Z
zgator
Guest
They close fine but won't open.This is on my 82.Any sugestions on what I need to replace?At first my driver side was slow but did go up now both won't opern at all.
- Thread starter
- #2
V
vmrod
Guest
Check all of the vaccuum hoses first. It could be something so simple as a pinched hose.
Here's a diagram that may help you out. It is not pretty, but it is accurate.
http://home.comcast.net/~chadwick.robert/HEADLIGHT-SCHEMATIC.pdf
Bob Chadwick may have other useful info on his homepage.
Here's a diagram that may help you out. It is not pretty, but it is accurate.
http://home.comcast.net/~chadwick.robert/HEADLIGHT-SCHEMATIC.pdf
Bob Chadwick may have other useful info on his homepage.
kiwi vet
Well-known member
zgator said:
Hey ZGator,
Man are you a fortune teller!, how do you know they close fine when they won't open?
No but seriously, when I got mine, the passenger side would start (slooooowly) then the driver side would pop up. Found I had the standard (or so it seems) lazy eyed vette. After a little checking I found a loose vacumn connection, tightened it and hey preseto, now I have 2 sloooowly raising headlights, but at least they are even.
I dont know why they persevered with vacum, it doesnt work
. But a least we only have to worry about the lamps, as those earlier vette worshippers never had this problem when it was raining, cause they can never see out of the screen. Question, (trying to be serious now) has anyone thought about doing/ or seen an electric motor conversion for the headlights? I think you might have say an average of 30k sales per year for the (1968 - 1982 = 14yrs) next 14 years!!!!.
Kiwi Vette- Thread starter
- #4
V
vmrod
Guest
Look up the member 69myway. He has a product called 'Killer lights' that he has created. It replaces the vaccuum lights with electric lights.
74bigblock
Well-known member
vmrod said:
Yep... it uses the electrics and drive mechanisms out of Gen 4 Camaro/Firebird (Easy and cheap to come by).
jdp6000
Well-known member
If the vac lines are okay I would say its the magicians hat shaper seals at the front of the actuators. Find the hose that goes to the front of each actuator and blow into it. No resistance means the seals are gone. they are available at Ecklers for about $5 each.
Jim
Jim
kiwi vet
Well-known member
vmrod said:
Thanks for that VRod
I'll check it out!
Kiwi Vette- Thread starter
- #8
Z
zgator
Guest
JDP6000,so what you are saying is that there should be no resistance in the line?
jdp6000
Well-known member
There should be resistance at some point. Its like blowing into a balloon. Its been a while. What happens is the headlight assembly will rise or go down when you either blow or suck I'm not sure which. You will figure it out when you try it. If nothing happens and you can blow or suck endlessly then the magician hat shaped seal is gone.
The rear of the actuator runs under the same principle...once again blowing or sucking will cause the light to open or close. No resistance means the seal is gone.The rear part has the seal internally. I hear this seal is not repairable but then again it rarely goes. its not exposed to the elements.
Here is what the seals look like.
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=43857&dept%5Fid=1475&mscssid=0UCG3EFQ247F8PGNDGBMJFBK8BV32G08
This will be the easiest thing you have ever fixed. Take the fiber glass cover off the head light so you can see what your are doing. I simply took my two actuators out. each is held in by 4 bolts. They drop out through the bottom. If I recall one was a pain. I had to manuever it towards the rad then carefully close the hood and then reach up and pull it out. You will see what I mean (unless yours is different then my 1982) one will give you trouble...lack of space.
Jim
Jim
The rear of the actuator runs under the same principle...once again blowing or sucking will cause the light to open or close. No resistance means the seal is gone.The rear part has the seal internally. I hear this seal is not repairable but then again it rarely goes. its not exposed to the elements.
Here is what the seals look like.
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=43857&dept%5Fid=1475&mscssid=0UCG3EFQ247F8PGNDGBMJFBK8BV32G08
This will be the easiest thing you have ever fixed. Take the fiber glass cover off the head light so you can see what your are doing. I simply took my two actuators out. each is held in by 4 bolts. They drop out through the bottom. If I recall one was a pain. I had to manuever it towards the rad then carefully close the hood and then reach up and pull it out. You will see what I mean (unless yours is different then my 1982) one will give you trouble...lack of space.
Jim
Jim
- Thread starter
- #10
Z
zgator
Guest
So if the problem is what you say it is I have to take out the Vac canisters.It looks like I can do it with removing them but then again I haven't really looked all that good.Thanks for the tip,at least I undertand what you are talking about.I see where mid america sells these about $5.00 cheaper than Ecklers.Is this the same kit or does the ecklers kit have more parts to it?
jdp6000
Well-known member
I'm not sure in the parts diffrence. The Ecklers is what you need. You can do it on car but its tough to get the end piece of the piston. The end piece is in the shape of a needles eye and is screwed on to the piston. You need to grasp the piston to screw off the end piece. Its the reason I took mine out.
Jim
Jim
- Thread starter
- #12
Z
zgator
Guest
Thanks,you've been a lot of help.I did check and Ecklers does seem the way to go.It does have a couple of more pieces.
srs244
Well-known member
jdp6000 said:
the piece you are referring to is call the "clevis" and it is easily removed with everything in tact. assuming you have no vacuum line problems, there can basically only be 2 other problems a bad actuator (not really likely unless it has rusted out) or bad seals. the easiest way to work on the boot and seal on each actuator is the way the factory recommends: by removing the grill and working in the opening. the clevis is held onto the lower mechanism by a pin inserted through the mounting bracket (with the clevis running through the center of it). the pin is held in place by 2 springs that provide tension and prevent the mechanism from slipping out. simply remove the spring on either side of the pin that runs through the clevis. remove the pin and then you can manually open the headlight door. the clevis is now exposed (as the actuator remains in place) and can be simply unscrewed with everything else left intact. there will be a ribbed boot over the seal. you can slide the boot off easily and then remove the seal if necessary. to replace the seal, be careful not to "rub" the seal across the screw threads that are exposed on the clevis rod. you can either apply a generous amount of dishwashing soap to the threads before you slide the seal over them, or use a plastic drinking straw inside the seal and slide the entire thing over the threads on the rod. once past the threads, simply remove the straw (again some soap will help on the straw so that it will pull out of the rubber seal easily). then reverse the clevis removal steps to reinstall and you are good to go. the kit you would need for this job is simply 2 rubber seals and 2 rubber boots. if i remember correctly should be about $24.00 for all parts. the parts are the same whether you get them from eckler's, corvette central, or any of the other parts houses. find the best deal.
jdp6000
Well-known member
Good description. I knew there were proper names for all those parts.
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks,
Jim
srs244
Well-known member
glad to help. feel free to give me a shout if you need some additional help. i went through it all getting my 78 pace car lamps to function properly (changed out all the vacuum lines, filter, checkvalve etc. then realized that in addition to all that (which was necessary anyway), the seal on the 1 actuator that i didn't replace completely was shot in addition. so i've been there, done that, so to speak and learned alot about what worked easily and where i made it much more difficult than i had to, lol. i am only too happy to help someone else not have to go through the trail and error method to solve their problems, lol. it is most important to not rough up the seal putting it onto the clevis rod over the threaded portion. it will cause the new seal to leak if you scrap it up enough. it is a real tight fit (obviously to insure the "seal") so it is tight going over the threaded portion of the clevis rod which is actually a tiny bit larger in diameter (and much rougher) than the rest of the rod due to the threads.
steve
steve
- Thread starter
- #16
Z
zgator
Guest
WOW!! that was explained so even an idiot like myself can do it.Thanks a bunch.I'll have to print it out though.
craig32
Well-known member
OK, I'm in the same boat as zgator. The lights won't come up with the switch, or the bypass, but if you lift them by hand, they go right down when you turn off the switch. I have 20lbs vacuum at the canister, 15 lbs out of the canister, 18 lbs at the 'T' to the tops of the relays. Blowing in the hoses on the back (engine side) of the actuators make them start to open. Is this looking like both vacuum relays are bad? I asked this before and all I got was jokes about my 'hose being crossed' and 'putting tape on it' If anyone really knows, please let me know. Thanks again.
Craig
Craig
- Thread starter
- #19
V
vmrod
Guest
Bagger,
the hose going to your override switch may be reversed. Try swapping them.
Craig,
Have you ever changed out your headlight switch or override switch? The hoses could be reversed on those as well.
This may be lengthy, but this will ensure that the controls portion of your car is hooked up correctly. Follow step by step and ask questions if you get stuck. It should not be difficult, just a few steps.
1.) Put the headlight switch and the override switch in the 'off/lamps-down' position.
2.) Disconnect 1 hose from the override switch. (Now start car, headlights may or may not go up.)
3.) Is vaccuum present at disconnected hose? (should hear it and/or feel it) If no vaccuum, then plug the hose back in and disconnect the other one from the override switch. (The idea is to find the hose drawing vaccuum.) If neither one is drawing vaccum, then you have a vaccuum leak near the manifold or a faulty headlight switch.
4.) With vaccuuming hose (hissing) end in hand, pull on headlight switch. (The vaccuum should go off.)
5.) Next try to either suck or blow into the disconnect hose. If you are able to freely suck or blow into this while the headlights are in the 'on' position, then proceed to step #6 below. If you cannot freely suck or blow thru this hose, then it sounds like your headlight switch is tubed up opposite of what it should be. You would then reverse hoses on back of headlight switch then proceed to step #6.)
6.) If you have made it this far, then it means that you are getting vaccuum to your headlight switch and that it is connected properly. You can now shutoff the headlight switch and your car for the remainder of the tests.
7.) Next, you need a small 'test' hose that you will connect into the override switch at the disconnected port. This test-hose need to be long enough for you to blow into.
8.) Disconnect the 2nd hose from the disconnect port and let it hang. This is the hose that goes to your actuator relays.
9.) Blow/suck on the test-hose. You should be able to blow/suck freely. Now pull the override switch to the 'lamp open' position.
10.) Blow/suck on the test-hose. You should NOT be able to blow through the tes-hose with the override switch in the 'lamp open' position (goto #11). If you can still blow/suck freely, then put the test-hose onto the other disconnected port. (your switch was tubed opposite.) Once switched, repeat #10.
11.) Remove the test-hose from the disconnect switch. Connect the vaccuum hose that comes from the headlight switch into this port. (the hose that had the vaccuum coming from it with the car running.)
12.) If you switched the hoses on at least one switch, then you likely have fixed your problem. Connect the remaining hose into the override switch. Start your car and try it out.
13.) If your headlights still do not raise after this, then you will have to check the main vaccuum supply running to the headlight actuators. You may have a pinched/crushed hose, or leaky actuator seals.
I will help out furthur if needed.
-Vrod
the hose going to your override switch may be reversed. Try swapping them.
Craig,
Have you ever changed out your headlight switch or override switch? The hoses could be reversed on those as well.
This may be lengthy, but this will ensure that the controls portion of your car is hooked up correctly. Follow step by step and ask questions if you get stuck. It should not be difficult, just a few steps.
1.) Put the headlight switch and the override switch in the 'off/lamps-down' position.
2.) Disconnect 1 hose from the override switch. (Now start car, headlights may or may not go up.)
3.) Is vaccuum present at disconnected hose? (should hear it and/or feel it) If no vaccuum, then plug the hose back in and disconnect the other one from the override switch. (The idea is to find the hose drawing vaccuum.) If neither one is drawing vaccum, then you have a vaccuum leak near the manifold or a faulty headlight switch.
4.) With vaccuuming hose (hissing) end in hand, pull on headlight switch. (The vaccuum should go off.)
5.) Next try to either suck or blow into the disconnect hose. If you are able to freely suck or blow into this while the headlights are in the 'on' position, then proceed to step #6 below. If you cannot freely suck or blow thru this hose, then it sounds like your headlight switch is tubed up opposite of what it should be. You would then reverse hoses on back of headlight switch then proceed to step #6.)
6.) If you have made it this far, then it means that you are getting vaccuum to your headlight switch and that it is connected properly. You can now shutoff the headlight switch and your car for the remainder of the tests.
7.) Next, you need a small 'test' hose that you will connect into the override switch at the disconnected port. This test-hose need to be long enough for you to blow into.
8.) Disconnect the 2nd hose from the disconnect port and let it hang. This is the hose that goes to your actuator relays.
9.) Blow/suck on the test-hose. You should be able to blow/suck freely. Now pull the override switch to the 'lamp open' position.
10.) Blow/suck on the test-hose. You should NOT be able to blow through the tes-hose with the override switch in the 'lamp open' position (goto #11). If you can still blow/suck freely, then put the test-hose onto the other disconnected port. (your switch was tubed opposite.) Once switched, repeat #10.
11.) Remove the test-hose from the disconnect switch. Connect the vaccuum hose that comes from the headlight switch into this port. (the hose that had the vaccuum coming from it with the car running.)
12.) If you switched the hoses on at least one switch, then you likely have fixed your problem. Connect the remaining hose into the override switch. Start your car and try it out.
13.) If your headlights still do not raise after this, then you will have to check the main vaccuum supply running to the headlight actuators. You may have a pinched/crushed hose, or leaky actuator seals.
I will help out furthur if needed.
-Vrod
I just replaced both actuators on mine yesterday. Pretty easy to do....Now they both go up and down together and fast......I traced the lines and checked both relays before I ordered the Actuators and everything was fine. The Actuators was the fix.....Similar threads
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