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fender replacement advice



A buddie of mine purchased a 78 that needs The fender & door replaced & some glass repair.

I'm familiar with working on C-2s.But I see that some bonding adhesives and resin are listed to use on 73-82 smc panel.
The local paint store says this only applies to the '84 and newer cars. Whats the scoop on this?
What products should be used?
Is 73-82 glass different than the older cars?
We picked up a used fender(upper and lower)
The plan so far is to cut the fender 1/2 way
thru the headlight opening,break it loose from the bond on the header bar,
Fit new fender and bond it on.
then grind down the seam to the bonding and fill with cloth and resin.
We got to get this project in gear soon springs coming.

ALL advice is appreciated.
thx. rod

Welcome to the forum, Rod. This sounds like a question for Steve (SSVette). Maybe we can get him to weigh in on this.

Fiberglass and SMC are two different animals. SMC (sheet moulded compound) is smooth on the backside and fiberglass is somewhat rough. SMC was only used on Corvettes after 1984 (thay I'm aware of). SMC can be easily bonded, Duramix makes a good product. Most of the bonding agents cannot be painted over with much success, so make sure what product you are using. The adhesive (bonder) is used for attaching parts and as a backer (used on non showing parts). It is a high stregenth material used for structural repairs. I use SEM high strength fillers for areas that show. But it sounds like you are dealing with fiberglass, there are many products for them also, just check with a good automotive paint supply store for guidance.
Moffit is absolutly correct. I use to use Duramix exclusily(this stuff will hold anything down). However, as moffit said you can not paint it. So now I use "ever coat" fiberglass bonding adhisive(I'll get you the number later) it mixes just like bondo and is the same type bonding adhisive as was used at the factory. Since useing the Ever Coat I have had no problems with paint or filler not sticking. Now, about the attaching itself. I grind the bonding strip clean, then fit the piece at least three times to make sure it fits correctly, then apply the bonging adhisive to the bonding strip, put the fender on and screw it in place with screws and large flat "fender" washers. As soon as the adhisive is cured, remove the screws, (do not leave any metal in the repair). Then grind out just enough to make the seam a tad under flat and fill with lite body filler(allow for any shrinkage)then just prime and paint the car(sounds easy don't it:))Rod, I hope this helps. If you need anymore help I may have some pictures that I can post and make it a little more under standable........Let me know if there is anything else that I can do to help.........Steve
Would there be any problems splicing the fender thru the headlight area? Seems like less body work.
The way this is damaged you have to do a splice part way up
the front of the wheel well or do it more forward.(the back 3ft of the fender is gone).
If this is regular fiberglass I know how to work it.I did a lot on my '64.
What thru me off is on the Ecklers catalog they list a product Fusor SMC repair & panel installation adhesive.
"Ideal for panel replacement on 73-82 corvettes" that made
me think 73-82s have SMC.
We don't want anthing to come back in a couple of years .
thx again. rod.

Moffitt and Steve give good advice. I used Evercoat products on the '59 years ago. I wouldn't think you would have any problem seaming through the headlight area with the bonding strips and headlamp panel there for support. I've cut some apart in some really wierd places before just beacuse it would be easier to finish or fit a repair panel in. The panels I have mostly used were cut from wrecks or parts cars so the seams were where I made them.

Thanks Moffitt and Steve for the input.

If you make a splice anywhere other then a factory splice, then you would use the fiberglass resin and strands. Also, if you want(and this is a good idea and will give more support) use an old piece of the fender as a bonding strip. This will give more support at the repaired location(only draw back here is, it is easy to see from the bottom). Then just use the adhisive just like you would on the bonding strip. As Tom said, try to make any non factory splices where you have plenty of room to work the splice........Steve

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