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How hot does your c4 run?

C4 temp.

:mad My 1987 Coupe used to run high temps. Bad radiator. Put in a new one, plus a 160 degree powerstat from hypertech and a manual switch from Mid America to turn on the fans manually. Later a hypertech thermomaster chip.
Now, with the A/C on at 40 - 55 mph the temp. runs to about 175 degrees on a hot day (90 + degrees). Stop an go traffic is another story. Temp usually gets up to 225 tops.
 
I have a '96 LT4 . Why do these car's temps move up and down so much. I have never owned a car that acts like this one. My wife drives a '95 Infiniti J-30 with a V6, and the temp guage stays right at the normal area after it warms up and never moves. My '96 Camaro (V6) works fine also. On the Vette, the other fan is supposed come on at 228 degress - and it does - why didn't they make it so it stayed on all the time? If your caught in traffic, that temp is constanly going up and down.
 
It might be that you're getting a more instant temperature reading with the digital dash? That's my best guess because the analog gauge on my Camry never moves past the normal operating point.
 
air deflector

I ripped the middle air dam off of my 85 one day and the car ran quite a bit hotter. Your solution lies in a 160 stat and a new computer chip. My 87 never gets above 185. That's with the big radiator (4+3) Might be a bit too cold though for your winter. My heater struggles on very cold days. (Convertible)

Everyday vetter

Vrotate
 
air deflector

Saw a 20 degree drop on my 84 just by "replacing" my "missing" center air damnand lower baffle.

Now I run around 175 highway... 195-204 in town, but must confess I've seen 210 on a 90+ degree day in traffic with AC on.
 
Anybody know what the normal running temps are for a '96 LT4 in the city and on the highway?
 
My LT4 ran in the 210-215 range when I first bought it (combo city and highway)

I got a 180 thermo and some water wetter, but that didn't help much, still around 210.

The hypertech programmer helped alot more, when I set the fans to come on at 193, this kept temps down between 195-200.

The most impacting thing I've done was remove the thermo alltogether, leaving the rubber "gasket" ring from the thermo in its place to keep the seal. Now the car NEVER goes above 190. It stays around 180 with very little fluxuation. This is in Maryland in 80-95 degree weather.
 
install a pusher fan to help out

Don't expect much change.

Geek's car runs a low temperature that I'd love to see. These cars are designed to run hotter than in the old days.

IMHO, it ain't broke, pal.

:w
 
Anyone ever see that water pump in Eckler's? I think it's a supposed "higher flow" pump and they claim your small block will run cooler with it.
 
I've got one of those sitting in my garage from a "package deal" of stuff I bought recently. Claims a 20-degree decrease in temps because of the larger pump and cooling fins around the housing. I'd recently installed a straight rebuilt GM pump so there's been no need to use this one - yet.
[RICHR]
 
On my 93 the temps are like in the 200-220 range at idle, the fan kicks on at 228 which I understand is correct. I was able to hose off the debris that had accumulated in the dead space between the A/C and radiator.

After my car reaches the 228 mark, the temp goes back down (because of the fan) but the car stumbles or acts like its missing. This happens with the A/C on or off. What might be causing this?
 
Check your egr valve. You can test by unplugging the vacum line to test. It will most likely throw a engine code but it will tell you if that is the problem.
 
Coolent temp

Correct me if I,m wrong but I thought on a 93 down the fan turn on was controlled by the sending unit not the computer like 94 up where you can reflash the computer. On my 91 all I did was the 160 thermo and it never gets over 180 no mater what?
 
The mechanic did diagnostics today and reported that the analog gauge is off but 10 or more degrees and that the digital readout is correct. He recommended changing the fuel filter first before looking at the spark plugs and wires. He was impressed that for a car with over 100,000 miles all the diagnostic tests showed no problems with the radiator flow, the injectors, etc. They did run it through 10 heat/cool cycles and the fans came on like they were suppose to...... So I will let you all know what the final verdict is......
 
I really don't care at what temperature the fans go on. Anything electric can go wrong. Why don't you try Mid America's manual fan swith. It costs less than $20 and enables you to switch one or both fans at will. So you don't have to rely on either the computer or a temp switch to turn them on. It is easy to install under one hour. Try it, you'l like it.
 

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