HELP !!! 94 LT1 Starting Problems

[DMGroh]

Just recently, I had a violent mis after running in traffic for an hour. It would only start fully floored, and even then it was very rough and I had to keep the rpm's up to keep from stalling. It was difficult to get the rpm's low enough to get in gear (Automatic) without either damaging the tranny or stalling the motor.

It's up on jack stands now getting a new opti & wires, as well as cleaning & testing every electrical contact, connector & ground I can find.

Just got inside my opti and found the source of my problem. 1 of those tiny torx screws holding the rotor backed out and was laying around inside there. With only 1 screw holding the rotor, it can flex quite a bit and caused the violent jerking/miss I had. The screw that fell out was not nicked or beat-up, so I believe the problem was from the rotor flexing. There were no carbon traces, but the contacts on the cap were screaming for replacement. Sure glad I went in there.

Question for the "Wiser/Better Informed/Experienced more problems than I have (yet)": Should I take out the rotor screws from the new GM opti and loc-tite them? Would they already have loc-tite? Any advice here?

Comment on a 10 year old rotor. I was surprised at how much the plastic had deteriorated..it was about to break into pieces and there were no signs of blunt force trauma. If you guys are upgrading to an aftermarket unit and decide to keep the rotor in there as a spacer, you might want to think twice about re-using the old rotor.

 

[Robertwav1]

That would be enough for me to check out the opti....gremlins can make your car run like that....you certainly found them in your cap....nice find!

 

[GENOSPAL]

Injectors dumping fuel

My 1994 lt1 is having starting issues as well. Very recent. Normally starts like a charm.

The fuel pressure tested out okay earlier this week, but the pressure regulator was pulling off about 11 lbs of pressure (43 lbs vs. 32 lbs).

I'm about to test the injectors. I've not checked yet, but i guess the ohm's will indicate which ones might be bad. Any idea's on what the acceptable range is for the injectors?

Is the fuel relay the only thing that needs to be pulled in order to keep the fuel pump from putting pressure to the injector rail? Is there some other fuse besides? How much cranking of the engine will be necessary to clear the flooded cylinder(s) ?

Thanks for all of your help