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Gail Undergoing a Car's Version of Angioplasty Operation...sort off... ;)

Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
2,141
Location
Rio Rancho, NM
Corvette
1981 HD Suspension; ZN1 Option
About 4 Saturdays ago, I went to Santa Fe. It was a real nice drive on a real nice day. Cold and crisp outside, Gail was running pretty good.

On my way back, she began to idle rich. I thought that it could be the change in altitude from 5K feet to 7K feet, but I felt that the computer would/should handle the change in altitude fine, but she was running rich.

I checked codes, and I found code 15 and 23. I fixed code 15. And I just completed check for an open circuit on the light blue M/C wire circuit 411. Now, I need to check for a short on the wire, but I do not have a powered test light, I'l buy one before the week end. In the meantime...
Can you guys share lessons learned when chasing a ground-shorted wire???

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GerryLP:cool
 
Hello Gerry,

If I were you I would buy a multimeter so you can check voltage, ohmage and amperage. To check for a ground shorted wire use the ohmage setting. It's simply checking the wire all the way to the ECM or fusebox and find the problem.
First check the wiring diagram to see what color the wire has and changes into then find the points outside the wiring harness and see if the problem is there. Insulate the wire there and see if there is no more ohmage reading between the wire and ground (no reading is no shortage :)) and that step by step.
I hope somebody knows a better and faster way!

Greetings Peter
 
Hello Gerry,

If I were you I would buy a multimeter so you can check voltage, ohmage and amperage. To check for a ground shorted wire use the ohmage setting. It's simply checking the wire all the way to the ECM or fusebox and find the problem.
First check the wiring diagram to see what color the wire has and changes into then find the points outside the wiring harness and see if the problem is there. Insulate the wire there and see if there is no more ohmage reading between the wire and ground (no reading is no shortage :)) and that step by step.
I hope somebody knows a better and faster way!

Greetings Peter

Yeah, I do have a multi-meter. But the audible beep for continuity is not very loud, so I thought that at least a self-powered test light is visible from a distance, and I don't have to be right next to it, since, as you very well know, the harnesses are a PITA to reach especially under the dash.

The pictures posted also show the wiper motor out of the way. It is a slow process and a painful one, for sure.:ugh;squint::eyerole:D

But thanks for the tip just the same. :upthumbs

GerryLP:cool
 
As far as I can remember the ECM wiring harness goes into the interior just a little above your gas pedal. The harness goes almost straight to your ECM. I think around your gearshifter there is a linkage between the ECM harness and interior harness.

You're right about the test light, you'll see it everywhere and a multimeter only face on. I would first check the connector behind the engine (I think you already disconnected it and I can see it in the first picture). If the pin in the connector (from the wire) isn't grounded then the problem is in the harness on the engine. If the pin is grounded then the problem is somewhere behind the engine, under the dash or besides the center console.
My feeling says the problem should be somewhere in the enginebay. The interior doesn't change much so not a big change a shortages is overthere.
Good luck! :)

Greetings Peter
 
Well, I ran the troubleshooting steps backwards and forwards, and it keeps telling me that the re is a bad connection somewhere or te ECM is bad. I have already replaced the ECM, and I cannot find where the bad connection is, so I am putting her back together.

I bought some of that plastic tubing for wires, and installed it on her harness portions. The Wiper motor is back in, but while I am at it, I am looking at the driver's side seat belt which let go just before the trip to Cruise Fest in June.

GerryLP:cool
 

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