Fuel Pump Pulsator - Keep it or Eliminate it?

[The Car Whisperer]

Motor has 55000 miles and is tight, doesn't burn any oil. Only driven about 2000 miles a year and never abused. This is my baby. Never driven in the rain or snow. I have owned it for over 15 years and am the second owner. Got it when it had less than 24000 miles on it. It is a very original car, no hot rod parts or custom stuff here. Has a new IAC and TPS last year and all adjusted according to factory service manual specs.

 

[aklim]

Motor has 55000 miles and is tight, doesn't burn any oil. Only driven about 2000 miles a year and never abused. This is my baby. Never driven in the rain or snow. I have owned it for over 15 years and am the second owner. Got it when it had less than 24000 miles on it. It is a very original car, no hot rod parts or custom stuff here. Has a new IAC and TPS last year and all adjusted according to factory service manual specs.

Doesn't matter. 10 yo injectors are still 10 yo injectors. I would have them checked out just to be sure.

 

[Schrade]

Can the new fuel pump alone be responsible for that? Sure it can. Checking fuel pressure under engine load is an important test. Position pressure gauge so that you can see it from the drivers seat (lower windshield) and partially latch the hood to avoid pinching the hose. You can now verify fuel pressures under different engine load conditions.

Yup

Better pressure means better spray/atomization, like the water in the garden hose. If it just drips out, no spray, no power.

Fuel pressure needs checking static (motor off), idle with vacuum ON FPR, idle with vac OFF of FPR, and pedal down, on the road.

Vacuum makes pressure increase for enrichment, and decrease vacuum makes FPR reduce fuel rail pressure...


and the difference in spray with 39 psi and 42-43+ psi is a BIG difference. Especially if the baskets have jam in them...

And ready for more 'pulsating' now YUP:

 

[gmjunkie]

Yup

Better pressure means better spray/atomization, like the water in the garden hose. If it just drips out, no spray, no power.

Fuel pressure needs checking static (motor off), idle with vacuum ON FPR, idle with vac OFF of FPR, and pedal down, on the road.

Vacuum makes pressure increase for enrichment, and decrease vacuum makes FPR reduce fuel rail pressure...


and the difference in spray with 39 psi and 42-43+ psi is a BIG difference. Especially if the baskets have jam in them...

Sorry here Schrade,But I have to Respectfully disagree with you here on some of this!! That's something I don't normally do!(Respectfully) But as a rule your posts are very informative and right on the Money,So I'll "Respectfully" disagree!!

But I believe you are a Little Bass Ackwords here in the Red Highlighted statement!! More Vacuum,Less Fuel Pressure!! Less Vacuum,More Fuel Pressure!!

As the rpm's increase under acceleration,Vacuum Drops raising Fuel Pressure!!
As vacuum comes back,Fuel Pressure is lowered!

 

[Schrade]

Yup - sure is backwards.

:duh