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Help on seconadry system

Yes. Actually im looking forward to getting the plenum off, i will do things step by step as advised, Im not going to rush.
I just received this car. The owner got it in trade at their chevy dealership. I had it shipped. All the work done was in the dealerships shop.
They did the following. to the engine. Complete gasket set,pulled the oilpan replaced main bearings (showed wear) and oilpan gasket. New starter, so the plenum has been off, all service was done spring 2007 then stored car.
I will get the plenum off. Is there a need to drain the coolant?
 
No need to drain the coolant. When you unhook the coolant line going to the throttle body very little will come out. Do you still have the ratchet that came with the car that takes off the roof? If so its the same size that all the bolts are for taking off the plenum T-40 torx. I recommend getting a socket set of them instead. And a 1/4 3/8 1/2 drive speeder bars. Then you can unscrew them really quick. And when your ready to change spark plugs, #1 through 7 are easy. #8 is a pain. I've figured it out. You'll need a 1/2 drive flex T-handle two of the shortest 1/2 drive extensions one 1/2 drive swivel and a telescoping magnet. But I don't want to get to far ahead of you. I'm glad to pass on all of the things I've learned by working on my ZR-1 over the passed year. And all of it was without a manual. It's all pretty much common sense. I do recommend having the manual (which I barrowd from another ZR-1 buddy in town) when you replace the clutch or something really major. Not that I learned any great magic seacrets from it. But for torque specs and such.
 
on the plastic vaccume lines you can buy bulk at your local auto store .borrow the wifes hair dryer and bend to match the one in ?. no nee to buy that 250. one you can sorce everything from napa as i did .i will try to make a parts list for it for all .just really busy so please be patient
 
on the plastic vaccume lines you can buy bulk at your local auto store .borrow the wifes hair dryer and bend to match the one in ?. no nee to buy that 250. one you can sorce everything from napa as i did .i will try to make a parts list for it for all .just really busy so please be patient

Yes, Napa has a nylon air line almost identical to the stock black line, not quite as thick but looks pretty durable. Also used some top notch fuel injection line as connectors. works very well.
Going to pull plenum today. Thanks Will post my findings and will require more help im sure.
 
email sent

on the plastic vaccume lines you can buy bulk at your local auto store .borrow the wifes hair dryer and bend to match the one in ?. no nee to buy that 250. one you can sorce everything from napa as i did .i will try to make a parts list for it for all .just really busy so please be patient
email/Pm sent:)
 
Well so far I have found the following.
Torn Pvc connector on the coiled line under plenum, broken vacuum line from air unit on front, torn pvc line with the dual pvc valves, bad actuator, broken valve linkage. So im pretty happy. Also the "new starter was clicking" turned out its new, but the terminal was loose. Parts on the way. Thanks
 
Well I found the vacuum line at nappa. I ordered a actuator linkage and got it today. I have a actuator on the way from a forum member. How many check valves should be under there?
 
Another question

Did a vacuum check on the vacuum solenoid. i get a sloww loss of vacuum on any of the 3 ports when others are plugged. Where do they have these for price listed??
 
When the solenoid is not engergized.

You should be able to pull a vacuum on port 2
You should not be able to blow air thru port 2 to either port 1 or port 3

You should be able to blow air thru port 1 to port 3

When the solenoid is energized. (Full power mode)

Air flows from port 2 to port 1. This would be the vacuum from the vacuum source to the actuators.

The purpose of port 3 is to vent to the atmosphere any vacuum left in the secondary circuit when the actuators close. So when the solenoid is energized port 3 should have no path to either port 1 or port 2.

The part# for the control solenoid is 1997222
Still available from GM for around $35.00
lt5solenoid.jpg
 
When the solenoid is not engergized.

You should be able to pull a vacuum on port 2
You should not be able to blow air thru port 2 to either port 1 or port 3

You should be able to blow air thru port 1 to port 3

When the solenoid is energized. (Full power mode)

Air flows from port 2 to port 1. This would be the vacuum from the vacuum source to the actuators.

The purpose of port 3 is to vent to the atmosphere any vacuum left in the secondary circuit when the actuators close. So when the solenoid is energized port 3 should have no path to either port 1 or port 2.

The part# for the control solenoid is 1997222
Still available from GM for around $35.00
lt5solenoid.jpg


THANK YOU
 
Thanks for all the help. Everything you guys said is true and helped. Getting things sorted out and doing well. Used a spray oil on the Check valve cleaned it right out. I had to order and change a port linkage but got it and installed works well. Going great and thanks!
 
Thanks for all the help! I have located and corrected several things under the plenum, have gotten parts fro you guys and am putting the plenum on this weekend to test out the power. m
 
Full Power

Thanks to you guys I now have secondary operation. goosed it a bit after a turn and she started smoking 'em and almost lost control.:D
Heres what i found wrong.
1) Bad vac line from front
2) Ripped Pcv Connector left side outside
3) Taped/torn pcv line under the pcv valves
4) Bad actuator left side
5) Bad actuator linkage right
6) Leaking check valve
7) leaking vacuum line from pump
8) Loose connections on brand new starter.

I checked secondary operation before i replaced the plenum By grounding the ecm wire from c-17 pink w?black stripe. actuators open right up. On went the plenum and im off
Thanks for the help. Cool Car
 
After removing your plenum 5 or 10 times you'll be able to have it off in about 5 minutes.

5 or 10 times..............once is enough thank you,but it wasnt as bad as I had expected.Once your in there you might as well replace the injectors.This is one of those things that can snowball.Once I got the fuel rails off I decided to remove everything else to clean the block valley.New coils and plug wires.IMG]
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Yeah but sometimes it can take more than a few times to narrow down which part is bad especially when the only way to tell if its fixed is to put it all back together and drive it. And see if you get an SES code 61 light again. And when it does pop up again guess what! You've got to take the plenum back off again.
 
Yeah but sometimes it can take more than a few times to narrow down which part is bad especially when the only way to tell if its fixed is to put it all back together and drive it. And see if you get an SES code 61 light again. And when it does pop up again guess what! You've got to take the plenum back off again.

Well.I just had to go and open my mouth.I got the car back together,and Ive got a vacuum leak.The car runs good but you can hear the hiss coming from under the plenum or at the back somewhere.Ive got the plenum off but cant find anything out of order and the idle is up around 1000 RPM.Any tips?:ugh.
 
:beerold guy trick to find vaccume leak .propane torch , put a 3ft sec of 5/16 hose.turn car on . thenturn on the torch (dont light hehe) runthe the end of the hose around suspect ares when you find a leak the rpms will rrise .hope this helps
 
:beerold guy trick to find vaccume leak .propane torch , put a 3ft sec of 5/16 hose.turn car on . thenturn on the torch (dont light hehe) runthe the end of the hose around suspect ares when you find a leak the rpms will rrise .hope this helps

jonszr1 is right. You can also pour gasoline into a squirt bottle and squirt it around the plenum gasket or where you suspect the leak is and RPM's will rise when you find it.
 

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