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for 67Heaven

Joined
Apr 2, 2004
Messages
4,611
Location
Newark, Delaware
Corvette
1965 Coupe L76 / 1978 L82
Hi Bob

was just curious........
Now that you finished 67Heaven and have gotten some milage on her including a few long trips to BG and Carlisle, does she meet your every expectation that you hoped for or are there changes you have planned already for a winter project(s) to improve any areas you may not have been totally happy with?
 
Hi Barry,

I have a few projects lined up for the winter.

#1 - steeroids steering conversion. I'm still unhappy with the darty feeling I get on roads with large truck ruts. The wide front tires want to follow the ruts, even if I don't.

#2 - I'll remove the windshield again to solve the stainless retaining clip problem. I'm still unsatisfied with the way the windshield stainless fits and I'm afraid it's the clips.

#3 - I've got larger rear tires that I'd like try to squeeze under there. First gear is useless.

#4 - deal with a lazy passenger-side headlight door. I'm not sure why, but the door needs a little assistance to open or close. While someone holds the open/close switch on, all I have to do is lightly spin the manual override wheel and the motor then does its thing. :confused In case anyone is wondering, I already rotated the gear 180 degrees.

#5 - Try to decide on a solution for playing MP3 music files in the car. No, not for when I'm driving. ;LOL

#6 - Wax the underside. ;)

I've decided against aftermarket air. Two things have become obvious to me over the summer. 1) I got acclimatized; 2) the young ladies seem to like a midyear driver who knows how to sweat. :naughty:

P.S. If I really get bored waiting for spring, a cam change is a possibility.
 
looks like you have enough to keep you busy.
Sounds like overall though most of the major work you did you are happy about :beer

I really noticed your #2 issue. When my car was painted we reinstalled all new clips, screws and all but one piece of the SS windshield trim is new and I've noticed that it doesn't want to sit as flush to the body as it did previously - even the one piece that was on there before.

I have a few suggestions for you on #5 also if you are interested. if so just email or PM me.
 
67HEAVEN said:
Hi Barry,

I have a few projects lined up for the winter.

#1 - steeroids steering conversion. I'm still unhappy with the darty feeling I get on roads with large truck ruts. The wide front tires want to follow the ruts, even if I don't.

#2 - I'll remove the windshield again to solve the stainless retaining clip problem. I'm still unsatisfied with the way the windshield stainless fits and I'm afraid it's the clips.

#3 - I've got larger rear tires that I'd like try to squeeze under there. First gear is useless.

#4 - deal with a lazy passenger-side headlight door. I'm not sure why, but the door needs a little assistance to open or close. While someone holds the open/close switch on, all I have to do is lightly spin the manual override wheel and the motor then does its thing. :confused In case anyone is wondering, I already rotated the gear 180 degrees.

#5 - Try to decide on a solution for playing MP3 music files in the car. No, not for when I'm driving. ;LOL

#6 - Wax the underside. ;)

I've decided against aftermarket air. Two things have become obvious to me over the summer. 1) I got acclimatized; 2) the young ladies seem to like a midyear driver who knows how to sweat. :naughty:

P.S. If I really get bored waiting for spring, a cam change is a possibility.

Regarding #4: But Boss! If you fix that you won't need me to hold the switch at dusk! My duties are dwindling, if you perfect 67 much more and you'll put me out of a job I love!:cry . Next thing you're going to say is you no longer want the support vehicle then what will I do:W. No more fix ups OK , you're scaring me!;LOL
PS Let me know whenever you need some company or an extra hand OK?):upthumbs
 
Bigger tires is always one of my favorites, but since you have an adjustable rear suspension , shouldnt you work on tuning for more traction. Raising the front of the links to create more anti squat and better bite? I sure you know this stuff from the racing days. Its harder to do with a stationary center section.
 
maxrevs85 said:
Bigger tires is always one of my favorites, but since you have an adjustable rear suspension , shouldnt you work on tuning for more traction. Raising the front of the links to create more anti squat and better bite? I sure you know this stuff from the racing days. Its harder to do with a stationary center section.

By dialing up the rear spring rate, I was able to substantially improve the anti-squat characteristics, but at the very great cost of jarring ride quality. I had to back off to protect my tongue from my teeth on city streets. I'm on my third spring rate adjustment and it appears to be the best overall compromise.

The only other change not requiring major surgery would appear to be a greater tire contact patch. I will consider front end adjustments as well, but I don't want to begin narrowing the car's driving characteristics to attempt a solution of one specialized problem.

:w


The car is definitely a long-haul cruiser now.
 
Z28Canuck said:
Regarding #4: But Boss! If you fix that you won't need me to hold the switch at dusk! My duties are dwindling, if you perfect 67 much more and you'll put me out of a job I love!:cry . Next thing you're going to say is you no longer want the support vehicle then what will I do:W. No more fix ups OK , you're scaring me!;LOL
PS Let me know whenever you need some company or an extra hand OK?):upthumbs
Doug...the house next to me is for sale....and I am a long way short of where I need to be...I figure that the experience you got there should be put to good use here......should I tell the real estate agent that you will take the house? And beside....there is always a car here that you would be welcome to take for a ride any time.......how is that for bribery?
 
I think 67 has shaken the bugs out of this car quite well. I think duntov97 and Bod will have the most miles on there collector cars this year and I comend them for it. I have a lowly 500 miles on mine. I would have had more but the wife insisted we trailer the car to carlilse this year as she did not want to be the support vechicle with a empty trailer behind her.

As for the steeroids kit I dont know how you guys are strong enough to muscle these big tired,big blocks around.
 
Z28Canuck said:
Regarding #4: But Boss! If you fix that you won't need me to hold the switch at dusk! My duties are dwindling, if you perfect 67 much more and you'll put me out of a job I love!:cry . Next thing you're going to say is you no longer want the support vehicle then what will I do:W. No more fix ups OK , you're scaring me!;LOL
PS Let me know whenever you need some company or an extra hand OK?):upthumbs

Doug

You will have to jump in the passenger seat instead.
 
It will be for naut

Bob,

If you are planning on removing the windshield ( item # 2 ) in order to fix the stainless trim, you will be wasting your time. The lower windshield trim must be installed, and pre-fit when doing the body work. Then if you have spaces, you build up the area with body filler under the trim, until it sits flush with the body completely across. Then when the car is painted, and the glass installed, installing the trim without any gaps becomes a no brainier,

Stepinwolf
 
Stepinwolf

maybe you can help explain to me than why my SS trim isn't fitting correctly. During my bodywork before the new paint my painter had to work on the fiberglass around the windshield area on a number of places. Numerous times he test fitted the trim pieces while rebuilding up the fiberglass to make sure everything was fitting correctly and flush. Afterwards during final reassembly the trim pieces would not sit down flush and there are a few gaps because of that. The only thing that changed between the test fitting during the 'glass repairs and the final reassembly was that we used new clips and screws and of course a new gasket for the windshield.
Could the new windshield gasket be too thick and keeping thr SS trim molding from sitting flush as it should?
 
BarryK said:
Stepinwolf

maybe you can help explain to me than why my SS trim isn't fitting correctly. During my bodywork before the new paint my painter had to work on the fiberglass around the windshield area on a number of places. Numerous times he test fitted the trim pieces while rebuilding up the fiberglass to make sure everything was fitting correctly and flush. Afterwards during final reassembly the trim pieces would not sit down flush and there are a few gaps because of that. The only thing that changed between the test fitting during the 'glass repairs and the final reassembly was that we used new clips and screws and of course a new gasket for the windshield.
Could the new windshield gasket be too thick and keeping thr SS trim molding from sitting flush as it should?

Barry

No, I don't think so, it was rather caused by the way he went about test fitting the trim. The correct way is to put the trim piece along the lower edge and tape it in a few places so that it does not move. Then you take the clips, insert them one at a time in their proper place on the inner fold of the trim, and while holding the trim tightly against the panel, a new hole should be drilled for each clip, about 1/4 inch over from the original hole. Then when the paint and glass is in place, the moulding can be re-installed , and will sit firmly along the bottom section of the fiberglass, without any gaps.

Stepinwolf
 
stepinwolf said:
Barry

No, I don't think so, it was rather caused by the way he went about test fitting the trim. The correct way is to put the trim piece along the lower edge and tape it in a few places so that it does not move. Then you take the clips, insert them one at a time in their proper place on the inner fold of the trim, and while holding the trim tightly against the panel, a new hole should be drilled for each clip, about 1/4 inch over from the original hole. Then when the paint and glass is in place, the moulding can be re-installed , and will sit firmly along the bottom section of the fiberglass, without any gaps.

Stepinwolf

that sounds like a very simple and elegant solution Bob. Considering my painters experience on these older cars I'm really surprised he didn't do it that way.
 
BarryK said:
that sounds like a very simple and elegant solution Bob. Considering my painters experience on these older cars I'm really surprised he didn't do it that way.

Barry,

The last thing I would be willing to do, would be to adversely, criticize someone else's work, or labour.

However that being said, this procedure I have just described, has proven in the past to be the only reliable way to guarantee the most perfect fit, once the Corvette is in paint and the rebuilding process has been undertaken.

Anyone that has seen my 65 red convertible, can vouch to what tight fitting trim should look like. Just ask one of our fellow Forum members " Rich Legasse " , he saw the car up close, and snapped quite a few photos of it, at a show that we attended together . ;)

Stepinwolf
 
Well, perhaps after I get more experience doing work on the car myself I'll try to tackle that job in a few years. Might make an interesting winter project in a couple of years. Until than it's not too bad and someone really has to look fairly close to notice it.
I can't complain or criticize his work too much especially considering that he spent many, many months doing a lot of bodywork on the car ALL of which was completely unexpected before we stripped the car of paint and he never once complained or told me he needed more money above the original quoted price of the job. None of the bodywork was calculated into his price because before the paint was stripped off the body actually looked very good - it wasn't until we saw what the paint had been covering up did we realize how much extra work was involved. i'm still shocked he didn't triple his fee on my car because of that.
 
BarryK said:
Well, perhaps after I get more experience doing work on the car myself I'll try to tackle that job in a few years. Might make an interesting winter project in a couple of years. Until than it's not too bad and someone really has to look fairly close to notice it.
I can't complain or criticize his work too much especially considering that he spent many, many months doing a lot of bodywork on the car ALL of which was completely unexpected before we stripped the car of paint and he never once complained or told me he needed more money above the original quoted price of the job. None of the bodywork was calculated into his price because before the paint was stripped off the body actually looked very good - it wasn't until we saw what the paint had been covering up did we realize how much extra work was involved. i'm still shocked he didn't triple his fee on my car because of that.

Well Berry, It's my guess that you will never be able to say enough good thing's about him.

Stepinwolf
 
well, there were a few minor things that weren't "perfect" but overall I was very satisfied with the job he did.
 
stepinwolf said:
Bob,

If you are planning on removing the windshield ( item # 2 ) in order to fix the stainless trim, you will be wasting your time. The lower windshield trim must be installed, and pre-fit when doing the body work. Then if you have spaces, you build up the area with body filler under the trim, until it sits flush with the body completely across. Then when the car is painted, and the glass installed, installing the trim without any gaps becomes a no brainier,

Stepinwolf

Bob,

I'm puzzled by this. No body work was done anywhere around the windows. I removed the original stainless (which fit reasonably well) and glass. The only changes were a new windshield (old was glass-pitted and the laminate was bubbling in one corner), new windshield weatherstrip and new retaining clips.

The most obvious problem is the upper stainless, about 3" or 4" from both corners. Those two clips refuse to grab. Thus, the stainless rides too high there. And, as usual with these cars, the lower corners seem high.

Concerning the upper problem, Fuelie's theory is that the replacement windshield curvature is slightly malformed, thereby fighting our efforts to seat the stainless.

Other possibilities are improperly manufactured weatherstrip (too thick) or faulty clips (too short)???????????????????????

Since the body was untouched around the glass and the stainless is original, I can't see how it can be as you suggest. :W

Finally, as you know, there is no weatherstrip on the rear glass and the stainless fits very well. I used new clips there as well. Suddenly, it makes me very suspicious of the thickness of the front weatherstrip.

- front weatherstrip thickness?
- front clips?
- improper windshield curvature?
- not holding my breath the right way? ;)
 
I'll vote for the weatherstrips. I had a similar experience with the t-tops on my 1979 when it was painted and the rubber repaced: I couldn't clamp them down. The aftermarket rubber was thicker and harder. And it didn't soften with time. Fortunately there are some adjusting points on t-tops and and after some fooling about all was well.
 
Let's look elsewhere

Bob,

I was not aware that body work had not been preformed, nor did I think that the stainless you were referring to also included the upper section.

Let's look at the most obvious, which is the rubber. Before going any further, the following should not be taken as an endorsement, nor to condone the quality of the parts from certain suppliers.

There are at least 3 or 4 different manufacturers, that supply rubber products to the various Corvette resellers. In my many years I have had to send back, close to half of the weatherstripping that was sold to me from these firms. Firms such as Ecklers, Zip, Mid America, and Auto Accessories of America, etc, being the major resellers where the assorted rubber was purchased.

Being in Canada, you well aware of the problems that are imposed upon us when the time comes to have previously received parts, sent back to the US for credit, and or replacement. I guarantee it not a fun thing to do.

As a consequence, I shopped around and found another supplier who strangely did not have much exposer in the Corvette trade. They are not in any of the major publications, they no longer do the big Corvette shows, and there is not much exposer on any of the various web sites or Forums.

http://www.corvette-rubber.com/

Their name is Corvette Rubber, they are in Michigan, and get this, Corvette rubber is the only thing they actually manufacture and sell. They don't have any discount program, nor are their products found at any of the regular Corvette resellers, but you had better believe they have the best quality, rubber I have ever used. I have never had to return anything from them, and was able to use everything piece of weatherstrip I ever bought from them.

As I mentioned previously, they don't have any discount program, nor the " Stay with us " type of discounts, however their regular pricing has always been slightly lower then the discounted pricing seen from most of the resellers.

I don't intend for my following statements to be a know it all, fix it all, and end it all, but as for fitments problems, this is where it starts for me.

Next, you mention it previously " fit reasonably well ". Should I take that as being that this type of fit would be acceptable ? Was the trim really examined up close and personal before it's removal. Sometimes these ill fitting pieces, are overlooked before a restoration is undertaken when the car is in a sad state, then when the car has been completely restored, and look's like a shiny new penny, the previously acceptable " ill fitting trim, is no longer acceptable. ? ( just fishing around )

Do you remember how difficult the trim was to remove. I am thinking, is it possible that these long sections ( top and bottom ) could have been slightly bent, ( without any visible kink's ) while removing them, knowing quite well the difficulty that one sometimes has in trying to remove trim.

I doubt the problem could be traced ( sorry Brian ) to the curvature of the glass. To have this happen, the curve would have to be very pronounced, and right at the glasses edge, in order to have any effect on the clips themselves.

One last thing that comes to mind is the installation process of the various glass installers. As you might expect, I have had quite a few different people in the trade, install, and attempt to install front and back glass. Most of the younger crowd have never even seen weatherstrip, so you can't blame them for not wanting to try, or trying, and them not getting it quite right.

Of all the trades people I have worked with, there is only one who had gotten it right, and would be kept for all further installations. I was fortunate in being able to help out, and pick up a few pointers at the same time. One of the major differences with his procedures compared to all the others was the preparation of the rubber and the glass.

The glass was set out on his work table, and before even approaching it, he first turned his attention to the weatherstripping, and proceeded to completely fill the gap in the weatherstripping, where the glass was to be inserted. It goes without saying that when we finally did insert the rubber around the glass, there was quite a bit of sealant coming from the opening in the rubber. However, he explained to me, a lot of installers try and fill it after the glass is in place, and in doing so, they are not able to get the glass seated far enough into the rubber weatherstrip, before trying to get the glass installed in the windshield frame. This would also have as a side effect, to have the rubber slightly budging outward, making the trim harder to seat properly.

Lastly I will address the clips themselves. Do you honestly think during the assembly process, one of the employees actually sat down and measured exactly where the holes should be drilled, so that the trim would lay down flat. Sorry Bob, he probably had some 20 to 30 holes to drill, knew approximately where they should go, and proceeded to drill the holes, knowing very well that if the next fellow could clip on the moulding, that his job was done. In just about every installation have done, I never used the original hole, but rather drilled out new ones right up close to them.

A lot to digest, maby something I mentioned might ring a bell for you, your thoughts are always welcome on any of my posts. ;)

regards
Bob

a.k.a.Stepinwolf
 

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