Header Gasket?

[72Sting]

Noticed a ticking in the engine only when accelerating. Don't hear anything when revving in park. Was told I need a header gasket. Does that sound right? If so, I know the gasket is no big deal, but what kind of labor am I looking at? Is it a time consuming job?

 

[Driftwood]

header gasket

I question a header leak if you don't hear it when revving in park. I would think an exhaust leak would be there whenever the engine is running. Are you sure it's not pinging-- like from running too low octane gas or engine too advanced? If you do change the header gasket it's a very easy job I just did a month ago. I had to remove the header to pull the starter. I had to get the car off the ground a little, so I could pull the header out from under the car. But you don't need to remove it-- just loosen it. You'll probably have to remove the header bolts at the engine block and also the bolts that connect your header to the lower exhaust. When you look at the header you'll see there's very little surface to seal the header-- basically the weld around each of the 4 header tubes.

I also currently have a header leak on the passenger side. I originally installed a gasket with a 1.5" port diameter. Looking at the gasket I can see there are spots that are still metal to metal. I'm going to try a 1.38" diameter gasket this weekend and see if it helps.

Another question-- do you guys put lock washers or anything on your header bolts? I looked at mine tonight and they were all a little loose. What's the proper torque for header bolts?

 

[JohnZ]

Re: header gasket

Another question-- do you guys put lock washers or anything on your header bolts? I looked at mine tonight and they were all a little loose. What's the proper torque for header bolts?

Header bolts will ALWAYS loosen up over time because they're so short; the production cast iron manifold bolts are quite long, and can stretch under torque to develop long-lasting clamping force on the joint. The short header bolts aren't long enough to stretch and develop that force, so they loosen up under heat cycling. I've always used ARP NASCAR header bolts on my race cars, which are pre-drilled for safety wire, and safety-wired mine with .032" stainless lock wire - never, ever had any loosen up - no noise, no blown gaskets. Another good solution is the "Stage 8" locking header bolts.

Headers are a huge PITA for lots of reasons on an everyday car, and provide very little gain with a normal exhaust system behind them, but if you have them, try the "Stage 8" bolts. Either those bolts or safety-wired bolts are the ONLY real cures for header bolts that loosen up.

 

[MaineShark]

Ditto. Also, looking at other locking systems, I just saw this the other day.

Joe

 

[Driftwood]

The Breslin split lock bolts look interesting, but haven't found anywhere online that sells them. They look like a more elegant solution than the Stage 8 bolts.

 

[69autoXr]

On my '69 I was able to use lock washers on my header bolts only because my headers have 1 5/8" primary tubes. My dad's '70 has Hooker headers and sidepipes, with bigger primary tubes ( 1 3/4 or 1 7/8", something like that) and there's no way to get lock washers on any of the bolts. I put header gaskets on his car usually every summer, depending on how much the car is used.

 

[Driftwood]

Guinea Pig

Maybe I'll be the guinea pig and order the split lock header bolts. I'll let everyone know how it goes. I have two options-- 1. oxide or stainless steel finish. Unless someone has another opinion I'll try SS. Option 2-- 3/4" or 1" long bolts. I guess 1" is for thick header flanges, which I don't think I have, so I'll order 3/4".