A friend of mine from Australia is planning on getting a trailer and asked for some things to look for. In case this helps with your choice this is the message I sent him. Some might be additional information to what's already been posted while other suggestions are pretty consistent to what's already been said.
"We've had our current Renegade trailer for three years now and we use it for the long distance shows. It really comes in handy when going to shows during the winter as well as keeping the car safer for over-night stays on longer trips during the summer. While we drive the cars for local shows and cruise nights it's nice to do the prep work at your leisure in the garage and not on the showfield, at least for the long distance shows, and a trailer makes this doable.
Trailers come in many sizes but we've found that at least a 20' box will hold any Corvette and still give you enough room to hold other things you bring. Going much larger is usually unnecessary and just adds to the weight and makes parking more difficult. This trailer has a 24' box and is a "wide body" at 102" wide. It has a "beaver-tail" rear ramp door and a side access door. It's all aluminum including the frame and the exterior wall panels are assembled like an airplane with no screws and a one piece roof. It is quite a bit lighter than the steel framed Haulmark trailer we used to have and it's wedge shape in front really helps the stability. It also has a front closet which is great for storage. In the closet I installed wire bin shelves on one side and a panel on the other with hangers for the tow straps and other tools (jack handles, wheel chocks, etc.) which keeps things organized and handy.
Most of today's trailers come with a "beavertail" style pull down rear door which is best as it also functions as the drive up ramp. They also usually have a side entry door which is a real necessity. Some of the them also can have another drivers side door as an option which can allow you to open that door as well as your car's door to make it easier to get in and out. That was especially important on the narrower bodied trailers but the wide body units can reduce the need for that on many cars. I do find though that the C1, with it's thicker doors and especially with a hardtop in place, requires a little more space than the C2's. It's still doable though. Another thing to watch for is the height of the trailer inside wheel wells. They should be low enough to allow your car door to open over them. I have seen others with taller wheel wells where the car door will hit them and limit the space you have to get in and out of the car.
When looking for a trailer it's pretty much like looking for a new car or truck; lots of options to consider. It's amazing how little a unit comes with as standard equipment unless there is some sort of package on certain models. The spare tire, for example, would seem like a no-brainer but they aren't usually included. Neither is a hydraulic jack in case you do have a flat. Most trailers come with a crank style tongue jack. If your back is anything like mine something easier to use is nice. On this one I use a hydraulic type jack which works well. There are also electric units. You also have to make sure the trailer has sufficient capacity axles to carry the weight of the car as well as any gear. The ones on this unit are made by Dexter and have an "Easy Lube" design for greasing the axle bearings.
Some of the things to consider in the setup, and the more useful options, would be: spare tire, trailer jack, rear trailer stabilizer jacks (stabilizes the trailer if you are loading or unloading while unhooked), hydraulic or electric tongue jack, interior lights, front stone guard, break-away control, wheel chocks and locks, hitch lock, four ratchet type tie down straps (10,000 lb capacity each), winch, tire covers (during storage), trailer vents and good tow vehicle "camper style" mirrors. You might also want to consider getting a vinyl floor inside as it keeps things cleaner and it's much cheaper than adding it later. On this one I installed carpeting which also works real well. The carpeting has much less weight and is warmer especially when strapping the car down in the cold weather. You also need a good brake controller. I now use the Tekonsha Prodigy unit which works real well. Some vehicles, with the trailer towing option, are all set up for this and allow you to plug right into their pre-installed harness using the appropriate adaptor which simplifies the setup.
The other major consideration is the style and rating of the hitch, weight distribution setup and the sway control. The hitch should be a Class IV or V with a weight distributing setup. Adjusting the tension on the weight bars is also important as is setting the height at the hitch ball. The trailer should be very close to level when loaded with the car. Otherwise you can experience some sway. If anything, have the trailer hitch a tad (one inch) higher than the tow vehicle ball. You can get ball mounts which are adjustable to get the ball at the right height. On the sway control I use a "Dual Cam" style. Reese and Draw-Tite are two brands to look for.
Just to round out the practical things you might need, I also carry a pretty complete tool box, fire extinguisher, hand cleaner, paper towels and have mounted hooks for clothes. I have also found the winch to be real handy especially when moving a non-running car or chassis from place to place.
To tie the car down I like the ratchet type straps on all four corners. Some tie-down sets come with only two ratchets and two manually adjustable straps and you have to adjust the length of the front two straps which is a pain. The ratchet type lets you get the right tension easily on all four corners. It's best to mount the straps to the suspension which allows the car to move on it's suspension while not affecting the tension on the straps. My wife make pads to go over the straps to avoid any scratching which might happen where they go around the suspension. Straps which are rated at 10,000 capacity each are a good idea as it's not just the standing weight of the car but the weight in motion should you need to make a sudden stop. When loading the car I've found that getting in the right position is made much easier by fastening a tire chock to the floor in front of the drivers front tire. It helps get the car in the same place each time.
There are other trailer options like cabinets, workbenches, closets and finished walls/ceiling but they are not essential. Another real handy accessory is to install a camera on the back of the trailer. Our camper had one and I found one from Camping World for the truck. It has a TV monitor in the truck cab along with an intercom. It makes backing easier and it's also great to be able to see directly behind the trailer when going down the road especially when pulling out to pass or pulling back in. I also mounted a camera under the rear bumper of the truck which takes care of that blind spot when not towing the trailer."
Well, that's been our experience and I hope it helps to give you some different perspectives and things to consider. Best of luck with your search.
Rich Lagasse
