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How exactly do you make a stock 350 into a 383 stroker

Usually the 383 is made by boring the cylinder .030" and adding a 3.75" crank, which comes factory in the 400 block with its large main journal.

Nowadays they make the larger stroked crank with the medium journal so that doesnt require machining, all that needs to be done is some block clearancing for the stroke (or the rods hit the block) and the cylinder boring.

Stroke gives torque, which is where the big power gain comes in.
 
Do GM crate engines come "complete" or would I still be responsible for things like the intake manifold?



 
G Winter said:
couple additions ... there was also the 262 ,267,302,307 and the 400.The pontiac 400 was diff from the chevy . Your right about the 348 and 409 being a family , it was the basis of the 396 also . The 348 and 409 had a deck that was not straight with the piston tops. It was set at a diff angle. The big block 396 427 454and the bigblock 400 ,actually 402, were much the same engines along with the 366 truck engine. I am not sure anymore, but there may have been two slightly diff 409s produced . The big block, 396 , 402 427 and 454 have a taller block and a diff bore spacing . If hib was here he would either tell you what the spacings were or give you a site with it on.
I will do a search and see what I can find for you selim
Http://antiquechevytrucks.com/contnet/engine9620Information/engine-intro-body.htm
:w this might help some.

Yes, thanks for the additions. How could I forget the high winding Z28 302? Shame on me. The 307? well, we should forget that one! We can also forget about the early 80's 262 - a real dog. Then yet another good SBC is the 305.
Terry
 
fast.asleep said:
Do GM crate engines come "complete" or would I still be responsible for things like the intake manifold?




They do come complete!

But most I've seen were made for carb setups. They can be converted to FI setups. Many member here have the ZZ4 crate engines.
 
Edmond said:
They do come complete!

But most I've seen were made for carb setups. They can be converted to FI setups. Many member here have the ZZ4 crate engines.

sweet,

I noticed the ZZ4 motor is a carb setup as well . What would you recommend for our cars. (or did Ken go that way on his latest engine project?)
 
fast.asleep said:
sweet,

I noticed the ZZ4 motor is a carb setup as well . What would you recommend for our cars. (or did Ken go that way on his latest engine project?)

Latest engine project? I didn't read anything about that but I'm pretty sure Ken's motor is a modified 400 block he got off a truck that's running at 417CID.

I've seen the ZZ383 being sold at Scoggins Dickey with Super Ram intake, which is a fuel injected setup. I'll try to find a link.

Here's a link: http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/63/Crate-Engines.htm
 
GM crates usually come with carb setup manifolds, so you would need to change the manifold to something like Accel or TPiS BigMouth.
Then either put the Superram on it, which is what you should do if you want power.....or put the old TPI-style on it. Everything bolts up.
 
thanks guys

sorry edmond, should have said "Ken's engine".
 
87blackroxi said:
You guys never cease to amaze me. Thanks for the tons of info. I checked out the links and read the posts. good stuff.

thanks,
shane

Great thread guys :beer
 
How are these engines when it comes to emmissions testing? How much cam is too much before you won't pass?
 
RoyalViking said:
How are these engines when it comes to emmissions testing? How much cam is too much before you won't pass?

I think a lot of it would have to be how you burn the chip.
 
A bigger engine would need a cam thats suited to it and also to emissions, and then you'd need the right tuner to program the chip so that it would pass the sniffer.
 
Great thread, lots of info!

I'm waiting for these crank to arrive (it's a long way to Guadalajara):

Eagle ESP Cast Steel Crankshafts - Chevrolet 383 Cast Steel Crankshaft
3.750'' Stroke
1-Piece Rear Seal (Late Style)
External Balance - Use 400 Harmonic Balancer & Stock Flexplate
1870 Bobweight
Item # 356-103523750

My question is; should I have to get it balanced to use the vette's stock damper? or how do I move my accessories belt with that "400 Harmonic Balancer"? . I saw an "LT1 Harmonic Balancer" in Jeg's but it costs almost double than the cranck itself!!! :confused If I rob a bank and buy one of those things, should I need to get it balanced anyway?

(my wallet is going south pretty fast :ugh )

Any ideas? this is the last stone in my road to 383!!! ;shrug
 
Yes you should have the whole rotating assy. balanced as a unit. Especially if you are mixing and matching parts (pistons, rods, harmonic balancer, ect.) You would need to take the pistons, piston pinsand retainers, rings, rods, rod bolts, harmonic balancer, crank, and flexplate or flywheel (depending on auto or standard) plus the flexplate bolts to a machine shop for balancing. They will basically assemble everything and use a balancing jig to find out where they need to take or put material for proper balance.


If you don't have it balanced it will probabally shake itself apart. Definately not what you want to do with all your new parts just think of the $$$$. Machine shops vary in their prices but I seem to remember about $150 for a balance job.

:w
 
I tried to copy a pals' motor, eventually

I was leaning towards a crate motor, but everytime I decided on which, Chevy changed their offerings. I also had Speed-O-Motive build my 406, but changed their (383) Sportsman engine by adding a hydraulic roller, wilder than theirs, using a 400 block and running TPI. The longer stroke really is great for the street and it happily pulls very strongly to fuel-shutoff at 6300rpm. It's real nice to be able to hit 2-overdrive at 75 mph on the E-way to totally bake a ricer or M-whatever!

My cam is too wild, according to many experts, to either idle properly or pass CA SMOG, but it does both nicely, thanks to many, many hour$ from two experts.

Why Chevy markets 'crates' with a carb is for specualtion (unless Hib knows). The 50-state SMOG certification is pricey and price prohibitive for low-production items. Any engine can run an infection setup.

I am starting to plan, with excellent, experienced help, a 383 based on my take-out L83. I will either use a modified Crossfire or a MiniRam; NOT the SuperRam. It'll be a father-son project for a '55 Effy.
:w
 
Hrtbeat1 said:
Yes you should have the whole rotating assy. balanced as a unit. Especially if you are mixing and matching parts (pistons, rods, harmonic balancer, ect.) You would need to take the pistons, piston pinsand retainers, rings, rods, rod bolts, harmonic balancer, crank, and flexplate or flywheel (depending on auto or standard) plus the flexplate bolts to a machine shop for balancing. They will basically assemble everything and use a balancing jig to find out where they need to take or put material for proper balance.


If you don't have it balanced it will probabally shake itself apart. Definately not what you want to do with all your new parts just think of the $$$$. Machine shops vary in their prices but I seem to remember about $150 for a balance job.

:w

Thanks for the advice, now I know for sure that you're right! I talked yesterday with a very nice guy in LA. He builds 1/4 mile engines over there and he is been doing it since 1983. He is from around here (Guadalajara, MX). He told me the same that you did and now the next week that my parts arrive to Laredo, Tx. The custom brocker is going to send them with this guy to get them balanced for $120.00-$240.00. He says it depends on how much weight they have to put on from some weird metal (I just can't remember the name).

He even told me he knows my vette from one of he's frequent visits to the local track! (there's not another c4 with the double big 4" tips Magnaflows down here :D )

It all is going to take around two weeks so it gaves me a little mor time to get more $ for the "little things" like gaskets, oil, spark plugs and things like that. I´m doing all the hand work by myself so hopefully it wil be finished by the first week of June. My best time was 13.5 w/street tires at 5100 ft altitude, so; ¿what could be a good guess with the new 383 set up?

My cam is too wild, according to many experts, to either idle properly or pass CA SMOG, but it does both nicely, thanks to many, many hour$ from two experts.

WhalePirot; what is the duration of your cam? I have a 224°/230° @ .050" 0.518"/0.536" (it suppose to be a Callaway S/N cam)


Thanks for the nice advice!

:w
 
87blackroxi said:
looking at 6 shooter's project, it seems like there is alot going on requiring alot of time. As I've never done engine work before i am going to have a mechanic do it (Robert?). But it is a long way away (my corvette money now goes towards an engagement ring). Once the ring is paid then the corvette fun begins again.

What do y'all think is more worthwhile? 383 stroker or getting a new bottom end and go for 427. This is considering price and having someone else do the work. any ballparks $$$?

I have an old tired 350 that was in my 60 vette...from the casting numbers on the block it is about a '73 motor from a Camaro. I took it to a local speed shop to get it completely rebuilt, along with getting the block painted, new pistons, a hotter cam, HEI, 600 double pumper, getting the Edelbrock manifold and valve covers cleaned up to look like new, a new aluminum water pump...was going to be about $3000, the shop for making a 383 stroker out of it was going to charge me an extra $600....that included different pistons along with the new crank and stuff.

The speed shop is well known in the area (northern Ohio), they make a lot of drag motors as well as circle track motors......I don't know if I am paying too much or not......but I know I will be satisfied when I go to start her back up in the 60 vette.....

good luck on your choice.....
 
firstgear,

That sounds like you're getting a pretty good deal! Looks like the extra $600 is basically going in to cover the extra cost of the 383 parts.

vettered91,

I'm sure if you were closer to sea level, you would be running in the high 12's. You're almost a mile high!:L
 

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