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Fuel Tank Removal?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Hijinx
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Hijinx

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OK, with all that I am into right now (installing headers, new HP fuel pump, new fuel lines, MSD ignition), should I go ahead and drop the fuel tank? I have rust on the exterior of the tank in spots, but it looks solid enough. Getting to the fuel and return lines looks easy enough either way. How hard is it to remove? If I pull it, what do I need to do with it while its out. I am mainly thinking of cleaning up the rust and getting more access to the lines. I already have spare and all associated hardware and such off working it over. What do you guys and gals think?:confused
 
EEEK!

Well Rod, I had no choice about removing mine since it was leaking but it wasn't fun.

Inspect the innards with a light and if it looks good, I would leave well enough alone. However, even if you decide not to drop it, you can still loosen the straps (two bolts just behind the tank) and inspect all around to make sure the strap pads and the lower front anti-squeak pad are intact. These are a prime spot for leaks as the metal to metal rub can be bad news for gas tanks. If the strap pads and the lower pad need replacing then drop that puppy and replace the pads. The pads should be soft and pliable - if they crack when touched then I'd replace them. Also, it's a good thing to replace at least the sock filter and the rubber sending unit gasket and lock nut even if you don't drop the tank. With all the work you're doing, may as well get that gunky old sock out of there.

When you replace the tank use a two foot length of board under it and jack it up with your hydraulic jack. This will make positioning it a breeze. Before you drop it, mark it at the cross supports so you'll know exactly how far back it should go. If you get that part wrong the upper spare tire cover will hit the sending unit line (not good).

Good luck!
 
Well, still have not decided yet. I hear you on the trouble dropping it, but I keep thinking - I have everything out from under the car that is in the way. When will I have it torn down this much again?

What did you have to do to disconnect where the fuel filler connects to the body? Is that easy or hard to do?
 
No major issue in dropping the tank. Once the spare tire carrier is removed, remove or lower the mufflers, drain the tank (gas is heavy!), disconnect the lines, unbolt the straps. Then while carefuly supporting the tank (easier with two but I did it by myself with the help of a short section to 2x4 to prop the tank) remove the cross member. Then you will have to raise one side, I did the drivers side, then slide the tank over until the other side can be droped down past the frame rail and right out it comes.

So you are also going to replace the fuel lines. I did that and wish I had never gotten involved in that. Due to the rear frame kick up, you cannot just slide the line through. Need to remove the body mounts and jack up the body. My number 3 mount was rusted solid and I was concerned that putting too much pressure on it and causing more damage then I wanted to deal with. So I just ran rubber line through that kick up area and connected it to the steel lines on either end. My recommendation would be that if the lines are still useable, don't replace them....unless you have the body off.

tom...
 
Hijinx said:
What did you have to do to disconnect where the fuel filler connects to the body? Is that easy or hard to do?

It isn't connected, when the tank drops, the filler neck drops with it.

- Eric:w
 
I plan to make my own lines. Hard lines on the easy to get to sections and rubber where it has to be snaked around (short sections). I got 25 feet of thick wall aluminum 3/8 tubing and an Earls beader for $50 from Summit.

I think I am going to drop the tank. Having the spare tire carrier and exhaust already out, its just too easy to get to. This is what I always do. Start small, just headers and MSD ignition. Now I am into new fuel lines, tank removal, relocation of the charcoal canister............
 
Hijinx said:
This is what I always do. Start small, just headers and MSD ignition. Now I am into new fuel lines, tank removal, relocation of the charcoal canister............
That is a common problem, the "might as well's" & "while you are in there's". That is why a Vette is never finished. :D

tom...
 
Pulling the gas tank this weekend. Just too much rust on it for me to feel comfortable having everything torn down this much and not pulling it to get referbed.

Question; Since I am replacing all the hard lines and do not plan to plumb a return line (replaced the pump and the new one does not have this provision). Do I just cap this line? Should I do something else?
 

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