First Post, Caliper question

[OldSchool]

Hey guys I've been 'lurking' for a little while now on this forum and I have to say there is is a ton of knowledge here. I have come over from the "darkside" read Porsches and VWs to realize my childhood dream of a Corvette. I purchased my first one last March, a 71 convert, and had a geat summer with it. After sitting this winter, I noticed that there was a small puddle under the pass side rear wheel, and believe that the caliper is leaking. I started to remove the 2 bolts that hold it on and discovered number 2 is round. What are my options? How hard is that trailing arm to pull out? My thinking is to pull the whole thing out where I can get my hands on it. Is it worth the trouble, orr should I continue with heat, penetrating oil, and a set of EZ outs?? :confused

 

[a69vette]

Removing the trailing arm was easy for me...It's putting it back in that gets exciting. The nut is on the outside, so the bolt has to go in to the frame. Removing the bolt isn't to bad, but you have to also watch out for your alignment shims. When you get the bolt out part of the way, grab the first set of shims. Keep them in the order them came out in. Continune removing the bolt, and the trailing arm will come free. Grab the second set of shims and do the same. Mark them so you will know the inside set from the outside. When I pulled mine out, I ended up putting in all new shims and taking it to the alignment shop. I have discovered a neat trick to putting the bolt back in. 1st, Take some 40lb fishing line and tie it thru the key hole on the bolt. 2nd, Feed the fishing line thru the frame (the inside) into the trailing arm cavity. Now fish it thru your trailing arm, and finally back thru to the outside. 3rd. Slide the trailing arm back up near the frame and pull some of the fishing line tight. Now toss the bolt up into the frame. Pull the fishing line untill the tip of the bolt is just starting to appear in the cavity. Lift the trailing arm up into the hole and pull the fishing line. The bolt should follow thru the arm and come out thru to the other side. 4th, Put your shims back in place, install the nut and head for the alignment shop.
When I rebuilt my calipers I went to VetteBrakes and got their "O" ring set. Much better performance.
Good luck. It's a lot of fun...........
Rick

 

[mapman]

Sears sells some bolt removal tools that look like sockets but the inside is "fluted" so that as you turn the "socket" it grips the bolt harder. It is too easy to break off an "easy out" and then it is a PITA to remove as the "easy out" is so hard to drill.

I would try these "sockets" before removing the trailing arms. Removing the trailing arms is ok if the whole arm needs to be rebuilt, if just the rear wheel bearings need to be rebuilt then you can remove just the bearings and leave the arm attached to the car.

Van Steel sells a video on suspension rebuild that is very informative.


Use some PB Blaster on those bolts first. The "sockets" should do the job. Van Steel (and others) have replacement bolts - I think they are 7/16" - 20 tpi x 1 1/8".