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I just recently purchased a 78 anniversary stingray and i would like to make some hp modifications. What would be the first thing that i should consider looking at?
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78SilvAnniv said:I don't have any experience with mod-ing an engine, but from reading here at CAC, you can gain some hp by changing your exhaust and/or using headers. (I prefer to stay away from headers unless you have monster hp) Overall, I think you would be better served to re-do your block with a cam, heads, intake and exhaust manifolds that match and a bigger carburator.
Do NOTHING for the first 6 months! (Except necessary repairs, of course.) There's a lot for you to learn about Corvette culture -- not to mention the quirks these car have.
This is another good idea. You should learn the car and how it handles before you do anything major. Remember, once you start you won't be able to stop, you'll make mods and then drive for a bit, then that won't be enough and you'll have to do more and more. Speed is an adiction, a lovely adiction, but an adiction nevertheless.
Agreed! But once you're beyond that & do want more ... One of the first things to do for more power AND economy is the easiest & cheapest (also unnoticeable impact on originality/appearance). Go through the distributor. Make sure everything is in good condition ... then pay close attention to Lar's papers on vacuum & mechanical advance curves ... make recommended changes to the curve. Lighting the fire at precisely the optimum moment is as important as anything on anyone's list of add-ons. I recall Lar's papers are archived here through knowledgebase ... and other sites. An $8 vacuum can & a $5 mech advance spring kit ... carefully dialed-in ... does wonders for cars from early days of anti-smog era (ie 71-81 C3).page62 said:Do NOTHING for the first 6 months! (Except necessary repairs, of course.) There's a lot for you to learn about Corvette culture -- not to mention the quirks these car have.
You may find you have a numbers-matching car that you want to preserve. Or smog regulations where you live may prevent you from doing certain things. You haven't even told us if the engine is an L48 or an L82.
By the way, the last thing you want to do is install those silly underdrive pulleys. You wouldn't even notice the difference. And these cars need all the fan cooling and water pump speed they can get.
Jack --- Go through the distributor. Make sure everything is in good condition ... then pay close attention to Lar's papers on vacuum & mechanical advance curves ... make recommended changes to the curve. Lighting the fire at precisely the optimum moment is as important as anything on anyone's list of add-ons. I recall Lar's papers are archived here through knowledgebase ... and other sites. An $8 vacuum can & a $5 mech advance spring kit ... carefully dialed-in ... does wonders for cars from early days of anti-smog era (ie 71-81 C3).
Ganey said:Of course tuning is important, a part of any setup, but not the primary way to HP. Just standard operating procedure. /QUOTE]
Your info on exhausts ... particularly the restrictions of 2-1 is very good, grounded in reality and info I'd encourage others to consider ... even follow up on. True duals is sop for me ... but not so for other folks. Hence, the good info from you.
You're essentially right that distributor stuff is sop ... it is sop for you & I. But too many folks overlook recurve or are unaware of its importance as they get caught up in excitement of cams & headers etc. IMHO, a proper recurve (as opposed to factory settings) is probably the best bang for the buck a smog era C3'er will find. Applies to most other GM V8s from same era as well.
I tend to agree vettepilot's item # 1 !
JACK:gap