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Gettin a 63

LIRacer

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 25, 2001
Messages
248
Location
New York
Corvette
65 with ZZ502
I am looking at 63 coupe...327, Fuelie car..the FI is missing. the numbers supposedly match. In so so condition, maybe a 3. I'll see it this weekend. What should I lookout for and what do you think it is worth. You'll get sick when I tell youwhat I am paying for it.
 
There's not enough info to get very close on price, but, watch for at least the following:

- rust damage to frame (especially at the rear-wheel kickup area) A great number of these cars have structural frame problems, especially in the northern states
- rust damage to the birdcage (as a result of water leaks around the front window or travelling up from the frame rails)
- wiring problems (after 42 years, most electrical wiring will be brittle and dangerous)
- evidence of previous accident damage; not hard to spot

"Numbers supposedly match" is a whole other topic. :crazy

Others will contribute more. Good luck and be cautious. :w
 
check stamp pad and make sure you have something along the lines of F0221RF - this will validate block is for a L84 (fuellie) - make sure "870" block, and check casting date; intake manifold should be 3826810; exhaust manifolds should be 3797942 (L) and 3797902 (R); distributor should be 1111022 with a date something like 3E6; fuel pump should be AC 4657 embossed; alternator should be 1100638 (37 amp) with something like a 3E23 date; starter should be 1107242 with a date like 3E24; solenoid should be 1114256 with date like 3E27; rear diffe should be something like 3818753 CD7263; tranny should be 4-speed Muncie 3831704 / 3930308 with VIN like 31XXXXX; tailshaft should have something like 3831731; bellhousing 3788421; expansion tank 3155416 63G; steering box 5677642 - that should give you some numbers to check!
 
great info, but I wouldn't expect to see an orignal alternator or starter on a 40 year old car (unless it was an NCRS project) so these would not be "walk away" offenses. Ditto for fuel pump. Manifolds may also have been switched during its life, especially if the fuelie went non-fuelie as you say it did.
 
C5vetter
I believe that the early 63s had a BW T-10 transmissions. LIboater needs to do his homework prior to making an offer, unless the price is too low to refuse.
c5vetter said:
check stamp pad and make sure you have something along the lines of F0221RF - this will validate block is for a L84 (fuellie) - make sure "870" block, and check casting date; intake manifold should be 3826810; exhaust manifolds should be 3797942 (L) and 3797902 (R); distributor should be 1111022 with a date something like 3E6; fuel pump should be AC 4657 embossed; alternator should be 1100638 (37 amp) with something like a 3E23 date; starter should be 1107242 with a date like 3E24; solenoid should be 1114256 with date like 3E27; rear diffe should be something like 3818753 CD7263; tranny should be 4-speed Muncie 3831704 / 3930308 with VIN like 31XXXXX; tailshaft should have something like 3831731; bellhousing 3788421; expansion tank 3155416 63G; steering box 5677642 - that should give you some numbers to check!
 
Purchasing a 63

LIBoater



I recently purchased a 63 340HP that I will be restoring in the near future. One thing that I did not realize when I purchased the car is that many of the parts are one year only, and some other parts were 1/2 year only. If many of the original parts are missing it can be very expensive to restore. If your plans are not to restore to NCRS standards, but just a very good driver then after market parts could be used. The 63 fulie is a very desirable car and should command a good price.



Good luck and please keep us informed!



Ray
 
I agree with above, after restoring my 340 it cost and arm and a leg, but just finding the parts were more of an issue.

May I suggest this, get an NCRS Judging Manual ASAP...this one the most important book I used.

Look for some other things like:

The fuel and brake lines are not broken off and rerun with rubber tubing (except were is suppose to be.)
In 63 the seat mounts were different, they mounting feet bolted onto the seats and are very different from other years...these are very hard to find and very expensive.

The fiberglass glove compartment door is correct.

The Carb should be a Carter AFB (two different models used that year).

The valve covers do NOT have the Casting FLAW on it.

The fan has five blades with two rivets at the base.

The shift know has BLACK plastic ball not chrome

Again best thing is to buy the book and check things as you go...good luck.
 
question was what to look for in a 1963 fuellie - since I restored my 1963 Z06, I gave him what SHOULD be on a 1963 fuellie when it left the factory - now, parts on a 40+ year old car may have changed - fortunately on mine many were still original and were restored - you can check out my restoration page at:

http://www.pbase.com/c5vetter
 
Thanks for all the great info. I am looking at the car this weekend. I am paying $7,000 (the guy owes a friend of mine money and couldn't pay). The car is an uncompleted resto project.
 

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