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Help! Headlight motor keeps running

Well after doing the right side this morning and resting till after lunch I went out and tackled the drivers side. I see now why some of you said to do that side first. It was totally different then the other side I took off the cover and there was the back side of the gear with the buttons right there. All three were very yellow and so I went ahead and replaced them. They looked like they were beginning to flake some also.

both work now if I could just see at night to drive then.
 
Just had to do my headlights too!

I have a 96 LT4 and noticed recently that the passenger headlight motor would continue to run for a few seconds after the headlights were turned off. Found great information on this site including where to get the plugs to replace the ones that turned to dust. I bought them at Autozone for $8.99 They are Ford window regulator plugs. I found the part number on the Autozone website and then went to the local store and bought enough to do both headlights. The driver's side wasn't as bad but had already started to crumble. I should be good for another 16 yrs!
 
An other loccation is Home Depot. They are about 30 cents each in the fasteners dept. Look for nylon "spacers."
 
Never would have thought about that

An other loccation is Home Depot. They are about 30 cents each in the fasteners dept. Look for nylon "spacers."

Wow, I never would have looked there! That's way cheaper than the alternative!!!
 
GM used delrin not nylon because it offers better compression strength. Will nylon deform over time in this application? Does GM know something we don't? Not sure which ages better, but delrin seems to good for 20-25 years. :L
 
Delrin

Not too sure about the compressibility of delrin and nylon. The delrin only lasted 16 years in my case (1996 model). As far as deforming under pressure, there isn't a large amount of force required to roll the headlights. When the motion stops, there shouldn't be any force on the bushings. Their purpose is to absorb shock and transfer the torque from the outer gear to the inner hub. Nylon may deform a little more than the delrin but probably not enough to matter. It will probably last a long time. I have read where some have even used wooden dowels successfully. Now that was a clever idea.
 
You just need to use something that will wear out before the gear wheel, for obvious reasons. I have experimented with different material in other similar motor assemblies, even wound up elastic bands will work. Regarding the terror that seems to be associated with the removal of the worm drive, it is not at all that difficult. I used 2 paper clips, bent suitably, so that I could holde the 2 bushes apart, with one hand, whilst I inserted the worm drive with the other. And I am not at all dexterous........Roger.
 
Disengaging Worm Gear

Roger, I have learned so much from this site from guys like you. Sometimes, I learn after the fact! When I was replacing the bushings in the headlight drive assembly I ran into the same problem of getting the big nylon gear out of the case. The first one I did, I removed the motor stator assembly. Of course, then you have to deal with getting the thing back together. As mentioned in previous thread, you can use paper clips. However, on the second one I did, I just loosened the two screws that hold the motor on and had enough movement to be able to lift out the nylon gear. Saved me a little time and hassle.
 
Coyote, Yes, the passenger side can be done by simply removing the gear but, the other side, no, unless you file it. I decided not to do this, hence, why I removed the worm drive........Roger.
 
I didn't have to do that to mine. Must be a difference in the model year. Just loosening the screws worked for mine.
 
I didn't have to do that to mine. Must be a difference in the model year. Just loosening the screws worked for mine.
Same on my 1989. I did not need to file the gear or remove the motor. Required just a little extra play.
 

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