getting ready to start

[gray85]

Well I am on the final stages of putting my engine together. Complete overhaul and replaced the heads (edlbrock RPMs). The last snag was the manifold bolts, I had problem with the head bolt holes. The first attempt putting the manifold was mess. The holes had to be chased out with a tap.

As you might already know the manifold bolts are torque head, which I stipped, replacements on the way.

I have an old distributor, which I am using to pre-oil before the first start. Does anyone have suggestions on what I do before I start the car the first time?

This is my first overhaul, I am little worried. Mainly at what the wife will say if it doesn't work, especially after all the money I have spent.

O BTW, does anyone have a place I can live after the wife kicks me out. I don't have a dog, so the dog house is out of the question.

 

[5pinball]

only thing i can think of is keep it at fast idle for first few min for cam break in and watch oil preasure i have 2 spare bdrms and rm in garage and an engine puller even have bunch of dogs and beer on tap oh yea have indoor pluming what more does a guy need good luck on startup

 

[gray85]

After talking to my machinist, he claims that the manifold could need to be cut to fit the heads. I think I can get by, but it wouldn't be a big deal to pull the manifold. If I have a leak, it shouldn't be too bad.

That old distributer really came in handy. Pull the gear, extend a shaft and hook-up a drill. I never realized that the oil ran through the push-rods!

To set the timing, rotate till the crank mark is on tdc, with a finger on #1 spark plug hole (verify the compression stroke), the rotor should point at #1 on the distributer.

Pre-oil, verify fuel, timing set, let it rip and have a fire extinguisher handy.

People please add to the trace, I need advice.

5pinball you had me at beer, indoor pluming now that is just icing on the cake. What time can I come over?

 

[rrubel]

Gray85, why would you need to cut the manifold?

Also, can you provide a bit more on the pre-oiling? I'll be where you are soon and knew I had to pre-oil but am unclear how. Was going to ask around later, but since you brought it up...

Oil through the pushrods - cool, yeah, until you need to run the engine with the valve covers off and it sprays all over you (even with the little caps you can buy).

[RICHR]

 

[cntrhub]

This is a "must have" item in my tool box. It is so quick to use without trying to make a "Rub Goldie" type tool. I did a quick search of the part number on the box, and they are available for about $20 w/out shipping. http://www.tavia.com/cat13.html
You can feel the drill resisting when the oil pressure starts to go through the orifices. Just keep the drill going for awhile, if you don't have the valve covers off. If you have the valve covers removed, just watch the oil come through the top of the push rod and rocker arms. Then you can stop drilling. Using this tool simply does the same action as if you were starting the car. But you have a safety factor built in (using this oil pump tool) on a rebuilt engine. this way, you won't run a dry engine for a few seconds and cause damage.
To make the drilling less time consuming, fill the oil filter before installing. Let the filter sit for awhile and keep checking the oil level inside the hole. The oil will absorb through the pleats and eventually settle to a level. Keep adding oil till it comes just under the thread holes. Adding oil to a dry oil filter should also be done when changing your oil and filter during normal maintenance.

rrubel, forget the caps. Setting the valves are done statically. With this oil priming tool, you won't get the spray either. The drill won't spin fast enough to cause a problem. There is no reason to run an engine with the valve covers off.

 

[87NassauBlue]

Double/Triple check yourself. Make sure you put the drain plug in before you put the oil in. Don't fortget to relash your valves after you get it started.

 

[87NassauBlue]

If you got the intake on without having it faced, I wouldn't cut it unless you have vacuume leaks.
Hopefully you knew to lube all the parts with white lithium grease while you were putting it together. You can also disconnect your ignition and spin the engine with the starter till you build the oil pressure to accomplish the same thing. I have never used the little rocker clips to do valve lashes. it's a mess either way.

Gray85, why would you need to cut the manifold?

Also, can you provide a bit more on the pre-oiling? I'll be where you are soon and knew I had to pre-oil but am unclear how. Was going to ask around later, but since you brought it up...

Oil through the pushrods - cool, yeah, until you need to run the engine with the valve covers off and it sprays all over you (even with the little caps you can buy).

[RICHR]

 

[gray85]

Thanks for the very helpful information. I used the distributer to pre-oil. I had to modify an old distributor, as you know the distributer has a gear to the cam and connects to the oil pump.

You need to remove the cam gear (pull a pin), remove the top stuff (eletronics) and extend the shaft. The hardest part was extending the shaft. I had to drill a hole in the shaft, tap and screw a threaded shaft (small enough to fit the drill).
Or you can buy the tool that was mensioned earlier.

I hoping I will not have to cut (reface) the manifold. The worst case I will have vacume leak. I will keep you posted.

I can say enough about this forum, you guys are great!!!!!