an early 1972 block in mine, so it could be a replacement for yours. Once I get ready (few years) to build mine correct, it willl be for sale if solid.

As for the deck stamp, they can be restamped as long as any potential buyer knows this (fraud otherwise). If you are concerned about NCRS restoration, the blank pad is an 88 point deduction so Top Flight is still possible. For that matter, Top Flight is still possible with the block you have.

I know this only becuase I am, as mentioned before, in the same boat.

I have the Judging guide for numbers if other help is desired. It is a good purchase.

Robert
yrls@gci-net.com

 

[jmp]

My 72 LT-1 has the block number but no VIN too, but this was because a previous owner improperly stored the vette over the winter and the block cracked. So my block is a correct replacement block and therefore does not have a VIN. Could this be your situation too? As opposed to having had the VIN shaved or filed off, I mean? This might explain the casting date too.

 

[Rab563]

I live out in California so having the block crack is not likely. I am pretty sure now that it is a replacement block and not the original. The car came with the correct intake but the heads were wrong. I have since came upon a correct set of heads luckly in a swap meet in Turlock, Ca a couple of weeks ago.

Thanks for all your help.

Ron

 

[jmp]

I didn't mean your block would necessarily have been cracked from cold weather, but that it isn't the original block (as is the case with mine, where the original did crack due to cold weather -- which is more detail than you need to know, but I thought it added a personal touch to my message! )

And I see that your block turned out not to be original, so problem solved!

 

[Robert N]

Several things to keep in mind. If the car is well documented, matching numbers are less important unless you are after a full NCRS resto. The next buyer will have the option and be able to purchase the car less than a full numbers match, and if you never sell..no biggie.