Gas gauge BOING & other questions

[vigman]

1)How "stable" is the fuel gauge when you are driving... mine is very spastic when on the move.. but if you are parked.. it settles down.. if you move the back end.. it moves with the fuel level.. tiny slosh..tiny move... big slosh.. pin to pin on the meter.

2) Where in the "Brake" light on the dash when the E brake is pulled?

3) There SHOULD be a ballast resistor for the "run" line going to the coil.. right? It's not built into the harness like on my 73 with a piece of Ni Chrome resistance wire.

4) The Temp gauge SHOULD read "0" when cold... mine shoots up to 140 when the cars STONE COLD...

Been to busy to dig in the books....

HELLLLPPPPP

Vig~

 

[JohnZ]

Vig - There's a "damper" inside the gauge mechanism to keep the needle from "fluttering" to match the motion of the sending unit when fuel sloshes around in the tank; probably just worn out from old age.

The "Brake" light is at the top of the cluster - it's the left one of the odd-shaped pair just above the round high-beam indicator light.

You should have a white ceramic ballast resistor mounted vertically about 3" inboard of the master cylinder cap; one side has a wire to the ignition switch, the other side has a wire to the (+) coil terminal.

With the ignition on, pull the connector off the temp sender; gauge should show full cold. Then ground the terminal in the connector to the engine (briefly) and the gauge should show full hot. If that checks, the sender is probably bad. Most replacement senders aren't properly calibrated, but the best one with the closest calibration is the Wells TU-5 ($5.00 at AutoZone).

 

[vigman]

John Z

2 points for you~

Good call on the sender TU-5 ( see the post below )

and right on with the Brake light.. now I need to get a PIN switch... mines TWEEKED BAD....

Vig~