Half Shaft vs Solid suspension

[sscam69]

I was at the drags this weekend and I raced a friend (owns a supercharged Stang) and I told him I am going to drop stroker in the summer.

He said "not with those half shafts", " you are going to have to go with a solid axle"

I was like "?"

we raced got my a$$ handed to me but I was curious as to why. We talked later and he said that they could not handle the torque. Spoke with someone else later that had a supercharged vette running low 11's and

he said "havent had any problems"

Whats the deal?
does anybody know how much torque they can handle? I know you can have them made to handle the torque but what other problems are there with the rear suspension and high torque engines? I would figure the u-joints are the weakest links.


Frank

 

[wolf_walker]

I've heard tell but never actaully seen the shafts/joints break, but given my recent experience I'd worry as much about the rear end(insert bitterness).

I wouldnt worry unless you have some serious power, it's hard launches with good traction that will break them anyway, the vette isnt made for that.

 

[Jack]

With serious power, U'joints'll probably let go before anything else. How much is serious???... I don't know. But if you contact a supplier in SoCal called Tom's Differentials ... I'm sure they'll know. I understand Toms has available for vette a trick independent (half-shafts) setup employing a 9" Ford center section.
JACK:gap

 

[Ken]

A major problem with breaking a half-shaft u-joint is the damage incurred with the shaft flopping around tearing up brake lines, etc.

As Jack said though, you shouldn't have a problem as long as you're not "stuck" to the track too good. The bite is what'll break 'em.

_ken

 

[Scott81]

Frank,

Not sure how your u-joint caps are but on the 81's they are cheap stamped steel, and if you are putting any power to the rear they won't hold very well. I know some big block cars have more heavy duty caps. Check this out, some heavy duty caps for small block Vettes. I had Art at Van Steel put mine on but you can get a complete kit to do them yourself. Heavy Duty U-joint Caps These won't keep the u-joints from failing but at least the cheap straps won't come flying off under heavy load.

 

[Bullitt]

Well everything has been said quite nicely, Frank. I have seen a half-shaft break, but that was on a AC Cobra replica with a reputed 650hp and meaty slicks. As Ken said, the "bite" is what gets you. I've seen billet steel spindle flanges, but I can't remember who makes them.

--Bullitt

 

[Scott81]

Well everything has been said quite nicely, Frank. I have seen a half-shaft break, but that was on a AC Cobra replica with a reputed 650hp and meaty slicks. As Ken said, the "bite" is what gets you. I've seen billet steel spindle flanges, but I can't remember who makes them.

--Bullitt

Hehe :Silly Bullitt check the link in my post above. Van Steel makes the billet steel caps.

 

[Ken]

With serious power, U'joints'll probably let go before anything else. How much is serious???... I don't know. But if you contact a supplier in SoCal called Tom's Differentials ... I'm sure they'll know. I understand Toms has available for vette a trick independent (half-shafts) setup employing a 9" Ford center section.
JACK:gap

Jack, I saw that set-up on a Popular Hot Rodding television show just the other day. The base models (no chrome) sold for something around four grand, with the complete unit in chrome at around seven. A company known as Dutchman Motorsports has one available, but I can't remember if that was the guy I saw on the show.

_ken

 

[69MyWay]

Anything can be broken if abused correctly:bash

I have not seen Calloway, or Lingenfelter swap to solid axles in their 600 hsp monsters.


The Mustang crowd is in a whole different world. Many of them are dazed and confused about Ford's recent changes on the Cobra to the fully independent rear axle. These are the kind of guys that like to wear their baseball cap backwards and drive around town looking for anybody and anything to race. In the mustang world, the 1/4 mile rules over everything else. My dentist bought a new cobra and took it right to the drag strip. He was unhappy with the power transfer to the rear end, yanked it all out, sold the stuff on e-bay, and put a solid axle in.

If all you want to do is go really fast straight and you plan on running slicks on a regular basis and dropping the clutch at 4,000 RPM, you might want not only a solid rear axle, but a drive shaft loop, scatter shield, etc. etc. etc.

Personally I would not let it bother you otherwise.

Just let us know where to find the fellow that busted your butt in that stang, and we will gladly show him what a few mods on a vette will do!

 

[tacoed]

iT'S NOT THE FALL

AS WE SAY IN JUMPIN IT'S NOT THE FALL THAT KILL'S YOU IT'S THE SUDDEN STOP!!

 

[Jack]

$4K ... is that with drain plug?

/KEN ... The base models (no chrome) sold for something around four grand, with the complete unit in chrome at around seven.

I just looked at the Dutchman ... inboard brakes like a Jag ... and beefy 3" tubes. Didn't see the PHR show ... but I saw one shot inside a shelby cobra replica shop ... nicest one under assembly had a 9" Ford IRS setup. Then I saw Tom's reference somewhere else.

Anyways ... If I EVER pay $4K for a differential ... it WILL have a draining system a dam site better than what's factory on my 71 ... no dam drain plug!
JACK:gap