Fuel Line Help

[Imran]

Hey everyone,

Well, my fuel line is leaking on my 74. It's the main line from the tank to the fuel pump, it must have cracked a little when we installed the new gas tank. Anyway, I can't find the leak exactly, but it's SOMEWHERE around where the metal fuel line bends 90 degrees so it can travel down the length of the body to the front.

What are my options? Can I fix it while it's there? It's seemingly a hairline fracture, and it's BARELY leaking fuel. The fuel runs down the rubber hose, and then drips at the bottom. It's such a small leak that it drops maybe once every 20 seconds. However, it stinks up my garage unbelievably!

Can I seal the line somehow from the outside? Or what is my best option to replace the line? I don't necessarily need stock, because that's over a hundred bucks, and it looks like you have to remove the body to get to the line

Help please again

Imran - 74

 

[cntrhub]

Which is cheaper? A hundred dollar fuel hose part, or a couple hundred thousand dollar home and car? Quit belly aching about something so cheap that it will light up your car before July 4th comes around next year. You are taking such a chance with something as volatile as gasoline! Did you know, pound for pound, gasoline is more powerful than TNT?
Get the correct ratio in the garage of gas fumes, with the air, and that water heater pilot light will......do I need to go any farther?
No, don't repair.....REPLACE! You now have a steel stress crack. No bonding agent will help. The fumes alone weeping through the crack will not make a good seal.
Did I scare you enough? As Dr. whatever her name says, "Now go do the right thing."

 

[Imran]

It sounds like my question was misunderstood... what I meant about the price part was that a reproduction fuel line from the catalogs costs that much, what alternatives are there? Like universal line, etc...

 

[cntrhub]

Try marine grade fuel line. It's one of the best replacement hoses you can use. If you find that the steel line (split open) is the problem, please don't repair. You have to have good integrity throughout the fuel system. Your Vette is one of my favorite years.

 

[billybob]

Imran,

I would have to agree with what cntrhub tells you. Replace the whole system. What you have to ask yourself is this.

Is it the original fuel line made back in 74?

If by installing the fuel tank you managed to cause a stress fracture, means your lines are tired and are asking to be replaced.

With it happening in that one spot, what are the chances or it happening again in another location on the car?

Ok enough of my preaching about what you should do... heres what you can do untill you decide you have enough money to buy a new complete line system.

Locate the fracture... this is key if you want to replace/repair the broken bit.

You'll want to cut above and below the the facture, ensure you get the entire infected part out or you will have fixed nothing.

Get some fuel line that matches the grade that is currently in your system and some double end compression fittings that match the same grade line.

Cut the new line to match the part cut out, cutting slightly smaller to allow for the fittings size.

(Note that straight repairs are prefered, but bends can be done aswell, as long as you use a pipe bender to make the bends.)

On the original line attach one of the new fittings and using a line flarring tool, flare the end just a little so the fitting doesnt easily slide off, do this same to the other end of the original cut line.

(Note Make sure that you have cleaned the cut lines of all metal or this will infect your fuel system and could cause other damage, having a rare earth magnet attached to the lines above and below the cuts will catch all metal fillings that may fall into the lines during cutting)

Now with the new line cut and ready to go attach the other ends of the fitting and compressor seals to it following the same flarring as described above.

Screw the new line onto the original line, make it tight enough so that there isnt any free movement of the new line.

(Note do not over tighten or you will have created new leaks at the fittings)

As another side note, you should NEVER try and repair a rubber fuel line. These must be replaced if they show any signs of wear, example would be cracking or the exterior, are hard and no longer have the nice rubbery feel to them.

This should complete your repair, again tho, it is only a repair and should be thought of as just that.

I sill agree with a complete replacement.

Bill

 

[Imran]

Wow, thank you so much for that extensive writeup Bill! That pretty much covered it nicely, but with the amount of time that will take up, I might as well replace the entire line, which was my original intent anyway.
The purpose of the repair was to simply make the car driveable for a week or two until my schedule cleared up to replace the entire line. I think I'm just going to be Vette-less in this awesome Florida winter weather for a little while until I have time to replace the entire line.

Cntrhub, yeah, I agree totally with you that if the line itself has the leak, then the whole thing has to go. That's been my motto with the entire car, it's a bit more expensive, but I think it's worth it especially because the car is being set up as a daily driver and part time show car. Thanks for the tips, and yes, 74s are one of my fav years too! So different, but so similar to the other years!

So marine fuel line is one suggestion...

any other suggestions for fuel-line replacements?

Anyone tackle this before with the body still on the frame, and how hard is it?

Thanks again for all of your input!

Imran - 74

 

[billybob]

Imran,

I figure if your going to give advice/directions, they might aswell be complete

The repair should take about 30-60 minutes, depending on the location of the fracture. So time wise not that bad.

Parts cost assuming you have a pipe bender 5-10$ without add another 10.

I havent personally done a complete fuel line replacement, but according to what I see in the AIM it should be easy if you take your time and dont force things.

Let me know if you need a bigger picture of the attachment. its for a 75 but should be almost exact for the 74.

Bill