Exhaust bolts...having a tough time getting them out

[vette-dude]

Also, use a six point socket not a 12 point as the six point will grip the head of the bolt/nut better and will keep you from rounding the blot/nut head off. ad Ain't nothing worse than a rounded off bolt/nut head in a place you can't get to. The ratchet wrenches can be procured at Harbor Freight for about $10. Sizes are 1/4" to 3/4". Not the quality of a Snap-On but they work well. Good luck and take your time.


Randy

 

[Stallion]

Thanks, guys. I just bought a can of PB Blaster and I'll be heading over to the garage in a little while. I'll keep you guys updated on the exaust removal. Hopefully this blaster does the trick..

 

[Culprit]

Stanley brand gear wrenches at Wal-Mart on sale are one of the best things I've spent money on in a long time - almost as good as the PB Blaster!

I also got an adapter - Craftsman brand. Don't know what it's called, but it fits into a socket and has a hex head allowing you to turn a socket with a open end/box end wrench where you don't have the space to fit a thick ratchet. A set of 3 for 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drive was about $10.

Are y'all getting any more snow up there Stallion? The radar map looks like you might be. I love home, but being stationed down here does have advantages. I won't tell you that I drove around with the T-tops off this weekend.

Semper Fidelis,
Culprit

 

[Stallion]

Sounds nice, Culprit.

Well, I'm having still having troubles with those bolts. The Blaster helped for some, but not all of them. I have all of the post-cat exaust out, now its just the cat and the pipe where both exaust manifolds join. But those are the rustiest.

So I guess I'll have to get the torch out? I don't need to get the bolts red hot, do I? I just need to get them heated up? And that will do the trick? This will work?

 

[AKRAY4PLAY]

i would warm them up until the metal starts turning color. you will see through the flames, stop when you detect any color change. them squirt the **** out them with PB-B. the heat will draw the oil into the threads, and cool the bolts enough to work on. i would not go over 200 degrees in temp, the bolts will be soft and run a higher chance of twisting off. hope things work out.

if you break some studs and have to remove the manifolds from the heads, get a manifold spreader tool. it is a tool that works like a tie-rod and spreads the manifold ports apart to ease side pressure on retaining bolts. if you don't use it, you will run the high risk of galling the bolt and head threads. write back if you have to go that route, we'll get you covered. Brian

 

[Stallion]

I guess I will have to warm them up and hit them with PB Blaster. That seems like the next route to take. Hopefully that will do the trick. Although those top two bolts on the flange are going to be a problem I know.

 

[crause]

My 75 has an access door under the passengers seat that I was told is to get to the cat. convt.. I don't know about your 78 but they should be a lot alike. Just a thought.

Andy

 

[Stallion]

Get outta here!! Are you serious? Hmmm, I'll have to take a look.

 

[crause]

I know what you mean. When I was replacing the insulation under the carpet I found the door which was sealed with some type of orangish colored puddy. It looked like a factory job, that is, it didn't look like some bubba cover up. I posted a thread asking and someone told me it was an access door to the cat. conv.


Andy

 

[Stallion]

Well, I don't think it's worth ripping up the carpet for. I didnt' realize that you would have to. So I think I'll just try go get a good grip on those harder bolts.