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Got a 1974 stingray and need some advice please


May 28, 2014
Knoxville TN
1989 Corvette BUILT l-98 1974 Stingray L-82
I picked this up yesterday it will start and idle I dont want to push it its been sitting Im going to rebuild everything. Everything has been done exceot intake and carb they are pretty much shot. I like edlebrock carbs and there intake for this car its the l82 350 engine there are so many styles of carb just wondering what is the easiest to just change out and not really have to tinker with any info would be great. I am also having a problem with neutral safety switch and a stretched shift cable I will replace those. Any advice or tips on how to rebuild this or what to avoid I want this to be a nice ride I invest around 8000 into me doing all work but paint of course. Im 1800 into it so that leaves me at 6200$ to play with what is the best bang for buck in the c3 style corvette. They are my favorite era so much so that I am selling my nice c4 to achieve the restoration of this stingray thanks alot Travis

1. What Edlbrock carb and intake to use on the L84 350 5.7 with minimal effort
2. Suggestions on what to do during rebuild I want to keep it as original as possible and not change engines
3. Brakes I will need help with im sure but I will give it a shot

Thanks IMG_1680[1].jpg
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If you are in only $1,800, you will end up with a great car for not a lot of money. Congrats! I'm sure some of the forum C3 guys can help you out.
Before and after pictures of the engine bay IMG_1763[1].jpgIMG_1725[1].jpgIMG_0802[1].jpg last one is my c4 just figured I would throw that in there
Your Q-jet looks good,it just may need some adjustment. I would replace that front valve cover breather with an actual PCV valve. Your engine may act like it has a vacuum leak if that breather doesn't have some kind of check valve in it. If you are set on Edelbrock stuff, I would go with the performer EPS intake and the 750 carb.
I agree with Crimson. Keep the Q-Jet for four reasons:
1. It's a great performing street carb
2. If original, it's designed for your car
3. If original, it will add value to your car
4. You already have it

I owned a stock '73 L-82 4-speed. It was an amazing street performer. Its Q-Jet provided super throttle response, great full throttle performance and good fuel economy.

And yes, go back to the original PCV system.
I bet the carb does look new because it is. I rebuilt the top end took heads to machine shop to be cleaned up. I went back with the original intake and a new qjet carb. Orange engine block black accents pretty up kit blah blah. I tell you the brake booster was a taco to do lucky I have a friend with kid like hands he could reach the bolts without taking apart the dash. First pic is progress so far... Second pic is a vaccum silinoid I am wondering about.. I deleted the egr dont give me crap I just did it do I need to keep the silinoid or can I just use vaccum to brake booster, distributor, crankscase breather, transmission kick down vaccum.... Do I need any other vaccum {besides AC and headlite vaccum there connected} I hate to much uneeded vaccum thanks for the suggestions I appreciate it. No longer at 1800 I have about 3000 in her now.. Also my tranny wont shift into park I think its the cable any suggestions on that thanks


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ps The breathers are pcv style just pretty I know about those cheap crap ebay ones been there before lol
Ok my brake calipers are shot and I hear the rebuild kits are not that good { metal ring bends and they leak from piston} anyone have advice on that advanced auto has reman. calipers for 65 and my core its the best price I can find are the wearevers a good caliper... ALSO a weird thing these brakes have a couple of bleeder screws not one I start at the furthest one back right correct thanks for any advice
Lol. You're in for a treat. The breaks are a bear to bleed. I'll have to double check which one to bleed first. I think you do the front one first. Otherwise you'd get air in the back when you break the front one open. I'll double check and let you know.

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Geez well Brakes cost around 700$ for the beast and bleeding goes furthest from master cyl-rear right caliper then bleeder valves are as follows- back outside bleed valve, inside back bleed valve, front outside bleed valve, then front inside back bleed valve.... Then back left caliper 4 bleed valves , front right caliper 4 bleed valves, then front right caliper 4 bleed valves. Ohh and then you have to do it a couple times if you replaced master cylinder and the rubber brake lines all around so you and a pissed off friend with a sore leg can get it done lol.

I also got screwed getting my car painted had a bum painter got me for 1700$ did a horrible job and I took it away. The new painter should be done within 14 days.. I am now 5600$ in the car I will post pictures when It comes back from the paint shop again. Its been a while since Ive been on here so thanks to the advice and help. She runs nicely now and is in tune all that is left is interior work!!

IMG_1834[1].jpgIMG_1958[1].jpgIMG_1992[1].JPG Last picture isnt my car but the color I chose we will see how close it gets... Sorry if that is your car I stole your idea/color but thank you

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