Question: How is the 64 Radiator held in place?

[Toy4Hal]

My first time playing with a mid year. Helping some kids get their parents 64 Convertible running after sitting idle for 10 years. I just removed the radiator from the car. Before I started the radiator seemed "loose" in place. There was a bracket over the top holding it within the core support and the shroud, but I could easily move the radiator 1/2" or so up, or back and forth while in place. I did need to take the shroud off to get the lower hose connection clear. But it seemed strange that the radiator was so loose. Could I be missing some parts that hold the rad more secure? What about the bottom? Are there supposed to be protruding "pins" with rubber bushings to hold the base to the core (like in a 62?). This radiator, which looks to be original by the way, did not have those "pins". Just a flat bottom. Can anyone help me understand what this should be like? Any detail pictures that can be shared which might show me the way it is held in place on top, side, and/or bottom? I do have the assembly manual on the way but trying to get started.

Thanks in advance. Hal

 

[Bill Wilhelm]

Hal, From your description, you have a replacement rad. There should be pins surounded by a rubber bushing that fit into matching holes in the bottem rad support. On the top you are missing a "U" shaped rubber bushing that fits into the top brace. Order a Long Island catalog and you will have excellent pictures as well as a source for what you need. Other dealers can also supply what you need, LICS just has a better catalog. Bill

 

[Rex S]

Get the book on CD as well. Then you can run off a copy of what ever sheet you need and not get a printed book filthy. They take up a lot less space too.

 

[Toy4Hal]

Upon further review..............

Looking at the old rad in the day time showed me that the 2 bottom "pins" were in place. However, the rubber bushings were not there, neither on the bottom or top, which is why the rad was loose in place. The rad is confirmed original based on the data on the top left of the unit. However, now pressure tested, it has major leaks, especially where it appeared rotted near the bottom. Also other leaks near the top. Time for a new one.

The owners will have to decide if they want to spend the $900 for a true Harrison replacement or some alternative aluminum "look-a-like"! I also have to go back and look at the base of the existing core support so see what condition it is in because I don't recall seeing the holes into which the rad would sit.

Thanks for the data. I was not aware of Long island as a source. I'll look them up on line.

Thanks again. Hal

 

[JohnZ]

The owners will have to decide if they want to spend the $900 for a true Harrison replacement or some alternative aluminum "look-a-like"!

The only solution that will satisfy the customer and avoid you having to deal with a "come-back" for overheating is a DeWitt's radiator. The reproduction Harrison aluminum stacked-plate radiator (exact duplicate of the original) is the best, and they also have a conventional aluminum "direct-fit" (A63M) for about $250 less. You don't want a copper/brass "look-alike" replacement - they have about 30% less cooling capacity than the "direct-fit", and 40% less than the reproduction.

 

[Toy4Hal]

John, based on the other parts of the car showing as quite original, I agree with you. Thanks. Hal

 

[Toy4Hal]

Going to buy the right radiator!

The family have decided they will buy the correct, date coded, radiator for this car. I support this decision. So, I want to get it right for them, and need your help.

The car is a 64 Convertible. VIN is 40867S102502 . Can I get help with what should be the most correct date code for this radiator?

Thank you! Hal

 

[Subfixer]

The Birthdate calculator on the C2 Registry puts the manufacture date at 10 Oct 1963 (12 days before mine).

The Corvette C2 Registry

 

[Toy4Hal]

Thanks. That early date sure limits the availability of used date coded parts for the car. I guess the correct month for the radator would be September (I)? Hal

 

[JohnZ]

Thanks. That early date sure limits the availability of used date coded parts for the car. I guess the correct month for the radator would be September (I)? Hal

Nope. September would be "J" (the "I" character was skipped in stamped date codes).

 

[Toy4Hal]

Thanks again!!! Hal