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how do you get the rear cross member off the car?

firstgear

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15 Z06, 01 Vert, 63 SWC & 60 ALL RED
I know this is the C2 section, but I am assuming the rear cross member is the same on C2 and C3.

this is a 1977, we are removing the rear differental cover on the rear axle housing and we have all the bolts free, but can't get the cross member off the frame. We took the two bolts off (one on each end) and whacked it with a rubber hammer. The front part of the diffrerental moved and we drained the oil, but we can't figure out what the trick is to get the cross member down.

Anyone?????
 
remove the differential

put a 5 gallon plastic bucket under the diff cover (assume you have the car high enough, so be creative)

take a VERY stout crow bar and, working around the edge of each sombrero gasket, try to leverage free each side...if it goes, it will sound like a gun shot


that's the grunt way of doing it if you need to drop it right away but if you don't......

keep the bucket under there as before, use a screwdriver (or ideally, an old screwdriver bent 90* near the tip so that you can get in under the cross member) to open up a space between the gasket and frame and spray as much WD40 as you can into the space....spray it around the entire gasket on both sides....after a few days of repeating that, you'll find the diff cover/cross member in the bucket one morning....worked 3 out of 4 times for me...

you'll never get it off with a rubber hammer, it is really tough in most instances


good luck
 
Herb,

Get yourself a Crow bar that is at least 3 feet long, and pry down on the crossemmber adjacent ot the "sombreros". Spray some WD40 or silicone spray, and just keep going from one side to the other until it turns loose. I did a 67 a couple of weeks ago that had not been removed since it was built, and I bent my crowbar shaft getting it off. The rubber in these mounts will really grab. Don't waste your time with a rubber hammer, you will just wear your arm out and accomplish nothing!
I usually leave the entire weight of the rearend hanging from the crossmember, as the weight helps, but it will come loose eventually.


Regards, John McGraw
 
remove the differential

put a 5 gallon plastic bucket under the diff cover (assume you have the car high enough, so be creative)

take a VERY stout crow bar and, working around the edge of each sombrero gasket, try to leverage free each side...if it goes, it will sound like a gun shot


that's the grunt way of doing it if you need to drop it right away but if you don't......

keep the bucket under there as before, use a screwdriver (or ideally, an old screwdriver bent 90* near the tip so that you can get in under the cross member) to open up a space between the gasket and frame and spray as much WD40 as you can into the space....spray it around the entire gasket on both sides....after a few days of repeating that, you'll find the diff cover/cross member in the bucket one morning....worked 3 out of 4 times for me...

you'll never get it off with a rubber hammer, it is really tough in most instances


good luck
it is a BEAR for sure....I broke my gear puller trying to get it off, tomorrow I will go to Sears and get another, then I will pull back down again and shoot some PB blaster on that sucker....then let it sit and have at it again....

I have the car up on my 4 post lift. got the back cover bolts off and all that is holding it on now is those two areas. It will come off!!!! But sure is tough, for sure!!!

regards, Herb
 
Herb

I think the gear puller is a waste.

Get some PB blaster soaking in it.

Get a set of longer bolts in there to hold the unit up when it finally pops free.

I am assuming you allready got the spring out?

I used a plastic "maul" ? like you use for getting a chain saw blade unstuck and then drove it in around the edges ,Just when I thought I could nver get it off I just tweeaked the end of it with a long pry bar and it came off . Mine is a little differant but here is a picture

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1006&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
 
Well Herb,
When I dropped mine on the 67 to put fiberglas spring I put a heavy duty diff. cover.I sprayed tons of pb blaster and a 4ft bar.The pass.side finally broke loose,but the drivers side ended braking the welds on the bracket that attaches to the frame.
I did not have to remove the differencial though,just jacked up the frame to give me enough room to get the diff.cover off and out of the way of the crossmember.
Hope you've got it off by now..
 
I know this is the C2 section, but I am assuming the rear cross member is the same on C2 and C3.

this is a 1977, we are removing the rear differental cover on the rear axle housing and we have all the bolts free, but can't get the cross member off the frame. We took the two bolts off (one on each end) and whacked it with a rubber hammer. The front part of the diffrerental moved and we drained the oil, but we can't figure out what the trick is to get the cross member down.

Anyone?????

With differental supported and tires off take a 3' crowbar and pry between the diff. crossmember and the frame and it will pop out.
 
DO NOT use a puller!! If the center pusher bolt on the puller knocks the weld nut off the "sombrero" formation on the frame, you'll have to pull the body off the frame to repair it. You need a REAL prybar - photo below is a buddy with his prybar, used exclusively for popping diff crossmembers loose - it's five feet long. :)
 
all good advice, but i'm tellin' ya, it will drop into the bucket if you do it correctly:D
 
Just finished taking mine down, here is what I did
Soak Sombaros with PB or equivilent peneratrating oil for at least a week, hit them every day with a good amount
Leave differential front mount attached so when it pops off the this will help hold it
Remove stock bolts and replace with 3 in long bolts
Place a jack under the differential
Place a crowbar between frame mount and differential crossmember and pry down, NOT UP so if something slips you do not take out the wheel well lip
Repeat each side until you see some give in the rubber, once it does it will pop off
The differential is now hanging by the 3 in bolts, remove the front mount and now it's hanging by the 3 in bolts
Get a friend and position the jack under the CG of the diff and guide the assy down
This worked for me. If you run into trouble let me know
:upthumbs
 
Just finished taking mine down, here is what I did
Soak Sombaros with PB or equivilent peneratrating oil for at least a week, hit them every day with a good amount
Leave differential front mount attached so when it pops off the this will help hold it
Remove stock bolts and replace with 3 in long bolts
Place a jack under the differential
Place a crowbar between frame mount and differential crossmember and pry down, NOT UP so if something slips you do not take out the wheel well lip
Repeat each side until you see some give in the rubber, once it does it will pop off
The differential is now hanging by the 3 in bolts, remove the front mount and now it's hanging by the 3 in bolts
Get a friend and position the jack under the CG of the diff and guide the assy down
This worked for me. If you run into trouble let me know
:upthumbs
I will hit it again with PB blaster.....We have everything apart enough to replace the rear cover, which was broken at the two bolts that tie in the leaf spring. We did not drop anything else, but took off the exhaust from the converter back, the spring and the spare tire cover.

As soon as we can drop that cross member we will be in good shape and this sucker can go back together.....

regards, Herb
 
When you put it back together, coat the inside of the upper shell of the new bushing with anti-seize first so it doesn't rust to the frame formation - next time it'll pop right off without all the grief. :)

BushingPrep650.jpg


:beer
 
When you put it back together, coat the inside of the upper shell of the new bushing with anti-seize first so it doesn't rust to the frame formation - next time it'll pop right off without all the grief. :)

BushingPrep650.jpg


:beer
we are on the same page in that regard....was already thinking that was what we would do, I didn't see any down side in doing that.....thanks for the comments.....

regards, Herb
 
DO NOT use a puller!! If the center pusher bolt on the puller knocks the weld nut off the "sombrero" formation on the frame, you'll have to pull the body off the frame to repair it. You need a REAL prybar - photo below is a buddy with his prybar, used exclusively for popping diff crossmembers loose - it's five feet long. :)


John... That guy looks like he works for the Russian Mob.......;LOL
 
I had a hell-of-a time with mine also.. Did all of the above for almost two weeks.

That S.O.B. didn't want to come off..!!! Finally took a hack saw two the rubber or what was left of it..then got in their with P/B Blaster and a Big Ass Johnson Bar.

Finally there was a loud bang and one side popped..!! Then I Jimmy Jammed the other side and down she came. What a PITA..!!!:mad
 
When you put it back together, coat the inside of the upper shell of the new bushing with anti-seize first so it doesn't rust to the frame formation - next time it'll pop right off without all the grief. :)

BushingPrep650.jpg


:beer
Glad to say, mine was not hard at all, frame is rust free. Not bragging but I slid the T/A bolts with my fingers. I must be one of the luckest people who have done a rear and suspension rebuild.
:chuckle
 
FINALLY!!!!! :Twist We got that sucker off.....when it came off you could see that the PB blaster barely even penetrated the joint! Amazing!!!

We put a 5 foot bar on it and a 28" crow bar and between the two of them it finally moved!!!

So thanks to everyone with your advice, it made a huge difference. We plan on putting it back together this Sunday when he is off work.

thanks again everyone!!! your help made a HUGE difference!!!

best regards, Herb:beer :beer :beer
 

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