Hardtop For Convertible

[CTYANK2]

Anyone know anything about hardtops for C-4 convertibles. I found someone selling one with all hardware and one without hardware ... does anybody know anything about the hardware? (Either way I need to paint the top to match.)
Is a hardtop worth the expense? Any information about hardtops would be appreciated.

 

[scorp508]

Well I for one think they look awesome. It gives the vert a really mean look to it. Also they are NHRA approved so that you can run coupe rules at any NHRA track. No more getting kicked off at 13.99 for no rollbar, you can now run to 11.99 with the hardtop.

 

[tred95]

There are several parts that are needed that could be missing.
There are 2 wrenches that are required, 1 is a torx mounted on a ratchet head for the front (windshield fasteners and the 'B' post brackets), the other is a ratcheting box end for the rear fasteners where your convertible pins now attach.
There are several button head torx screws (8mm, I think) that are required to mount to the 'B' post on each side. I got mine through a chevy dealer.
Hopefully the 'B' post brackets are still attached to the top and all that is missing are the screws.

Pete

 

[CTYANK2]

Uh, whats the "B" post?

 

[c4cruiser]

I think the hardtop is a great option to have and well worth the money. The top has an intergral roll bar and when the top is installed, the roadster is actually stiffer that the coupe. My car is much quieter inside with the top installed, it even kills some of the resonance from the B&B TriFlo's! Body rattles disappear too.

Make sure you get all of the components with the hardtop. There are 2 fairly heavy brackets that attach the top to the body pillar behind the doors. These brackets use a total of 10 Torx bolts (2 with small washers, 8 with larger ones). The windshield frame has 2 encapsulated bolts in place to hold the top to the frame. Look in the hole in the trim near the sunvisor pivot.

The hardtop should have two more bolts inside the locating pins that drop into the existing latches in the decklid. The factory provided a ratchet with a long T40 driver and a 5/16 ratcheting wrench in a pouch for installation. You will need both these tools to do the install. There is also a decklid protector that slides over the decklid and wedges in place.

The hardtops all have defoggers in the glass. There should be wires with connectors at either side of the top. The car has a hot lead in a harness that you can find near the passenger side shoulder belt mounting tower. Just dig under the carpet and you should find it It's orange/white and about 6" long. Unfortunately, the ground wire with connector for the other side is no longer available from GM so if you don't get it off the donor car, you will have to fabricate one. The OEM ground wire is just screwed to the driver side shoulder belt tower. The defogger works off the heated mirror button on the A/C control panel.

Like Scorp said, NHRA will allow you to run up to 11:99 and you should also be able to do open track days with the hardtop in place.

 

[tred95]

sorry for the confusion. c4cruiser called it the body pillar. that probably is the correct terminology. i called it the 'b' post...mostly because of its location...

Pete

 

[CTYANK2]

I think I'm getting it now...good information guys!

I heard the top is heavy...like 100 pounds? Sounds like a 2 person job unless you get one of those lifts like I've seen in some of the popular Vet accessory/part magazines.

Also sounds like you are not going to be pulling the top on and off for the short Sunday drives. If we skip the wiring for the rear window defogger I'm envisioning about 1/2 hour maximum to install and same to remove?

 

[tred95]

I just got mine last year toward the end of the season. Lucky enough to find one in the same color as my car. Anyway, my son and I lifted it into place and then bolted it down. I would never try to lift it myself, unless I had one of those hoists.

I didn't have instructions on installation so I had to "wing" it and made a mistake right off. I tightened the front fasteners first and then couldn't get the rear ones started. The trick is to just start the front, start the rear, and start the ones on the main bracket. Then go back and tighten everything down leaving the big brackets at the pillar 'till last...

I can't say whether or not this is the correct procedure, but it is what worked for me. Good Luck. You will love the look.

Pete

 

[vettn94]

Pete, how much of a difference did you notice in the stiffness of the car with the hardtop ?
Does it have any squeeks or rattles ?
I'm still looking for one for my 94 in Polo Green. Haven't been able to locate one locally here, seem pretty expensive to ship and too easily damaged.
I'd really like to get one so I can run at the NHRA track here.

 

[tred95]

The car does seem to be more solid. The are some squeaks when you hit some hard bumps. Most of the time it is pretty quiet.
When the squeaks (there are no rattles that I'm aware of) get a little too frequent, then I know it is time to go over the fasteners and retighten.

There is a guy in our club that races. He uses his hardtop only for that reason...it is not the same color as his car...

I was lucky enough to find my top within an hours drive. My son and I went to get it with his pickup. I wrapped it in blankets, but was still pretty nervous till I got home. I'm thinking anyone that has one for sale would be very conciencious about packaging it for shipment.

I like mine, it really adds to the 'look' of the car.

Pete

 

[vettn94]

There is a guy in our club that races. He uses his hardtop only for that reason...it is not the same color as his car...

Thanks for the info. That is the main reason I want it but I also want it to match the car, I really like the look of the hardtop.

 

[CTYANK2]

I've seen some tops for sale but none at the right price yet. Seems like many of these tops have already been repainted. Many have at least "handling" chips, scratches, and worse (dents) even when described as being in real good condition.
If I find one at the right price some day I'll probably just have it painted to match my color. At least that way when it gets scratched it will be my own doing.

 

[tred95]

What are the tops going for right now? Last year I got mine for under $1000. and it was in like new condition. The weatherstripping wasn't even cracking.

In '95 they were a $2000. option.

I'm thinking they are a pretty good investment because there are always people looking for one. I believe that most guys sell their cars and then sell the top seperately. At least that how I got mine.

 

[C44EVER]

The top and all its mounting hardware weigh exactly 71 lbs. I weighed mine after I bought it on e-bay for $710.00. They come up on e-bay all the time. The cost varies according to condition and equipment of course. If you purchase one on e-bay consider the shipping costs, it could be substancial. I found it was cheaper to drive from Mid-Fl to Miami than it was to pay the shipping costs. Like I said it only weighs 71 lbs but it is very big and bulky. It must be crated to ship safely the trailing edge of the top (below the rear glass) is very sussesible (sp) to chipping. Plan on 300-500 bucks to have it painted professionally including any chip repair.

Good luck,